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just got my take down 10-22 haven't got to shoot it yet. Not going to start with bunch of mods after all this is not a Carlos Hathcock sniper rifle . I will fix the bolt release problem but not much else for now. I have a couple of scopes so i will pick one to use soon.
Everybody stay safe while shooting and enjoy our sport.


Benefactor Life Member NRA since mid 70's, Navy vet, USS AMERICA, 65 TO 67
 

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Send your trigger group to Brimstone Gunsmithing. For about $35, you’ll get a better trigger than the BX unit, and cheaper, too. personally, I would stay away from the extended mag release. One came with my latest 10/22, and it was forever catching on any rest I happened to be using and dumping the mag. Other than that, just shoot it as is for awhile and see what you need as you go.
 

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Send your trigger group to Brimstone Gunsmithing. For about $35, you’ll get a better trigger than the BX unit, and cheaper, too. personally, I would stay away from the extended mag release. One came with my latest 10/22, and it was forever catching on any rest I happened to be using and dumping the mag. Other than that, just shoot it as is for awhile and see what you need as you go.
I agree that Brimstone Gunsmithing does nice work on factory Ruger 10/22 trigger groups. I have had them do a Tier 3 job on one and a Tier 2 job on another. But they have raised their prices. A Tier 3 trigger job is now $45 plus a $9.95 return shipping charge. That does not include the cost of shipping the trigger group to them, which has generally cost me about $7 to send it in a small, padded envelope.

It might be worth mentioning, that installing any barrel that has a significantly greater diameter than the stock barrel (including heavy taper barrels) in a carbine stock will prevent the use of the barrel band. The barrel band is really only there for cosmetics. Some Ruger 10/22 carbine owners have found their rifles shoot more accurately with the band off, or if the top loop of the band is relieved enough that it does not touch the barrel.

But some people think the carbine stock looks funny without the band and bob the tapered end off the stock or re-contour the fore-end of the stock to get rid of the "step".
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Why oh why would you want to start going down the modding a 10/22 rabbit hole!?!? It will never end.....AND you'll have a blast the entire way. There's nothing you can't do yourself. Mostly because so many parts are drop in and make such a big difference, IMHO.

Took a while but I ended up with the attached. So fun to shoot, and so accurate. Dime sized groups all day at 50 yards, quarter at 100. Only thing stock is the receiver and bolt :eek:.

Enjoy the journey! You have a nice looking rifle there.:cool:
As far as modding goes, I had been warned by others that once you start modding one, you can't stop... I am already thinking of plans for my Takedown model (maybe a backpacker stock, and a heavy barrel, charging handle, M Carbo spring kit, and a few other things), but I also have in my mind to buy a old used crusty 10/22 as cheap as I can and go build a budget more-complete build with better stock, heavy barrel, and as much drop in aftermarket as I can on a budget. There are so many cool upgrades.

It is good to know that I don't need the front barrel band, this stock is so tight on the action, I think it will ok to leave it. In future builds with heavy barrel, I will float the barrel and action or bed it.

I am so happy to be getting deeper into the 10/22 world, and I can see myself getting stuck in the wormhole.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Send your trigger group to Brimstone Gunsmithing. For about $35, you’ll get a better trigger than the BX unit, and cheaper, too. personally, I would stay away from the extended mag release. One came with my latest 10/22, and it was forever catching on any rest I happened to be using and dumping the mag. Other than that, just shoot it as is for awhile and see what you need as you go.
That sounds like a great service. I may look into that in the future
 

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Extended magazine release levers are very much a matter of personal preference and intended use. Some who use Ruger 10/22s for hunting prefer the original button magazine release that does not extend below the rifle at all to avoid any chance of accidentally dropping the magazine.

I have tried the long levers that extend all the way back beneath the trigger guard. I don't care for them for the types of shooting I do. My favorite magazine release lever is this model by Timber Creek:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/TIMBER-CREEK-RUGER-10-22-EXTENDED-MAGAZINE-RELEASE-LEVER-ANODIZED-BLACK/272375397808?epid=1439741517&hash=item3f6ad6bdb0:g:ZykAAOSwezVW1Jv6

Also comes in colors if you are into that sort of thing. Instead of extending straight down like the extended mag release lever that Ruger now uses on 10/22s, this one curves back and resides just in front of the trigger guard. In that position it is less likely to accidentally get pushed forward. At least that had never happened to me. Also, when shooting offhand I often prefer to have my support hand directly beneath the balance point of the rifle, which is very often right under the magazine, and this lever is more out of the way.

I shoot 10/22s in timed fire events using a sling during which magazine changes are required during stages of fire. I change magazines with my shooting hand which allows me to keep the rifle slung up and shouldered during the change. With this lever it is an easy manner to run your shooting hand thumb forward along the bottom surface of the trigger guard, then push the lever forward and let the empty magazine drop into your open hand.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Extended magazine release levers are very much a matter of personal preference and intended use. Some who use Ruger 10/22s for hunting prefer the original button magazine release that does not extend below the rifle at all to avoid any chance of accidentally dropping the magazine.

I have tried the long levers that extend all the way back beneath the trigger guard. I don't care for them for the types of shooting I do. My favorite magazine release lever is this model by Timber Creek:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/TIMBER-CREEK-RUGER-10-22-EXTENDED-MAGAZINE-RELEASE-LEVER-ANODIZED-BLACK/272375397808?epid=1439741517&hash=item3f6ad6bdb0:g:ZykAAOSwezVW1Jv6

Also comes in colors if you are into that sort of thing. Instead of extending straight down like the extended mag release lever that Ruger now uses on 10/22s, this one curves back and resides just in front of the trigger guard. In that position it is less likely to accidentally get pushed forward. At least that had never happened to me. Also, when shooting offhand I often prefer to have my support hand directly beneath the balance point of the rifle, which is very often right under the magazine, and this lever is more out of the way.

I shoot 10/22s in timed fire events using a sling during which magazine changes are required during stages of fire. I change magazines with my shooting hand which allows me to keep the rifle slung up and shouldered during the change. With this lever it is an easy manner to run your shooting hand thumb forward along the bottom surface of the trigger guard, then push the lever forward and let the empty magazine drop into your open hand.
I bought a full length release lever to try, but I like the look of the Timber Creek ones, it is what I was going to buy originally.. Or the ruger extended ones that wrap around the front of the trigger guard.

I guess time will tell if I like the long one or not, if not, I will sell a lot of all the parts I didn't use on my builds lol.

I plan to get some dual mag connectors, I think they will be a little more useful than the tri mag adapter, and I already have two BX25 mags. They're fun, but not when bench shooting.
 

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but I also have in my mind to buy a old used crusty 10/22 as cheap as I can and go build a budget more-complete build with better stock, heavy barrel, and as much drop in aftermarket as I can on a budget.
good thinking... that is how i built one of my Charger TDs... the SAP folks have various parts - mostly pull-offs - that can save you money...

willie
on the Gulf of Mexico
 

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Discussion Starter #30

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Your stock recoil spring guide rod is interesting. It is either an older design or has been modified.

I was given to believe that in the past Ruger used some type of retaining ring on the end of the recoil spring guide rod to contain the recoil spring but I could be wrong. On current Ruger 10/22s the end of the recoil spring guide rod is staked (peened?) and neither the charging handle nor the recoil spring can be removed from the guide rod simply. It would not be difficult to file down the peening on the end of the rod to remove the spring and the handle, but Ruger does not sell either the spring nor the charging handle separately. The entire guide rod, spring, charging handle is sold as a unit and costs $9 or less.

Of course, there is no real need to have a retaining ring on the guide rod. Kidd sells a guide rod, spring, charging handle assembly with no retaining ring to capture the spring. It makes installing the charging handle slightly more difficult since the spring has to be placed on the rod, then compressed, then the charging handle slid onto the end of the rod and held on under spring tension while the assembly is inserted into the receiver through the ejection port. But once you have done this a time or two it becomes quite straightforward.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Get a BX trigger for sure, and maybe a Nikon 4-12X40 Prostaff Rimfire scope (usually about $110).
I put the M*Carbo springs in the trigger on the recommendation of another member, and they made a pretty big difference. I'll stick with those for now. Much cheaper, and took no time to install.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Your stock recoil spring guide rod is interesting. It is either an older design or has been modified.

I was given to believe that in the past Ruger used some type of retaining ring on the end of the recoil spring guide rod to contain the recoil spring but I could be wrong. On current Ruger 10/22s the end of the recoil spring guide rod is staked (peened?) and neither the charging handle nor the recoil spring can be removed from the guide rod simply. It would not be difficult to file down the peening on the end of the rod to remove the spring and the handle, but Ruger does not sell either the spring nor the charging handle separately. The entire guide rod, spring, charging handle is sold as a unit and costs $9 or less.

Of course, there is no real need to have a retaining ring on the guide rod. Kidd sells a guide rod, spring, charging handle assembly with no retaining ring to capture the spring. It makes installing the charging handle slightly more difficult since the spring has to be placed on the rod, then compressed, then the charging handle slid onto the end of the rod and held on under spring tension while the assembly is inserted into the receiver through the ejection port. But once you have done this a time or two it becomes quite straightforward.
The factory rod is a larger diameter than the new one I got, so I ended up using the factory spring and the aftermarket rod/handle.

I think you are right, the "peening" is to hold the spring on to hold it in place during assembly, I know it's not really necessary to make it function.
 

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Ditto BX trigger, you will notice the difference immediately and you will like it. Other than a custom barrel it is the best upgrade for it.
 

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Any suggestions? I paid $300 for the gun, I’d like to keep mods to that or less.

Are you still under $300 in mods?
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Any suggestions? I paid $300 for the gun, I’d like to keep mods to that or less.

Are you still under $300 in mods?
well under... All I have done to the one I originally asked about was:

$20 bipod and mount
$12 M*CARBO trigger spring kit
$15 extended mag release
$15 Charging handle
$40 scope
$15 in sling
$13 in muzzle brake
$22 in mag couplers

Even if I go with a bull barrel, it will be right around $300 total in mods.

The takedown doesn't count... That one I spent a bit more on...
 

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I took a Walmart special $150 sporter model (no barrel band, stainless barrel, birch stock) and turned it into a precision match rifle with two simple mods.

I put tape around the receiver to make it snug in the stock, then put a plumbing washer under the receiver to lift it up and float the barrel.

I tied for first in a precision rimfire match with it.

5 shot group at 40 yards:

 

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Discussion Starter #39
I took a Walmart special $150 sporter model (no barrel band, stainless barrel, birch stock) and turned it into a precision match rifle with two simple mods.

I put tape around the receiver to make it snug in the stock, then put a plumbing washer under the receiver to lift it up and float the barrel.

5 shot group at 40 yards:

very cool! This is the kind of stuff I like :) low buck/no buck mods with good results.
 
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