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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I have some personal experience with wooden and syn stocks for the Mini-14, M1 Garand, and the M1A.

I've bedded wooden stocks for the M1, Mini-14, and M1A.

I've bedded some syn stocks for same rifles.

A little background:

In most instances, when re-inserting the Trigger Group into a wooden stock, the user should begin to feel resistance about 1/2" or so prior to the rear of the trigger guard locking-in to the slot for it on the trigger guard housing.

If the wooden stock is very old, the wood may be compressed, and such resistance not felt at all. This means the receiver is not being properly vertically clamped.

The solution to this problem is either to "steam" the wood in the compressed areas in order to "raise" it, or "bed" the receiver and trigger group into the stock. Both alternatives will require re-finishing of the wooden stock.

In any event, the stock may need to be re-steamed in the future and/or the bedding removed and replaced.

In some cases, a well-made (properly dimensioned) syn stock will show "closing resistance" at much less than the 1/2" specified for the GI wooden stock. This is "normal" for a well-dimensioned syn stock. If inadequate vertical clamping is suspected, using thin shims in the suspect areas will likely reveal the problem, with improved accuracy being the result of such shimming.

In the event that a syn stock is "not" properly dimensioned in the vertical plane, then bedding is the solution.

Horizontal movement is usually best addressed (regardless of type of stock) by careful shimming.

I like the look and feel of wooden stocks as much as the next guy. I have a "Max-Dimension" walnut stock for my Super-Match M1A, bedded by experts at Springfield Armory. It shoots about as well as my (unmodified) USGI fiberglass M-14 stock but weighs a lot more.

One of the many reasons why I prefer syn stocks is because a properly dimensioned syn stock will not shift in dimensions over time/use, nor over even short-term humidity changes. In rare cases, if syn stock needs tweaking, such tweaks, if properly done, will last a very long time. Unlike a wooden stock, a plastic stock does not compress.

In addition, Syn stocks often have a hollow butt stock, into which an emergency cleaning kit, emergency spare parts, and emergency tools can be easily installed, and always with the rifle if needed, and at User's option. Yes, added weight, but with some users employing forward-mounted optics, the added weight at rear of the rifle serves to maintain the OEM muzzle-light center of balance of the Mini.

M1s and M1As were designed to have a buttstock cleaning kit. Aside from the utility of such, the added rearwards mass made the GI rifles a bit "livelier" at the muzzle (than without such) and provided some recoil-damping mass.

All my (nearly) unused wooden stocks are stored, wrapped in plastic to preserve them. If rifles are sold, the nearly new wooden stocks go with them, adding to the asking-price. If times get tough, I'll sell off the near new wooden stocks.

There may be some folks who dislike the black color of syn stocks, and I understand. It is certainly possible to paint syn stocks to mimic the color of natural wood, at as least as seen from a reasonable distance.

There is a significant tip I have for users of wooden stocked rifles, such as the Mini, M1, and M1A.
Back in the day when Match shooters used (some of) these rifles, the "Trick" was to store the rifle with the trigger group installed but NOT latched. NOT latching the trigger group reduced the rate of inevitable wood/bedding compression.

I apologize for what might seem to be a rant and look forward to productive comments.
 

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I have a Mini30 with a synthetic stock and am very happy with it. I didn't buy the Mini as a show piece. It has pressed in checkering which would seem to be far inferior to checkering on wood but that isn't the case. The pressed in checkering gives you a good purchase on both the fore end and grip. Don
 

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An informative post. I have a M1a, M1, & a M1 Carbine with walnut stocks, & they all shoot great, & look great. I love the look of a nice walnut stock. I also have an older model 10 22 with a laminated stock, & a Mini 14 with a polymer stock, & they shoot great also. From the practical standpoint, the synthetics are prob the best bet, but the wood is a head turner for me.
 

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I've warmed up to synthetic stocks over the years, but I haven't noticed any difference in performance between wood and synthetic.

At this writing my 189 Series Mini-30 is wearing its original wood furniture from 1989. It shoots well in all seasons. Storing the rifle with the trigger group popped is sound advice with something like a bedded match M1A rifle that you use for match shooting and store for great lengths of time between matches.

Maybe not such a good Idea for a Mini-14 or Mini-30 if it's your primary go-to HD/SD weapon when things go bump in the night. I also store my Mini-30 with hammer down, which is tricky to do with the trigger guard popped. Anyway, you can picture that scene... trying to pop your trigger guard all the way closed, still half asleep after hearing someone kick in your front door.

I picked up a Ruger factory black synth stock sometime ago because I got a great deal on it. It may end up on that second 189 Series Mini-30 I've been looking for, but haven't found yet. Prices will have to come down before I start looking again.

All of my long guns are sporting wood, including my 18" barrel HD/SD Remington 870 12 GA Magnum shotgun, and my CZ USA 527 American in 7.62x39. The later has a beautiful wood stock with a free-floating barrel, and is quite the tack driver. You can get syn stocks for the CZs, and I'm sure it would shoot just as well, and look just as good, but in a syn stock looking good sort of way.
 

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I'll put myself in to the wood and steel group. The thick heavy barrel on my 583 series 30 Tactical had the rifle front heavy with the OEM synthetic stock. The 189 series wood stock and Numrich 'head knocker" steel butt plate balanced out the rifle nicely. A bit heavy at 7 pounds 3 ounces with an empty 5 round mag but not outrageous. The 7.62x39mm needs a little weight to mitigate the recoil.

I'll acknowledge some of the benefits of synthetic but the trade off for me is a non factor.

Bepe
Wood Hardwood Trigger Varnish Air gun


Musical instrument Wood Musical instrument accessory Hardwood Wood stain
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I should add that wooden stocks in semi-perpetual dry climates don't exhibit nearly the moisture-induced swelling/warping than stocks used in much wetter climates display. It's also true that a user who takes the time to put a good, durable finish on their wooden stock, both inside and out, will encounter fewer problems due to moisture.

Still, there is the ongoing--and cumulative-- issue of wood compression. I concur that a rifle intended to be an immediate-use home defense weapon should always be ready to go.

I understand the attraction of wood, and to each his own, of course. I am not so arrogant that I believe my way is the only acceptable way, and if my post even hinted at such, I apologize, as such was not my intent.
 

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The look of wood seems to have always drawn me in more. I will say the current OEM Mini-14 stock seems to have a different overall feel vs. the wood; so it's more than a material preference; I believe the LOP is even different. In my view the main advantage with the OEM polymer is that you don't have to worry about the stock reinforcement coming loose or oil/solvent/environment wreaking havoc on the wood.

Despite those advantages, and ignoring form & looks, I really despise how the OEM polymer stock flexes on the barrel end with only a minute amount of pressure from the hands.

I have what I would call the "three standard" stocks. OEM wood & polymer + the new stainless SAMSON ATM stock that Ruger collaborated with them on. They each tickle a different fancy, but the ATM stock is by far the most indulging on the eyes when a 30 round OEM magazine is screaming out the bottom.

All that said, if I had to go to war with this puppy, I'd probably rock the polymer stock with my stainless model for an "all-weather" advantage.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Length Of Pull preference is a legitimate concern. Some types of stocks are more allowing of changing the Length Of Pull than others.

Most users will find that a somewhat "short" stock is easier to use than one that is a bit too long, but always nice to have LOP correct in the first place.

There are ways to "reinforce" the fore-end of most stocks, but this always involved adding some weight, unfortunately.
 

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I should add that wooden stocks in semi-perpetual dry climates don't exhibit nearly the moisture-induced swelling/warping than stocks used in much wetter climates display. It's also true that a user who takes the time to put a good, durable finish on their wooden stock, both inside and out, will encounter fewer problems due to moisture.

Still, there is the ongoing--and cumulative-- issue of wood compression. I concur that a rifle intended to be an immediate-use home defense weapon should always be ready to go.

I understand the attraction of wood, and to each his own, of course. I am not so arrogant that I believe my way is the only acceptable way, and if my post even hinted at such, I apologize, as such was not my intent.
No arrogance taken on my end. Everyone likes what they like. It does seem like synthetic stocks are what gun manufacturers are offering these days. My stuff is kinda like a Micky Mantle rookie card. Some of it, if you don't have it, it's hard & expensive to get it. Aside from goin with durable, the pleasure a lot of us love in a firearm is the beauty of a rifle, & the wood just adds to it.
 

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Wood was the only practical material for rifle stocks until about fifty years ago. I'm almost 70 so a nice wood stock and blued or stainless actions are certainly beautiful and I own some. But as a practical matter, give me a good synthetic stock. Even better, modern synthetic stocks with metal pillars or aluminum bedding blocks. Good ones will be much stronger and more damage resistant than wood. Plus the action screws tend to not loosen much with use. And saying good bye to all the hassle of wood compression.

I have a Ruger Hawkeye African in 338 Win mag with a particularly nice piece of wood stock. I'm looking into a synthetic stock with an aluminum bed for regular shooting. You will hear stories of wood stocks cracking from magnum calibers. I have to check the action screw torque regularly. Be kind of nice to be able to blast away with this fun rifle without worrying about the stock!
 

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I know this is a Mini thread, but can't help but bring up its big brother, the M14 when discussing wood stocks.. Always interesting to see the wood stock M14s still used in modern warfare.

There are many M14 variations, most of them wearing synthetic stocks these days, but it's notable that you will still see a bare bones wood stock M14 being used by US Navy Seals and US Army Airborne. They brought them back out in Iraq and Afghanistan to reach out and touch the enemy where 5.56 NATO couldn't go. Whether wood or synthetic stock, these battle rifles were hand picked from the lot and fine tuned to be as close to natch grade level.as they can be.

Wood stock M14s are among the small arms used today as we speak in 2022, by Ukrainian defenders against Russian invaders. Wood is not just for looking good. It's still practical in many environments. Below is a photo from this year of a Ukrainian sharp shooter/sniper all dressed up with a wood stock M14 to put the hurt on Putin's henchmen.

Camouflage Military camouflage Machine gun Marines Military person
 

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I prefer wood 90% of the time.
That other 10% is camping / prospecting / exploring in rough, rocky and thorny country, and there is a lot of that in Arizona. For that I'll take the syn stock out.

My wood stock Mini-30 (Maggie) has a different feel than the synthetic stocked one (Sasha).
She has more of a service rifle - Garand/M1A feel .
The extra 10-11 ounces of weight of the wood changes the recoil somewhat. It seems milder, although on other guns it's the synthetic stock that seems to dampen recoil a bit more so than wood.
And when shooting Maggie, even with ear pro, I can hear (and feel against my cheek) a boing spring action that I don't experience with the other Mini.
I like.

Sky Cloud Wood Air gun Fender

Here forum member CurtMini14 is set up on the bench behind me. He finally went over to the dark side and bought a Mini-30.
I think he was looking for his brass in this pic or getting up to walk to the target.
He had put a low powered Leupold (2x or 3x maybe ?) on this Mini and was getting it sighted in.
We were shooting at 100, 200 and 300 meters.
A fun day getting together and doing some blasting.

Cloud Sky Plant Table Gas
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Living in the "Worker's Paradise" of Rhode Island, and given the Hot/Cold, and Dry/Wet climate we have, IMHO Syn stocks seem to be preferable to wood stocks hereabouts. Others living in different climates will vary, of course.

YMMV, and "One Size Does Not Fit All"
 

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Likewise here in Massachusetts having a synthetic stock is easy to care for and more weatherproof. I have the SSMini14
Living in the "Worker's Paradise" of Rhode Island, and given the Hot/Cold, and Dry/Wet climate we have, IMHO Syn stocks seem to be preferable to wood stocks hereabouts. Others living in different climates will vary, of course.

YMMV, and "One Size Does Not Fit All"
 

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I have 581 Tactical w synthetic stock and have no reason to replace it. Light, stout and near impervious to weather.
 
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I bought my 581 SS mini with a black syn stock which works for my because I tend scratch things. I’m not the more careful person. But….. my son in law at that time could only get a wood with blued metal. He’s ex military and loves all black guns so we traded stocks. Wood and SS makes a sweet looking rifle. And yes it now has scratches
 

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I'm ex-military and like anything BUT black guns.
I'd like black guns if our planet was dark 24/7.
I really like this, what color Cerakote is this, and what stock is this? It's really funny as we are into offroad desert racing and all the teams show up in all black, black clothes black truck, black glasseso_O, its normally like 95/115deg when racing, I vote for lots of colors(y)
 
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