Ruger Forum banner

1 - 20 of 25 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I have recently purchase a Bushnell boresighter and wondered if there is a way to remove the flash suppressor so that I can get the arbor into the barrel far enough to contact the shoulder of the arbor to the barrel
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
370 Posts
Welcome to the Forum. That should be a 3/4 open end wrench. The only new model with a flash hider is the Tactical, just clamp it down or have someone hold the gun to break it loose. Righty tighty, lefty loosee.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,205 Posts
Tenneessee, welcome to the forum. Remove as Misfire said. Some flash hiders are on pretty snug, and if Loctite was involved, some moderate heat will loosen the Loctite.
I ended up buying laser cartridges made by Sightmark for my Mini-14 and Mini-30. They only cost around $20. You insert the batteries in the base of the cartridge, load into the chamber like a real round, and you have the laser shining out your muzzle.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
370 Posts
sandog , good call on the cartridge boar sighter . I have one of those but have not used it since I bought a Site Lite mag lazer boarsighter. www.sitelite-lazers.com These are the best boarsighters on the market but there not cheap. I will have to get some new batteries for my cartridge boarsighter as mine are dead.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
46 Posts
I have a question - what suggestion do any of you have for a series 583 Mini-30 flash suppressor in stainless? Is there a particular brand recommended?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,205 Posts
You are not going to have as large a selection to choose from if you have to have one in stainless. Two of the best are the Smith Enterprise Vortex and the Yankee Hill Phantom.
But they are not available in stainless. About the only ones offered in stainless that I know of are the Choate. Or the Ramline/Black Warrior/John Masen, which all look to be the from the same Chinese maker, just sold under different names. And both of those are not screw on, they secure with a roll pin or roll pins.
I kind of like having the flash hider being blued on a stainless gun, along with the blued sights, it gives some nice contrast. Misfire 51 had a spare Ruger flash hider taken off a friend's Mini-30, so I used that after I threaded the barrel. I ended up Cerakoting the flash hider grey to go with the rest of the Mini-30, so that contrast thing went out the window.
You could also use a standard A2 flash hider, I know someone makes a .30 cal version, as I had one on a Colt AR in 7.62 x 39.
Second pic is an A2 flash hider on my Mini-14 before it was Cerakoted.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
46 Posts
Thanks sandog (again), very helpful information, as usual. If I went with the Smith or the Vortex it sounds like I'll have to get the barrel threaded?
Do you have any experience with the Choate/Ramline? From what I've been reading, it sounds like it's not that easy to install. It seems to have mixed reviews.
One last question, can I just purchase Cerakote in a spray paint or do I have to send it out to somebody?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,205 Posts
Sorry, crkennedy, for some reason I thought you had a barrel that was threaded already.
I used a Choate on my wood stocked Mini-30. They are nice and reasonably priced.
The blade on the front sight is a little thinner than the Ruger winged front sight ( .070" vs. .080"). If you are going to re-finish (Cerakote, Duracoat, etc.) anyway, you can thin the front blade a little more, to .055".
I ended up cutting an inch off my barrel before installing the Choate, as I was afraid the old roll pin slot would show behind the new sight. Shortening the barrel, and improving the crown also helps accuracy on the older Mini's.
Installing the Choate was easy, as I used a friend's Sherline machine ( hobby vertical milling machine) to drill for the new pin slots. You should also be able to use a drill press, just make sure the rifle is not canted when drilling. Doing the job free hand with a drill would be much harder.
You will need to ensure that the sight/flash hider unit is perfectly vertical before drilling the roll pin slots. You don't want to go ahead and drill, then find out at the range that the sight is slightly canted, and you have to use up all the windage of your rear sight to get zeroed.
What I did was put the Choate on, and eyeball it as close as possible to get it at 12 o'clock. Then tighten down the set screw under the unit to make a mark on the underside of your barrel. Remove the Choate, and drill a small dimple in the barrel where the mark is, put the Choate back on and re-tighten the set screw into the dimple you just made.
The set screw tightened into the dimple will allow you to go to the range and shoot some rounds to see if your Choate is straight enough, or is canted slightly. You won't get many rounds fired before the set screw is pushed out of the dimple, and the front sight/flash hider is blown off the end of the barrel.
Mine seemed like it was right on windage wise, but I was having fun shooting and shot some more. At about round 22, the Choate blew off the end of the barrel. At least I knew the location of my dimple was the correct spot.
After going home and drilling the two roll pin slots and driving the roll pins home, I ground the ends of the roll pins smooth, and put some touch up blue on the ends.
Pics of the Choate:



Cerakote is for sure the most durable finish as far as paints, but it does not come in a spray can. You have to have a sprayer hooked to an air compressor, I use a $30 sprayer from Brownell's that works fine.
You can get Duracoat or Brownell's bake on lacquer in a spray can, they turn out a decent finish, just won't be as long lasting as Cerakote, before needing touch up here and there.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
46 Posts
Thanks for the installation detail! I may not paint it after all and just give the contrast of the stainless barrel and blued flash hider.
Since I have your attention, I have another question. Sine this mini-30 is a new series 583, what are your thoughts about installing a mo-rod? I noticed that they make one specifically for the new mini-30. Do you think it will make enough of a difference in tightening the pattern?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,205 Posts
The Mo-Rod might help accuracy and vertical stringing a little, it will help more with diffusing heat from the barrel. Go for the Mo-Rod if you like it. Most of us prefer the original, the Accustrut. Much better looking IMO, the clamps aren't as blocky looking as the Mo-Rod. And the stainless finish version of the Accustrut is a perfect match to the stainless Mini.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
46 Posts
I got an Accustrut for my older series 182 mini-14, and I do really like it. Why I asked about the mo-rod was mainly because it sounded to me, after reading Accustrut's description of their installation for a new tapered barrel version of the mini, vs the mo-rod's description, like the mo-rod would be a better, more custom fit. Perhaps I am wrong making that assumption.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
763 Posts
I've got a SOCOM length Accu-Strut on my 583 series Ranch Rifle and it fits perfectly.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
46 Posts
The single clamp strut on my Mini pics above is the Accustrut Socom.
Sandog, looking at your pic, by installing the Socom, it's shorter than the standard Accustrut with only one clamp and thus avoid clamping it to the tapered portion of the new style barrel? Makes sense.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,205 Posts
Yes. My two Mini=30's despite being older ones, have a .625" barrel, where older Mini-14's had the .560" "pencil barrel". So I figured the single clamp model would be sufficient. The shorter Socom w/ single clamp is better looking IMO.
I suppose you could use the two clamp model on your tapered barrel and just put the back clamp forward of the taper. The single clamp one would be enough on your heavier barrel Mini though.
Regardless of which one you choose, do the 'dimple option", as outlined in the instructions that come with the clamp. It really ties the whole unit into the gas block and makes the strut more effective.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
46 Posts
Will do. I had my gunsmith install the last one on my Mini-14, and it really has made a difference at the range. As a reminder, here's how it looks:




As for the flash suppressor, I'm thinking I'll go with Choate, as I'm not quite ready to have the barrel threaded. How difficult was it to install on your Mini-30?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,205 Posts
Not hard to do. Read my reply #9 above as to how to ensure it is on straight before drilling. That Ruger steel is hard, go buy a new Cobalt bit ( or two ) for the project.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
46 Posts
Daaa, sorry you already did answer that question. Frankly, I'm a bit torn what to do with the flash suppressor. I was in the gun shop talking about it with the guy behind the counter, and he was adamant that I get the barrel threaded so that I can have future use of a silencer... That makes sense too. Decisions, decisions.
 
1 - 20 of 25 Posts
Top