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Discussion Starter #1
Boy, I stay away for six months and everything goes to heck in a handbasket. Went to the range this morning, so yesterday I cleaned and generally fussed over the MK III with Volqartsen trigger and magazine disconnect modification. Load with CCI Mini-mag target rounds, as normal (probably 2,000 of those through this pistol, with virtually, if not actually, zero issues). Pistol dry fires perfectly, as function check after assembly. Loaded with full magazine, it chambers the first round as normal, fires and ejects the first round as normal, loads the second round as normal, but it's as if the trigger does not reset. Trigger is loose, floppy, obviously the round cannot be fired. Manually cycle the pistol, loaded unfired round ejects normally, next round loads from magazine, trigger is normal, pistol fires and again ejects the round, loads the next round from the magazine, trigger is loose and not reset, next round cannot be fired. Manual cycle again clears and ejects the freshly loaded, unfired round, loads another round from the mag, and fires normally. And again, until I've fired five rounds out of the 10 round magazine, manually cycling each time, and I have 5 ejected round on the bench. Tried a different magazine, no difference. Any thoughts on what might be happening, or going wrong? Things to check when I take it apart? All I do in cleaning is the barrel, brush the action with a toothbrush and solvent, wipe dry, tiny bit of Hoppes 9 oil, wipe off. I'm not a gunsmith, just a shooter.
Thanks very much for any thoughts on this, particularly a function check to see if I've fixed it before I drive 50 miles to the range to test shoot it..
 

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MC,

You may not have enough PT to reliably reset the disconnector...backing out the PT screw 1/4 of a turn should help!

Silly question, did you Loctite (purple or blue) the PT and OT trigger screws? :unsure:

Ted
 

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It sounds to me like you installed the VQ trigger spring along with their trigger. That spring is made of thinner wire that, over time, weakens to the point of causing reset problems - exactly as you describe.

Put the Ruger spring back in, and your problem should disappear.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
A local gunsmith installed the upgrade parts, and I haven't touched them. I find it so odd that the slide comes back all the way, ejects the spent round, loads new, but the trigger doesn't reset. I will look closely at the trigger area.
 

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A local gunsmith installed the upgrade parts, and I haven't touched them. I find it so odd that the slide comes back all the way, ejects the spent round, loads new, but the trigger doesn't reset. I will look closely at the trigger area.
The adjustable PT (pre-travel screw-above trigger finger) and OT (over-travel screw-behind trigger finger) will move on their own if not locked down with blue loctite, causing future resetting issues (PT) or lack of firing issues (OT)!

When properly set and with movement restricted, repeatability and reliability should be restored. Here is the Volquartsen Video on setting their travel limits!

Ted
 

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When did you get the parts installed?
 

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I agree with Theo. It's probably Pre or Over travel. Once you get it set use some Blue Loctite to keep the screws set. You can also use Purple or your wife's nail polish.
 

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I agree with Theo. It's probably Pre or Over travel. Once you get it set use some Blue Loctite to keep the screws set. You can also use Purple or your wife's nail polish.
Don't use your wife's ... get your own bottle ... Not worth getting a wife upset if you spill her favorite color ... they get upset when that happens .
Another option is ask your daughter for some ...they will usually have lots of colors and glad to help dear old Dad out .
Gary
 

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A local gunsmith installed the upgrade parts, and I haven't touched them. I find it so odd that the slide comes back all the way, ejects the spent round, loads new, but the trigger doesn't reset. I will look closely at the trigger area.
It's probably What Theo98 or TestEngineer suggested. The easiest to try would be the pre travel or overtravel screw adjustment. If that doesn't fix the reset problem the trigger reset spring will go a long way to give a more positive reset to the trigger but requires taking the trigger out of the frame to change it but not a real big job.
 

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Boy, I stay away for six months and everything goes to heck in a handbasket. Went to the range this morning, so yesterday I cleaned and generally fussed over the MK III with Volqartsen trigger and magazine disconnect modification. Load with CCI Mini-mag target rounds, as normal (probably 2,000 of those through this pistol, with virtually, if not actually, zero issues). Pistol dry fires perfectly, as function check after assembly. Loaded with full magazine, it chambers the first round as normal, fires and ejects the first round as normal, loads the second round as normal, but it's as if the trigger does not reset. Trigger is loose, floppy, obviously the round cannot be fired. Manually cycle the pistol, loaded unfired round ejects normally, next round loads from magazine, trigger is normal, pistol fires and again ejects the round, loads the next round from the magazine, trigger is loose and not reset, next round cannot be fired. Manual cycle again clears and ejects the freshly loaded, unfired round, loads another round from the mag, and fires normally. And again, until I've fired five rounds out of the 10 round magazine, manually cycling each time, and I have 5 ejected round on the bench. Tried a different magazine, no difference. Any thoughts on what might be happening, or going wrong? Things to check when I take it apart? All I do in cleaning is the barrel, brush the action with a toothbrush and solvent, wipe dry, tiny bit of Hoppes 9 oil, wipe off. I'm not a gunsmith, just a shooter.
Thanks very much for any thoughts on this, particularly a function check to see if I've fixed it before I drive 50 miles to the range to test shoot it..
You very CLEARLY stated which parts you replaced, so the trigger plunger spring is NOT the issue here. What "Theo" suggested is what I also recommend. Both he and I own several Ruger Mark pistols, rather than only one, that some consider to be an expert on.
I've been working on Ruger Mark pistols since 1969, and if anyone knows that the more stuff you throw against the wall, the more stuff will stick. Over these 51 years, I've kept extensive notes as to what I've found that can affect these already well made pistols, and don't be fooled, the little things can cause disconcerting problems that others don't know what to look for.
The first thing you might consider trying is backing out the pre-travel screw a quarter turn as was already suggested. What I prefer to do with both the pre and over-travel screws is to slightly pinch the crown of the threads, just a tiny bit. That action will cause the screws to turn a tiny bit more stiffly, but the screw holds it's place better while the Loctite #242 (blue) takes hold:



The purple stuff is the weakest of all the thread lockers, even though it's mentioned for use with tiny fasteners. The #242 is still serviceable, after hardening a bit, with hand tools. No heat needed for release. Even some of the scope ring makers include this version of Loctite for optics base screws. But always, clean the male and female threads with a good cleaner to remove any oil that may be present. Automotive brake and parts cleaner work well for me.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks for all the advice. Here is my most basic question. The trigger only malfunctions when it's been fired, the action has been blown back and come forward under the recoil from the fired round. In all other situations, the trigger is perfect. It dry-fires perfectly and it live fires perfectly when I manually cycle the slide to load a round. In other words, the trigger seems perfect and I cannot duplicate the problem without actually firing the pistol. In examination, the free play on the trigger is exactly what it has always been suggesting that nothing has moved. I bought the pistol with the upgrades already installed, they have been in place for at least 6 years. My other (stupid yet true) problem is that since I live in Canada I can't fire the weapon outside a certified range, so I can't test it, unless I can somehow duplicate the problem dry-firing, which I am going to try to do today. My range is around an hour away. My hope is that when I find my magnifying headset so I can see the thing properly, and I take it apart, some piece of debris got left in when I cleaned it a few days ago.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks guys, fixed it as advised by backing off the PT screw about 1/8th of a turn, increased the slack before the trigger engages considerably. Must have been adjusted just on the edge for it to dry fire and fire manually reliably yet not reset when live firing. 1/16" hex key now in the range kit...
 

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Thanks guys, fixed it as advised by backing off the PT screw about 1/8th of a turn, increased the slack before the trigger engages considerably. Must have been adjusted just on the edge for it to dry fire and fire manually reliably yet not reset when live firing. 1/16" hex key now in the range kit...
Yes backing out the PT screw should solve your problem and you will find out when you live fire it. For the time it takes you to make a round trip to the range and back I probably would have done the old shot gun fix and adjusted the screw and changed out the trigger return spring then you would have all bases covered but hope the screw adjustment does it.
 
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