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I have some personal experience with wooden and syn stocks for the Mini-14, M1 Garand, and the M1A.
I've bedded wooden stocks for the M1, Mini-14, and M1A.
I've bedded some syn stocks for same rifles.
A little background:
In most instances, when re-inserting the Trigger Group into a wooden stock, the user should begin to feel resistance about 1/2" or so prior to the rear of the trigger guard locking-in to the slot for it on the trigger guard housing.
If the wooden stock is very old, the wood may be compressed, and such resistance not felt at all. This means the receiver is not being properly vertically clamped.
The solution to this problem is either to "steam" the wood in the compressed areas in order to "raise" it, or "bed" the receiver and trigger group into the stock. Both alternatives will require re-finishing of the wooden stock.
In any event, the stock may need to be re-steamed in the future and/or the bedding removed and replaced.
In some cases, a well-made (properly dimensioned) syn stock will show "closing resistance" at much less than the 1/2" specified for the GI wooden stock. This is "normal" for a well-dimensioned syn stock. If inadequate vertical clamping is suspected, using thin shims in the suspect areas will likely reveal the problem, with improved accuracy being the result of such shimming.
In the event that a syn stock is "not" properly dimensioned in the vertical plane, then bedding is the solution.
Horizontal movement is usually best addressed (regardless of type of stock) by careful shimming.
I like the look and feel of wooden stocks as much as the next guy. I have a "Max-Dimension" walnut stock for my Super-Match M1A, bedded by experts at Springfield Armory. It shoots about as well as my (unmodified) USGI fiberglass M-14 stock but weighs a lot more.
One of the many reasons why I prefer syn stocks is because a properly dimensioned syn stock will not shift in dimensions over time/use, nor over even short-term humidity changes. In rare cases, if syn stock needs tweaking, such tweaks, if properly done, will last a very long time. Unlike a wooden stock, a plastic stock does not compress.
In addition, Syn stocks often have a hollow butt stock, into which an emergency cleaning kit, emergency spare parts, and emergency tools can be easily installed, and always with the rifle if needed, and at User's option. Yes, added weight, but with some users employing forward-mounted optics, the added weight at rear of the rifle serves to maintain the OEM muzzle-light center of balance of the Mini.
M1s and M1As were designed to have a buttstock cleaning kit. Aside from the utility of such, the added rearwards mass made the GI rifles a bit "livelier" at the muzzle (than without such) and provided some recoil-damping mass.
All my (nearly) unused wooden stocks are stored, wrapped in plastic to preserve them. If rifles are sold, the nearly new wooden stocks go with them, adding to the asking-price. If times get tough, I'll sell off the near new wooden stocks.
There may be some folks who dislike the black color of syn stocks, and I understand. It is certainly possible to paint syn stocks to mimic the color of natural wood, at as least as seen from a reasonable distance.
There is a significant tip I have for users of wooden stocked rifles, such as the Mini, M1, and M1A.
Back in the day when Match shooters used (some of) these rifles, the "Trick" was to store the rifle with the trigger group installed but NOT latched. NOT latching the trigger group reduced the rate of inevitable wood/bedding compression.
I apologize for what might seem to be a rant and look forward to productive comments.
I've bedded wooden stocks for the M1, Mini-14, and M1A.
I've bedded some syn stocks for same rifles.
A little background:
In most instances, when re-inserting the Trigger Group into a wooden stock, the user should begin to feel resistance about 1/2" or so prior to the rear of the trigger guard locking-in to the slot for it on the trigger guard housing.
If the wooden stock is very old, the wood may be compressed, and such resistance not felt at all. This means the receiver is not being properly vertically clamped.
The solution to this problem is either to "steam" the wood in the compressed areas in order to "raise" it, or "bed" the receiver and trigger group into the stock. Both alternatives will require re-finishing of the wooden stock.
In any event, the stock may need to be re-steamed in the future and/or the bedding removed and replaced.
In some cases, a well-made (properly dimensioned) syn stock will show "closing resistance" at much less than the 1/2" specified for the GI wooden stock. This is "normal" for a well-dimensioned syn stock. If inadequate vertical clamping is suspected, using thin shims in the suspect areas will likely reveal the problem, with improved accuracy being the result of such shimming.
In the event that a syn stock is "not" properly dimensioned in the vertical plane, then bedding is the solution.
Horizontal movement is usually best addressed (regardless of type of stock) by careful shimming.
I like the look and feel of wooden stocks as much as the next guy. I have a "Max-Dimension" walnut stock for my Super-Match M1A, bedded by experts at Springfield Armory. It shoots about as well as my (unmodified) USGI fiberglass M-14 stock but weighs a lot more.
One of the many reasons why I prefer syn stocks is because a properly dimensioned syn stock will not shift in dimensions over time/use, nor over even short-term humidity changes. In rare cases, if syn stock needs tweaking, such tweaks, if properly done, will last a very long time. Unlike a wooden stock, a plastic stock does not compress.
In addition, Syn stocks often have a hollow butt stock, into which an emergency cleaning kit, emergency spare parts, and emergency tools can be easily installed, and always with the rifle if needed, and at User's option. Yes, added weight, but with some users employing forward-mounted optics, the added weight at rear of the rifle serves to maintain the OEM muzzle-light center of balance of the Mini.
M1s and M1As were designed to have a buttstock cleaning kit. Aside from the utility of such, the added rearwards mass made the GI rifles a bit "livelier" at the muzzle (than without such) and provided some recoil-damping mass.
All my (nearly) unused wooden stocks are stored, wrapped in plastic to preserve them. If rifles are sold, the nearly new wooden stocks go with them, adding to the asking-price. If times get tough, I'll sell off the near new wooden stocks.
There may be some folks who dislike the black color of syn stocks, and I understand. It is certainly possible to paint syn stocks to mimic the color of natural wood, at as least as seen from a reasonable distance.
There is a significant tip I have for users of wooden stocked rifles, such as the Mini, M1, and M1A.
Back in the day when Match shooters used (some of) these rifles, the "Trick" was to store the rifle with the trigger group installed but NOT latched. NOT latching the trigger group reduced the rate of inevitable wood/bedding compression.
I apologize for what might seem to be a rant and look forward to productive comments.