[seniorxj]

I'm trying to fit a smaller LED light on the front rail of my Ruger SR9 so it doesn't stick out past the muzzle & I noticed that the only way to do this is if there were more slots to move a compact light back some.

So has anyone made another slot on the front rail say using a dremel tool for something like this? (Ive seen it done before on the SR9 but cant find it)

Thanks!

 

[Watcher]

Most pistol lights will stick out past the muzzles of most pistols.

Unless you have a 5" barrel like a M&P45 or 1911 or something I don't think it's quite doable.
It's not going to hurt the light. Even though it's forward of the muzzle it doesn't really catch a shock-wave or anything, just gonna get a bit dirty.

 

[seniorxj]

I'm trying to make the light as compact as possible by moving it back. There is more room for the light to be pushed back but no notches for it to mount to.

Your talking about something very different then what im asking.

 

[Watcher]

I see. I just figured you were uncomfortable with the light sticking out past the muzzle.


I'd suggest using a mill or mill-table for a drill-press, if you have access to either.
You can find a small end-mill that's the size of the slot, set the machine to the correct depth and spacing, and cut in the slot in one pass. All that'd be left is cleaning up the edges with a file.

I wouldn't suggest doing it by hand, you'll bubba the frame and it'll probably be a hassle replacing it since Ruger serial numbers the frame...
Might be worth going to a local machine shop and seeing what they'd quote you for it. Wouldn't be more than $50 if I guess right. A skilled machinist could have it done in minutes given there's an open machine with a simple vice in it...

 

[mndoggie]

I see. I just figured you were uncomfortable with the light sticking out past the muzzle.


I'd suggest using a mill or mill-table for a drill-press, if you have access to either.
You can find a small end-mill that's the size of the slot, set the machine to the correct depth and spacing, and cut in the slot in one pass. All that'd be left is cleaning up the edges with a file.

I wouldn't suggest doing it by hand, you'll bubba the frame and it'll probably be a hassle replacing it since Ruger serial numbers the frame...Might be worth going to a local machine shop and seeing what they'd quote you for it. Wouldn't be more than $50 if I guess right. A skilled machinist could have it done in minutes given there's an open machine with a simple vice in it...

I wouldn't mess with removing much material from the frame at all. There is a lot of stress on the front part of the frame. Removing much will weaken it.

There was a high speed video posted once of one of the major manufacturers composite frames and it was amazing the amount of flex occurring in the lower frame when a shot was fired.