Mini Syn Stock or Wood?
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I’m a big fan of wood for the Mini 14.
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It is just in its genetic code:
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As for wood stocks being unstable, well…you get what you give.
I shot service rifle competition with an M1A Supermatch and I never had issues with the zero wandering. But then I also took care to completely seal the inside of the stock, including the end grain under the butt plate and the cleaning kit recess.
I’ll usually stick with pure tung oil on the exterior surfaces but I will also occasionally use Tru-oil on the inner surfaces as the polymerized oil does a slightly better job of sealing the wood.
On my M1A Supermatch I used Tru-oil on the outer surfaces as well and then used 0000 steel wool to knock back the shine to a nice satin finish. It was a 1/2 MOA rifle and any change in zero was noticeable.
But all the military rifles and carbines pictured above just have pure tung oil finish (except for boiled linseed oil in one case) inside and out and they don’t demonstrate any noticeable change in zero.
The Mini 14s have whatever was used on the outside and either tru oil or pure tung oil on the inside and they are also stable in terms of holding a zero.
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It is just in its genetic code:
.HEIC?width=590&height=590&fit=bounds)
——
As for wood stocks being unstable, well…you get what you give.
I shot service rifle competition with an M1A Supermatch and I never had issues with the zero wandering. But then I also took care to completely seal the inside of the stock, including the end grain under the butt plate and the cleaning kit recess.
I’ll usually stick with pure tung oil on the exterior surfaces but I will also occasionally use Tru-oil on the inner surfaces as the polymerized oil does a slightly better job of sealing the wood.
On my M1A Supermatch I used Tru-oil on the outer surfaces as well and then used 0000 steel wool to knock back the shine to a nice satin finish. It was a 1/2 MOA rifle and any change in zero was noticeable.
But all the military rifles and carbines pictured above just have pure tung oil finish (except for boiled linseed oil in one case) inside and out and they don’t demonstrate any noticeable change in zero.
The Mini 14s have whatever was used on the outside and either tru oil or pure tung oil on the inside and they are also stable in terms of holding a zero.
Joined
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360 Posts
All this talk about how to finish/protect Wooden stocks is valuable info; I've done much the same myself. Decent syn stocks don't need any of this expert knowledge and painstaking application of possibly expensive wooden stock finishes.
To each their own.
To each their own.
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570 Posts
For anyone new to BLO, it can ignite rags. I've seen it myself. As it cures, it heats up and has caused plenty of dumpster fires 😀
Still haven't decided what's the best method of caring for wood stocks. I currently just wipe down with a shop towel and Howard's Orange Oil. All of my wood stocks have an exterior finish; assumed to be some sort of poly. I figure it's safe on the finish, helps clean grime, and puts a slight protectant on the portions that are only stained.
I should note Howard's contains mineral oil, which is the primary ingredient in many gun oils. I've heard a lot of conflicting comments on these oils and wood stocks. Too much snake talk when it comes to guns, take it all with salt.
BLO all day on the work bench. If I ever pick up a raw rifle stock, it will likely get the same treatment.
Still haven't decided what's the best method of caring for wood stocks. I currently just wipe down with a shop towel and Howard's Orange Oil. All of my wood stocks have an exterior finish; assumed to be some sort of poly. I figure it's safe on the finish, helps clean grime, and puts a slight protectant on the portions that are only stained.
I should note Howard's contains mineral oil, which is the primary ingredient in many gun oils. I've heard a lot of conflicting comments on these oils and wood stocks. Too much snake talk when it comes to guns, take it all with salt.
BLO all day on the work bench. If I ever pick up a raw rifle stock, it will likely get the same treatment.
Beautifull stock? May I ask where you got it?
Accuracy Systems Inc
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2 Posts
That stock is beautiful. Is that something reworked or custom made, or did you buy it like that?
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21 Posts
When I bought my used Mini, it had the absolutely cheesy Ruger marked "Tactical" stock. I couldn't stand it - flexy, plastic piece of junk. I took it off right away and replaced it with a wood stock from my junk box that had been sanded (not by me) but couldn't get the stock to take stain evenly (or so I thought). Purchased an OEM synthetic stock which is on the rifle right now.
I've stripped the wood stock of furniture and finish and begun treating it with BLO. It's taking color much more evenly than with stain with a reddish tint. I'm taking the time to thoroughly treat the stock inside and out for maximum weather resistance (believe it or not, it does occasionally rain and even snow here in Northern Nevada). I do have the same concern as RlBob about the wood compressing; I won't be surprised if I wind up bedding the action to the stock as I have every M1A and Garand I've owned over the years. It'll give me something to do in the winter!
In the end, there's just something about blue steel and wood that synthetic just doesn't have. Since this rifle is a range toy I'm not concerned with instant readiness - if needed, it'll only take a minute to reinstall the synthetic stock.
I've stripped the wood stock of furniture and finish and begun treating it with BLO. It's taking color much more evenly than with stain with a reddish tint. I'm taking the time to thoroughly treat the stock inside and out for maximum weather resistance (believe it or not, it does occasionally rain and even snow here in Northern Nevada). I do have the same concern as RlBob about the wood compressing; I won't be surprised if I wind up bedding the action to the stock as I have every M1A and Garand I've owned over the years. It'll give me something to do in the winter!
In the end, there's just something about blue steel and wood that synthetic just doesn't have. Since this rifle is a range toy I'm not concerned with instant readiness - if needed, it'll only take a minute to reinstall the synthetic stock.
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2 Posts
I'm wanting to do the same with my Mini 30, I'm not a fan of the synthetic look and prefer the look and feel of wood. I've read about bedding techniques but have never done it. How do you bed your receivers?
I don’t get the flexy. Cheesey!?!? That’s funny! My Tactical stock is quite secure. And the combo is an moa gun.
you have to really put some energy to get any twist! If you don’t like plastic get something different but a bad stock? Nah.
I love the look of walnut but can’t justify the cost for looks and no better performance.
![Jeans Shoulder Picture frame Sleeve Gesture]()
you have to really put some energy to get any twist! If you don’t like plastic get something different but a bad stock? Nah.
I love the look of walnut but can’t justify the cost for looks and no better performance.
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2,843 Posts
I was thinking the same thing, sr40ken. I don't find the factory synthetic stock flexy either.
After trying almost every Mini stock out there, factory and aftermarket, the synthetic is the best all-round stock.
It is not expensive, nor heavy, and has grippy-ness just where you need it.
The Ruger factory stock might not be stiff when compared to a McMillan stock for a single shot bolt gun, but compared to say, a Choate synthetic for the Mini, the Ruger is stiff.
You can twist the end of the Choate around like it's a Loofa sponge.
The wood stock on the Mini is my favorite for range use, where the extra weight is welcome.
You can't beat the looks of wood either.
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But I try to be realistic in such matters, and although I say I vote for wood, I can think of at many reasons why the synthetic stock is superior, and all of them trump looks or nostalgia.
The synthetic is :
1) Lighter
2) Trimmer
3) Has checkering
4) More stable in changing humidity.
5) More weatherproof in changing environments
6) Less likely to break at the wrist if you have to beat someone with it.
7) No shrinkage or compression
8) No need to ever refinish like wood.
9) Much easier to add rails on fore-end with a wood stock (room between heat shield and stock for rail nuts)
Not much out there that's as weather resistant as a stainless Mini with syn stock, except for maybe a stainless/synthetic Mini that has everything Cerakoted.
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After trying almost every Mini stock out there, factory and aftermarket, the synthetic is the best all-round stock.
It is not expensive, nor heavy, and has grippy-ness just where you need it.
The Ruger factory stock might not be stiff when compared to a McMillan stock for a single shot bolt gun, but compared to say, a Choate synthetic for the Mini, the Ruger is stiff.
You can twist the end of the Choate around like it's a Loofa sponge.
The wood stock on the Mini is my favorite for range use, where the extra weight is welcome.
You can't beat the looks of wood either.
But I try to be realistic in such matters, and although I say I vote for wood, I can think of at many reasons why the synthetic stock is superior, and all of them trump looks or nostalgia.
The synthetic is :
1) Lighter
2) Trimmer
3) Has checkering
4) More stable in changing humidity.
5) More weatherproof in changing environments
6) Less likely to break at the wrist if you have to beat someone with it.
7) No shrinkage or compression
8) No need to ever refinish like wood.
9) Much easier to add rails on fore-end with a wood stock (room between heat shield and stock for rail nuts)
Not much out there that's as weather resistant as a stainless Mini with syn stock, except for maybe a stainless/synthetic Mini that has everything Cerakoted.
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360 Posts
I prefer syn stocks for many objective reasons explained before, both by myself and others. I don't condemn users of wooden stocks if such stocks work well for them. To each his own, and not my place to pass judgement.
FWIW have replaced wooden stocks on both my M1 Garands with hard-to-find syn stocks, and the M1s shoot more reliably and more accurately. Replaced Huge wooden (bedded) stock on Supermatch M1A with carefully bedded GI fiberglass stock with no observable loss in accuracy, but a district loss in weight and bulk. I'm not claiming to be an "Expert", just reporting observed results.
FWIW have replaced wooden stocks on both my M1 Garands with hard-to-find syn stocks, and the M1s shoot more reliably and more accurately. Replaced Huge wooden (bedded) stock on Supermatch M1A with carefully bedded GI fiberglass stock with no observable loss in accuracy, but a district loss in weight and bulk. I'm not claiming to be an "Expert", just reporting observed results.
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570 Posts
Regarding the "flex," my Ruger OEM synthetic definitely has some on the muzzle end beneath the heat shield. With just a bit of pressure from the non-dominant supporting hand, the plastic will visibly collapse. My Ruger American Predator feels much more sturdy.
Beyond that, it feels very rugged. The birch OEM stocks are definitely on the cheap side, but are more solid. Currently the steel is sitting in the adored ATM folder. The ATM definitely wins for "WOW" factor and transport.
Beyond that, it feels very rugged. The birch OEM stocks are definitely on the cheap side, but are more solid. Currently the steel is sitting in the adored ATM folder. The ATM definitely wins for "WOW" factor and transport.
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13 Posts
It's so heartening to see Australians who still own firearms.
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277 Posts
I, too, am a fan of the wood.
![Wood Trigger String instrument accessory Guitar accessory Air gun]()
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