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Just got a Mark III 22/45. Field stripped and thoroughly cleaned and oiled. When I replace mainspring everything lines up, however, when I complete the process the bolt will not pull back. There is also no tension when I press the mainspring back into handle, again, everything is lined up and tilted to make sure hammer assembly freefloating piece is lined up with the mainspring. When I release the mainspring to redo the bolt will release and pull back. I have stripped and reassembled several times with the same result. Please help and thank you in advance!
 

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Do you pull (and hold) the trigger and point it up before swinging in the mainspring housing? It is a little step left out of the MkII manuals, but clearly shown in the videos on Ruger's website for MkIII re-assembly.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
sure did, watched pretty much all of the videos on this and not one had this problem. Hoping for help here. Otherwise I'm bring it back. Never had this trouble with my SR9 (or my Beretta FS92). Thanks Eastman
 

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Thanks Rally! It was better than the others but even with everything lined up, still nothing. Just stripped again and even with the barrel off I redo all steps and the bolt is not sliding back in the mainspring locked position. I can't tell any difference in the parts I see and what's making it freeze up. I appreciate your help! Any other suggestions?
 

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Trick I found on one of the forums. When you go to close the mainspring housing make sure there is spring tension before you latch it. It should push back some if every thing's installed correctly. It's not going to work if there's no tension.
 

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jenns10369, Your hammer strut is stuck on the sear spring cross pin and is keeping the bolt from moving. Take it apart again. Make sure the hammer is all the way back so you can fully insert the bolt. Insert a magazine, then release the hammer by pulling the trigger. Use a tool such as a pencil to push the hammer fully forward. Note the hammer strut that hangs down and the cross pin that secures the sear spring. The hammer strut will get stuck on the cross pin if you don't hold the muzzle straight up. Insert the mainspring housing pin fully into position. As you swing the mainspring housing in, make sure the hammer strut finds the divot in the top of the housing for the mainspring. As you close the mainspring housing, you should feel a little spring tension just before it seats. If you don't feel spring tension, it means the hammer strut fell out of place. If you do feel spring tension when the mainspring housing is almost closed, pushed it the rest of the way closed and latch it in place with the "pocket knife" latch. It will now operate as designed.
 

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22/45's don't have a frame crosspin. The looped end of the sear spring is secured in a pocket inside the plastic frame.

If the MSH can be reopened again then the hammer is not going under mainspring tension, this leads me to think that the hammer strut may be slipping off of the mainspring cap at the last second, just as the housing is closing and then the strut is getting pinched in between the frame and the MSH causing a jam.


R,
Bullseye
 

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Bullseye, You're right ... the OP just failed to seat the hammer strut into the mainspring pocket.
 

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That's happened to me several times. It's very frustrating to try and follow every step to the T and then something like this happens. The 22/45 is a great little shooter, but unfortunately it has an overly complicated field strip/assembly. I'm still keeping mine, but after you do it a couple of times it becomes more natural. Ps.....mine stays dirty. (it's a love/hate thing. I love shooting it just hate breaking it down) luckily these guys said it much better than I ever could
 

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Don't have a 22/45 but for my Marks before swinging the MHA into the grip I always hold the pistol with the barrel pointed straight up and tap the muzzle with a rubber mallet. This puts that little strut in proper position. You usually hear it drop. Than swing in the MHA making sure that there is spring pressure for the last little bit. Works 100%.
 

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Just got a Mark III 22/45. Field stripped and thoroughly cleaned and oiled. When I replace mainspring everything lines up, however, when I complete the process the bolt will not pull back. There is also no tension when I press the mainspring back into handle, again, everything is lined up and tilted to make sure hammer assembly freefloating piece is lined up with the mainspring. When I release the mainspring to redo the bolt will release and pull back. I have stripped and reassembled several times with the same result. Please help and thank you in advance!

No one mentioned it, I have had the same issue as you at first. Finally in frustration, I called Ruger. A great technical support lady told me to put her on speaker. I did and she patiently walked me through the process. It included smacking the muzzle of the pistol with a rubber mallet. and was as several other poster mentioned was the strut not dropping properly into the mainspring. I sympathize with you and feel your pain that is must be something else (it isn't) . having Ruger by your side will help and costs nothing but some of your time.
Good luck!
 

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Trick I found on one of the forums. When you go to close the mainspring housing make sure there is spring tension before you latch it. It should push back some if every thing's installed correctly. It's not going to work if there's no tension.
Exactly right. If there is no spring tension, swing out the mainspring housing, point the gun in the air and whack the muzzle with a nylon or rubber mallet. You will likely hear that little hammer strut drop. Then re-insert the mainspring housing, making sure that the spring tension is there the last little bit of swinging it in. The gun will now function properly.

Works 100% of the time.
 

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If you look into the hole in the rear of the gun before you slide the bolt in, there is a little dangly thing, which I believe is called a hammer strut, that has a tendency sometimes to get "trapped". It should be loose and dangly before you slide the bolt. There all manners of ways to make this happen, like pointing the muzzle upwards and so on, but all that really matters is that little piece of metal be free moving and not in a bind or trapped. Sorry for my imprecise language
 

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If you look into the hole in the rear of the gun before you slide the bolt in, there is a little dangly thing, which I believe is called a hammer strut, that has a tendency sometimes to get "trapped". It should be loose and dangly before you slide the bolt. There all manners of ways to make this happen, like pointing the muzzle upwards and so on, but all that really matters is that little piece of metal be free moving and not in a bind or trapped. Sorry for my imprecise language
+1 what RandyH said...
 

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Oh well,just about when I get ready to field strip my Mark 111 competition you all change my mind. I'll do it one day but not now,got to get my nerve up again. But thanks for all your information I'm learning.
 

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Oh well,just about when I get ready to field strip my Mark 111 competition you all change my mind. I'll do it one day but not now,got to get my nerve up again. But thanks for all your information I'm learning.
Once you get the hang of it it is easy and kind of fun to strip the Mark pistols. It is a skill worth having. Most of us spent one evening cursing before mastering this skill. I wish there were a physical place where I could teach a class on it because an in-person class would be a much better way to explain it than writing about it.

There are some great You-Tube videos on the subject.

Tip: just before swinging the Mainspring Housing Assembly into the grip (at the end of the reassembly process) hold the muzzle pointing straight up and whack the muzzle with a rubber mallet. This will ensure that the hammer strut is in position. You will know that such is the case when you feel spring tension for the last little bit when you swing the MHA into the grip.
 
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