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Grand Inquisitor
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Interesting outing with my CZ 75. I shot 50 rounds of Acme coated, and accuracy was fairly good for a guy still learning a new gun.

When I got home to clean the weapon I found moderate leading in the barrel. I ordered some Chore Boy all-copper scrubbers to clean it, because Hopepe’s number nine and a bore brush would not quite remove everything. Really doesn’t bother me.

But I am curious to know if anyone else shooting these polymer coated bullets has run into leading with their weapons? I reload them exclusively and have never had this problem before in my revolvers or 1911.
 

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I shoot a lot of Rogers better bullets (from Kings) never had a issue. I like the coated better then the lubed bullets I've gotten from other vendors. No smoke nice accuracy. And of course a good price. Shoot them in my revolers with no issues. On the semis I usually use extreme plated. Bill
 

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Interesting outing with my CZ 75. I shot 50 rounds of Acme coated, and accuracy was fairly good for a guy still learning a new gun.

When I got home to clean the weapon I found moderate leading in the barrel. I ordered some Chore Boy all-copper scrubbers to clean it, because Hopepe’s number nine and a bore brush would not quite remove everything. Really doesn’t bother me.

But I am curious to know if anyone else shooting these polymer coated bullets has run into leading with their weapons? I reload them exclusively and have never had this problem before in my revolvers or 1911.
How fast did you fire them? Is it possible a heated barrel contributed to the problem?
 

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Pull a bullet or two and see if you are breaking the coating. I thought I was getting leading when I first started using hi-tek coated bullets. I eventually went to a separate crimp operation to help avoid breaking through the coating. I use Bayou so I don't know what Acme is coated with or how. If you pull a bullet put a torch to it and see if it melts the bullet without direct lead exposure.
 
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CZ sometimes have a larger bore and many load .357 bullets. That said make sure you aren’t breaking the coating. Also if the bullet isn’t sealing gas could be cutting. A coated bullet needs proper obturation.
 

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The coating should prevent any leading . If the bullets are completely coated , no lead showing ... then it might be in the bullet seating and crimping stage where the coating is becoming scraped or cut . 9mm Luger and coated lead bullets are a match NOT made in heaven .
If the coating is damaged in loading ...try these tips.
1.) Use a Lyman M-Die to flare the case mouth and expand the case for the larger diameter of cast coated bullets .
2.) Make sure the bullet is set straight in the flared case mouth , crooked bullets get scraped when seated .
3.) Seat in one step ... then Crimp in a seperate step .
Keeping that soft coating intact needs special attention when loading ... I fought it for awhile and gave up on coated and now use a conventional lubricated cast 9mm bullet with a Gas Check ... the Gas Check has made all the difference in ease of loading for me . I don't hate Gas Checks like some do ...they work !
I cast & size & lube these GC bullets to .357" no coating .
Gary
 

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It is also possible that you are swaging down the base of your bullets. You need to use the proper expander die or this will happen. As Fixitagain said, pull one of your bullets and measure it.
There are some bullet manufacturers that advise against the use of a FCD for this reason.
 

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Grand Inquisitor
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
.try these tips.
1.) Use a Lyman M-Die to flare the case mouth and expand the case for the larger diameter of cast coated bullets .
2.) Make sure the bullet is set straight in the flared case mouth , crooked bullets get scraped when seated .
3.) Seat in one step ... then Crimp in a seperate step
Gary
Excellent advice. I loaded only 50 to test things. I suspect that I did not flare the case mouths enough. I do have the Lyman die-set.

All rounds worked in my case gauge, but the suggestion to pull one and measure sounds wise. More on that soon.

Leading seems confined to some skid-marks in the grooves. Lands all look fine.
 

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I used to pride myself in having very little case mouth expansion and be able to seat the bullet without shaving any lead. Now I overwork my brass and bell the case mouth excessively to make sure the coating is not disturbed. As I mentioned previously I seat and crimp in separate operations. 4 die pistol instead of 3.
 

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I'm aware of coated bullets but have never loaded any. I do shoot a lot of Copper Plated Bullets in my Handguns, and never experienced any leading. Now that the Price of plated Bullets is pretty close to actual Jacketed ones I just order Jacketed. I do shoot Lead Bullets in my Revolvers and use the tried and true Choreboy Method to de lead the Barrel.
 

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Excellent advice. I loaded only 50 to test things. I suspect that I did not flare the case mouths enough. I do have the Lyman die-set.

All rounds worked in my case gauge, but the suggestion to pull one and measure sounds wise. More on that soon.

Leading seems confined to some skid-marks in the grooves. Lands all look fine.
You don't have to get a whole die set, Lyman sells the "M" die separately in a variety of calibers and they are well worth adding for loading cast bullets of any kind (In my not always humble opinion).


Bruce
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
You don't have to get a whole die set, Lyman sells the "M" die separately in a variety of calibers and they are well worth adding for loading cast bullets of any kind (In my not always humble opinion).
I was mistaken. It is a taper-crimp die I want, so I have a Lee TC die on the way.

Crimping separately really helped with .357 rounds, where I use a Hornady roll-crimp die. The Lee die was not expensive so worth a go.

Thanks to all who replied.

The gun shoots a little high at SD range with its new tru-glo sights but is dead-on center. I am trying Grant Cunningham’s method of trigger control now in all my shooting, from his revolver book. Might account for high shots but ended my tendency to shoot low and left of target.
 

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Also some coated bullet manufacturers advise you to avoid certain powders like Titegroup. I use Titegroup when I can, Oh well
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Also some coated bullet manufacturers advise you to avoid certain powders like Titegroup. I use Titegroup when I can, Oh well
Acme has no warnings about powder, and it is a light load of HP38. The powder variable may be what caused the problem, since it is the first time that I have loaded with HP38. But the simpler explanation would be my not expanding the case mouths enough or over crimping.

The bullets measure .356” and sadly I have no unfired rounds left To pull and measure. The plan will be to load 50 more, expanding the case mouth a little more, then seat and taper-crimp in two steps. If I see more lead, I will try a different powder with these bullets.
 

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Acme uses Hi-Tek coating as do a few other bullet makers. I have used 3 different manufactuers Hi-Tek coated bullets and they act the same. In my Blackhawk I do get a tiny amount of leading in the edge of the grooves about a half inch up at most. However the mouths of my cylinder are .3565 and the bullets are .358 so they're being swaged down. If the leading was more than a tiny amount I'd have the cylinders reamed to .358 or .359. Accuracy is 1 3/8" at 25 yards with a warm barrel with my current bullets.
 
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