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Discussion Starter #1
Just passed 3000 rounds yesterday.
Had several failures to eject with the brass ammo and those that were ejecting pounded the front scope mount.
Also had 40 rounds of Wolf 150 grain soft points that I wanted to get rid of.
Several of the Wolf rounds were problematic, no fires, stovepipe jams, etc.
Got home and disassembled rifle for cleaning.
Found that the extractor in the bolt was loose. Not enough to fall out but the little spring pushing the extractor plunger wasn't pushing very hard.
Also, looking closer I saw that one corner of the plunger was chipped.
So I disassembled the bolt, found the plunger spring hole was completely choked with carbon and I had to dig the spring out.
Cleaned everything and installed a new extractor, spring and plunger.
I also compared the slide recoil spring to a new one I had and saw that tho old spring was about an inch shorter than the new one so I put the new one in.
Put it all back together and checked function with dummy rounds.
Seems to work OK but won't really know until I get to range.
Thanks
 

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Not knowing if Ruger will sell you the individual parts I have to ask. If they do I think I'll order up a few spare parts for the inventory. Thanks for the post.
 

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I checked at Midway's website and the extractor is about $8, the spring about $2 and the plunger is about $3. You could also call Ruger and they would probably send you the parts for free.


Jim
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Extractor Update and More

At range yesterday and ran several mags through rifle without any issues.
Seems the new extractor works just fine.
However, the screws holding the Ruger factory rail came loose so the scope was flopping around. They were well "lock tighted" when installed.
Had the hex key for the scope mounts but did not have the little hex key for the flathead screws holding the rail to the receiver.
Ran home and removed the scope and the rail and went back to the range with just the factory open sights.
Worked with them for awhile to zero the rifle.
The rear sight is a PIA to adjust.
Trick I found is to adjust vertically first then work on the horizontal.

Seems the gods are against mounting anything on this rifle.
The back of the EOtech (GGG mount) got beat to $hit by ejecting empties.
The scope and its mounts got beat to $hit by ejecting empties.
The only way I can see to mount something out of the way of ejecting empties is to mount it way out in front of the bolt, somewhere over the handguard. Not sure I want to spend any more $$$ on this rifle.

As for accuracy, with all kinds of sights, scope, red dot or open, it's minute of pie plate at 100 yards, regardless of ammo type or barrel temp.
FWIW.
Thanks.
 

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@Spitnine, Thanks for posting. I have only shot mine about 200 rounds...have a difficult time finding brass cased ammo.
 

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spitnine, is your Mini a newer one, or an older model? I have noticed more carbon build up on my Blued Mini-30, than my Mini-14. Both have fired almost nothing but my handloads, no cheap Tula or the like. I try to take apart my bolt at least once a year to clean the extractor plunger and firing pin and channel. I could see where the extractor could be loose if the plunger and plunger spring was gummed up, as those keep the extractor in place.
Mount that EOTech out on an Ultimak rail and all the problems of brass hitting the optic will go away. The Ultimak will set you back $130-$140 but they are well worth it to make your Mini outstanding. The Ultimak will help your accuracy along with an Accustrut, and both will spread out the heat from your barrel. I have a long eye relief 2.5-8x Nikon scope mounted on the Ultimak on my flatter shooting Mini-14, and the Mini-30 has an Burris FF III with a protector mount on it's Ultimak hand guard.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
582 Series

spitnine, is your Mini a newer one, or an older model? I have noticed more carbon build up on my Blued Mini-30, than my Mini-14. Both have fired almost nothing but my handloads, no cheap Tula or the like. I try to take apart my bolt at least once a year to clean the extractor plunger and firing pin and channel. I could see where the extractor could be loose if the plunger and plunger spring was gummed up, as those keep the extractor in place.
Mount that EOTech out on an Ultimak rail and all the problems of brass hitting the optic will go away. The Ultimak will set you back $130-$140 but they are well worth it to make your Mini outstanding. The Ultimak will help your accuracy along with an Accustrut, and both will spread out the heat from your barrel. I have a long eye relief 2.5-8x Nikon scope mounted on the Ultimak on my flatter shooting Mini-14, and the Mini-30 has an Burris FF III with a protector mount on it's Ultimak hand guard.
I bought it new about two years ago.
I like the way yours looks but I'm not ready to put any more $$$$ into mine.
I'll look into the Ultimak for possible future upgrade.
Thanks
 

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3,000?...that's just well broken in.

I used a steel side mount for years with no drama.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Try PPU

@Spitnine, Thanks for posting. I have only shot mine about 200 rounds...have a difficult time finding brass cased ammo.
I've had good luck with it in both .223/5.56 and 7.62x39.
It's usually available online quite reasonably and its brass cases reload nicely.
Thanks
 
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