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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 1985 blued MkII and was wondering if the bolt was made of stainless, since half of the bolt is unfinished and it hasn't rusted.

Also, I recently picked up a 1989 stainless MkII and while disassembling it I noticed some differences. The mainspring housing on the 1982 blued one is made of 3 layers of metal pinned together, while the 1989 stainless is made of a single machined piece of metal. All photos I have seen on the internet of a mainspring housing shows one that has 3 layers of metal pinned together. Was there a time when Ruger changed the manufacturing process? Even the MkIIIs I have seen have a 3-layered mainspring housing.

Also, the firing pin stop pin in the bolt is doesn't reach the thickness of the bolt. It's shorter than the one in my other MkII. Normal? It doesn't look like it sheared.

The bolt on my stainless has the welded tapered ears. I want to future-proof one of these guns (so it will last basically forever, even in emergency conditions)... I hear a MkIII bolt with MkIII bolt stop will work. Is there any downsides to having a MkIII bolt?


Now onto coatings. Any of you have sent off a MkII/MkIII to have a nickel-boron plating on it? Was thinking about having the stainless one sent off for plating for awesome corrosion resistance.
 

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I also have a Mark II 5 1/2 inch bull barrel and my bolt is not stainless but since I've fired thousands of rounds through it without mishap I'm not really concerned. It's by far my least expensive pistol I own but it's the one I never get tired of shooting. I take it to the range everytime even with my other firearms and always put some lead down the pipe.
 

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No stainless bolt on any Mark, with the exception of some anniversary editions (I have one).

The bolt stop not being an exact match to the thickness of the bolt is normal. Just make sure it isn't bent or damaged. Doesn't have to be the exact width of the bolt. If it bothers you, you can get another for $2 from Ruger

As for the bolt itself, there is no difference between a Mark II or III in terms of ruggedness or durability. Hey, you're talking the Sherman tanks of the 22 autoloader world with Marks. My 60's vintage Mark will stay right up there with my Mark II and my two Mark IIIs. You could drive a truck over any of them and they'd still shoot.

As for coating, save your money. It takes some horrendous abuse to either a blued or stainless Mark to get rust. Just normal maintenance - wiping them down after you use them - and your Marks will last for a lifetime and then some.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
No stainless bolt on any Mark, with the exception of some anniversary editions (I have one).
So the bolt on the stainless guns are not stainless? Was this to prevent galling? How come the bare steel doesn't rust then?

Still curious about the machined rather than pinned together mainspring housing. Never seen that before.

Sorry for all the questions, just thirsty for trivial info.
 

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I believe all the bolts in my stainless Marks are stainless, but I could be wrong. They sure look and act like stainless. If you have concerns about the two piece bolt, send the complete bolt assembly to Ruger for a replacement. Include a note telling them what you want them to do. It's my understanding that they will replace them without question. They will also send a MKIII bolt stop assembly since the only bolts available are MKIIIs and there is a slight difference from the MKII.

They've replaced two for me so far.
 

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The bolts in the stainless may well be stainless, now that I've checked my manual and see that there is a different part number for the stainless versus the blued model on the bolts. That doesn't necessarily mean the bolt is stainless, though. Yes, the bolt on my Hunter and Comp does show some response to a magnet, but, then, there are many types of stainless used in guns and some types of stainless will respond to a magnet. The barrel on my Hunter, for instance is stainless and it shows a strong magnetic response.

Moot point, anyway. Have never had any rust on the bolts on my blued models. Never been an issue and I've been shooting them since the 70s. I suspect the steel is so darn hard it does a pretty good job of resisting rust. Besides, the rear half of the bolt is blued, anyway.

Like I posted, as long as you do anything close to reasonable maintenance, rust won't be an issue, unless you live in some extreme environment. Good to see that you're so conscientious about this, though. With that attitude, your Marks should last darn near, forever.

Not sure about the mainspring question. Would actually have to see the gun, but, as far as I know, they've all been pretty much the same through the Mark series. Might want to check with Ruger on that.
 

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Thanks North Country Girl, wasn't sure that's why I asked about the magnet.
You are very welcome. That myth about stainless not showing a response to stainless is one of those things that gets passed around gun forms so often that it almost becomes gospel. Heck, my husband has a big magnet in his shop that will darn near pick up my stainless GP right off the shop table.
 
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