Hodgdon's online manual lists a Universal load for 124 gr. bullets that doesn't seem too extreme, so the low end of that might be a good place to start with your bullets. Since they're polymer coated, I think they'd be fine at 900 fps or so.Looking for load data for 9 mm 124 g lead RN with a polymer coating, using Universal Clays. load data almost non existent for this. Need a starting point and a COAL. Trying to make a cheap and soft practice round for s LC9.
It's not unusual, but it isn't the norm lol. The advice you got to start at the low end of the charge for the next heavier bullet is probably what you would have gotten if you called Hodgdon.. . . Is it normal to not find load data? Something you just have to learn? Anyway, thanks again and I'll let you know what works best.
Welcome SteveHo. You will not always find data for your particular bullet, but using data for the same weight bullet & starting low is a good place to start. I will make 10 test rounds, low, mid & high end, then bag them in a labeled zip-lock & test away. I don't shoot/reload for revolvers, but want to someday & what I found after doing that a few times on pistols is the low end load might fire & function in a shorter barreled pistol, like an LC9, but it would not function in a heavier slide/longer barreled pistol, like my SR9c (3.5"), or our Sig SP2022, which has a 3.9" barrel.Thanks! I'm fairly new to reloading and up to this point have worked off of known load data and not comfortable to just make a best guess at a starting point. This gives me a place to begin that I feel comfortable with. Maybe in a few years I'll be able to figure this out on my own. Is it normal to not find load data? Something you just have to learn? Anyway, thanks again and I'll let you know what works best.
Do a barrel drop test like I stated in my first comment. Disassemble the gun and hold just the barrel in your hand and manually drop a dummy round into the chamber and try to spin it with your finger. If it does not spin or if it does not drop out when you tip the barrel up or if the cartridge does not seat fully into the chamber you need to seat the bullet deeper because that means the tip of the bullet is touching the rifling. When the bullet does spin and drop out that means it's not touching the rifling which is what you want. However, you don't want to be too far off from the rifling because that can decrease the accuracy and lead to barrel leading when plain lead bullets are used. Having the bullet touch the rifling will increase the pressure so ideally you want the bullet slightly off the rifling, but not too far away from the rifling so that's why you do the barrel drop test to figure out what COAL works best in that gun.Well, I lied, one more question, I loaded with the OAL of 1.150 for the test rounds, I hadnt seen the post by moakes58 about upping the OAL to 1.160, could that change the pressure enough that I need to go back and rerun the test loads using the longer OAL or just use the longer OAL of 1.160 at 3.6 grains and load a few to make sure they still feed and cycle well? Again, thanks, feeling my way through.....
Nope. While you might tire of hearing it; each gun is an individual. What works in my gun may not work in your gun. Even though they are mass produced to small tolerances, they may differ slightly. For a different gun, start the work-up all over. I have 5, .44 magnums and each one has it's quirks and had different favorite loads, same with my 3, .38 specials...One question, if I wanted to use this in a larger 9 mm, the max would still be 4.0? Correct?? Pressure signs would be the same from one gun to another