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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
First time posting.
I recently purchased a 327 LCR. I love everything about it but Buffalo Bore 327 cases stick like glue.
I have seen recommendations to polish the cylinder with a dremel tool.
Crazy? Good idea? Better left to a gunsmith?

Thanks in advance.
 

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I would like the answer to that also. In my case it is an LCR 22lr. I am thinking a bore mop with some kind of polishing compound. Toothpaste might even work.
Not toothpaste , the polishing agents aren't of a consistent size ...some larger than other ...it does a poor job as metal polish .
JB Bore Cleaning Compound or automotive Car Rubbing Compound or Car Polishing Compound as made by Turtle Wax . The car rubbing and polishing compounds are used to finish a custom paint job ... they have a uniform consistency . The rubbing compound is a bit more aggressive than the polishing compound . I have both , step #1 = rubbing compond . Step #2 = polishing compound . JB Bore Cleaning Compound texture is in between , not as fine as polishing compound but not as rough as rubbing compound .

Automotive valve grinding and lapping compounds are good ...you wont need coarse , you want to polish not enlarge the chambers .
I use a old brass brush, undersized , wrapped with a cloth patch to make snug fit and smeared with polishing compound ...in a dremel tool ...don't run fast . This is the tricky part , go slow inspect often and get a uniform polishing job from back to front ,
Once the metal is gone ...it's gone !

DO Not use Comet or any type cleansing abrasive scrubber ...it does a rough job and you will not be a happy camper .
Gary
 

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I've polished the chambers of a number of my revolvers. It really helps. A tight patch with JB Bore Paste works wonders. On my 617 ( 22 LR ) I bought a cylinder reamer from Brownell's. It eliminated all sticky cases.

Something else, it could just be your brass. Some brands will stick and others will fall right out. On my 929 I can't use anything but Winchester brass. It comes out nice and fast. Starline will stick really bad. Try another brand of ammo and see how that works for you.
 

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A tight patch with JB Bore Paste works wonders.
This is my preferred method. A rod and a jag allow maximum control. I start with a standard patch with some JBs wiped around the sides and give each chamber 15-20 strokes. Then I remove the patch, add a layer of paper towel, and place the patch back over top. Repeat until the fit is nice and tight and the jag strokes very smoothly.

Wipe out each chamber and hold it at an angle to a bright light. Rotate and verify that each chamber shines bright throughout. When they do - you're done.

I use the same technique for cleaning except I substitute penetrating oil for the JBs. After a couple cleanings, the chambers wipe clean easily and brass never even thinks about sticking. I think the oil embeds itself into the pores of the steel.
 
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Best advice is to not overdo it, you can't undo it. I had to polish the chambers of a High Standard Sentinel. In this case, I had a light rusty film in the chambers from previous owner neglect. Used Flitz polish on a .22 mop screwed in the front piece of a two piece rod so I could chuck it in a variable speed drill. Ran it as slow as it would go, and about six slow strokes per chamber. Cleaned them and put a swab of Birchwood-Casey Super Blue through them. Next trip to range was good, just a little friction. Good enough.
 
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Why does everyone assume that polishing is the answer? What does the finish on the chambers look like? Measure the diameter of the spent cases. That number will be very close to the chamber diameter. Compare the measurement with Saami specs for chamber diameter. This is a classic example of insufficient finish reaming. Factory service.
Eor
 

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A dab of Mothers mag wheel polish on a round felt pad and your rotary tool will work wonders IMO. My 9mm 101 spent brass falls out just by tipping the gun up. Once in a while I might have to flick out a spent brass with a fingernail. I mildly polished all 5 cylinders in under 5 minutes.
 
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