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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
am new member and needing advice. my rifle is an old ranch rifle, a 187 I think. Want to add a vortex venom, and a light/laser beneath the barrel. the unit I am interested in is Streamlight TLR-2 G Rail Mounted Flashlight with Green Laser. This is for home defense only.

I want the vortex to sit right in front of the ejection port above receiver and want to use a rail that attaches to bases on receiver. ideas?

mounting the laser/light has me stumped.

any replies will be appreciated.
 

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Seriously. You could get an Amega Rail and get the flashlight rail accessory mount. You could buy any scout rail and by an offset mount 90* or 45* which would allow you to mount your laser/light. You could add a rail to the bottom/side of the stock. I have seen a rail under the barrel and from the arms room.

Products/Ordering
 

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Exalted One
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Welcome from Central Virginia!

Sandog will likely chime in soon with some very good recommendations. Particularly about mounting a Burris FF-III to the forward scope scallop and adding an UltiMak scout rail.

There are some other mods to consider, and a very inexpensive (and reversible) mod is to add M1911 buffers fore and aft of the operating rod to reduce metal-to-metal contact during cycling. This helps the optics survive the violent cycling of the Mini.

Depending on how far your Mini launches expended brass, you may want to consider a smaller gas bushing. Lots of discussion here on that, too.

Lastly, you may want to consider an AccuStrut to help stabilize the barrel to avoid stringing of shots as the barrel heats up. If all you're going to use it for is HD to a range of less than 100 yards, you may not need it.

Good luck, and keep us posted!
 

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That Vortex Venom look like a pretty close copy of the Burris FastFire, right down to the price. Not sure what kind of mounts they are offering for it. Burris offers about a dozen, mostly for different handgun dovetails. There is one that fits a Ruger Ranch rifle scope scallop. I used one briefly. It mounts the optic forward of the bolt and ejection, but I thought it sat up a bit high, and was somewhat exposed to impact. I don't like to shoulder the Mini, and then have to scoot my head up to see through the optic, this is usually the case when mounting an optic over the action on a Mini, whether it's a scope or a red dot. Here are a couple pics of that set up:


This is a much better way of doing it, but will cost more. I went with an Ultimak rail, best place to mount an optic, whether it is a scope or dot. Totally out of the way of ejecting brass, removing the bolt for cleaning, no chance of interference with your rear iron sight, and the optic can be mounted as low as can be for a cheek weld instead of a chin weld on the stock.
I also put the FF III into a Burris Picatinny Protector mount, that wraps around the sight with protective wings.
The Ultimak will set you back $140, and the Burris Picatinny Protector runs $60.
But it is the slickest way I've yet seen.




And it makes it easy to grasp the Mini at the balance point, something that's hard to do with a scope in the way.
Unless Vortex makes a mount that clamps on to a Mini's scope base, you'd be better off just getting a Burris FF III, also you'd be getting a dot that has been around for a while and is proven, instead of one that just came out. The FF III weighs less than an ounce, is tiny, about the size of your thumb, has great battery life, and is rugged, as in holding up well on 12 ga. slug guns and .500 S&W's.
 

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Welcome from Central Virginia!

Sandog will likely chime in soon with some very good recommendations. Particularly about mounting a Burris FF-III to the forward scope scallop and adding an UltiMak scout rail.

There are some other mods to consider, and a very inexpensive (and reversible) mod is to add M1911 buffers fore and aft of the operating rod to reduce metal-to-metal contact during cycling. This helps the optics survive the violent cycling of the Mini.

Depending on how far your Mini launches expended brass, you may want to consider a smaller gas bushing. Lots of discussion here on that, too.

Lastly, you may want to consider an AccuStrut to help stabilize the barrel to avoid stringing of shots as the barrel heats up. If all you're going to use it for is HD to a range of less than 100 yards, you may not need it.

Good luck, and keep us posted!
+1 on the 1911 buffers. Just put some on my mini and what a difference. I'm working on the gas bushing as well. Mr postman just delivered a box from Brownells with a Ultimak scout rail. My plan is for a scope up front like many others on this forum.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
some very helpful replies here. will give me a place to start. this is gonna be a winter project. thanks to all who took the time to reply. and Wasp, I'm a semi-retired farmer, so I've had lotsa experience with the duct tape fix. baling wire used to work good, too, but nobody uses wire for bales anymore.
 
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