[First_Ruger]

I'm new-er to guns and realize that I need to work more on trigger control, because my point of impact is not where I would like it to be. I shoot primarily the Glock 17.

I'm thinking that a .22LR revolver would be good for this goal, because they have high double action trigger pulls. In particular, I read the Ruger LCR and LCRx .22LR has a large trigger pull and the light frame is unforgiving as to point of impact penalties.

At the same time, I'm not fixated on getting an LCR/x. My LGS has them ($620 for 3" frame) and one S&W Model 617 6" ($1,099, but they'll flex on price). By the way, I'm in California, where the prices for everything are bonkers, roster notwithstanding.

Thanks!

 

[DaddyO66]

Point of impact can be affected by many things. More info on poi please.

 

[First_Ruger]

The pie chart says that I make several errors, most commonly tightening grip when pulling trigger.

 

[Wheelguns]

Have you checked out an sp101 in 22lr? I taught my wife on one. I did put lighter springs in it though.

 

[First_Ruger]

?

 

[wproct]

You mentioned a Smith & Wesson model 617, that's about as good as it gets for a .22 caliber revolver for target/range shooting. Given the choice I prefer the 4 inch bbl for all round shooting, but I have owned a 6 inch bbl model and for target shooting it's quite nice.

 

[brnwlms]

First, I am all for buying more guns. But, based on your post, I would recommend taking the money spent on a new gun and use it to take classes with a good instructor. The classes will help you see huge gains by giving you feedback and helping with your technique and errors in your shooting. You will make strides with just a class or two that would equal years of blindly plugging away and figuring things out on your own. Ask me how I know. I shoot at least once a week, most times more, and I still take spend a couple hours a year with an instructor to stay sharp and get corrected on the latest bad habit I seem to have picked up.
Now, on to new guns. First, since you are shooting a Glock 17 primarily, I would steer you away from a revolver and toward an auto .22. That said, if your options you gave, I would get the 617. First, I have one and it shoots better than my single six’s and ten. Second, you want to make things easier on yourself, it harder. It may sound counter-intuitive, but a 617 with a nice, light, crisp single action trigger is going to be what you are wanting. You don’t want a gun that you are fighting, that penalizes you, as you say. You want a gun that makes it easy to use good technique then you can take that technique to your other guns. Here is a story I told in a different thread on this forum. I was taking a friend who was a new shooter out. He brought is Smith SV-9 pistol and I brought a handgun of various guns. He was really struggling with his SV-9. I shot it a little and honestly, I thought it was a great gun for the money, but the trigger was atrocious. Well, I had him put it down and had him shoot a Wilson Combat 1911, a gun with a light 2.5-3 lb single action trigger pull. I had him shoot that for a little bit and then when he went back to his smith he was shooting it much better. Why? He spent some time just focusing on his technique, not fighting the gun.

 

[First_Ruger]

brnwlms, thanks. What are "single six's and ten?"

I've only been able to take two classes. Classes are few and far betwee. Instructors in my area are sketchy. The one outfit I went to has poor customer service/business practices or is just insolvent, eg website is constantly down and they're really bad with returning text messages.

 

[DaddyO66]

Single six and ten are ruger single action revolvers. 22 long rifle. Hold six and ten rounds respectively.

 

[frog4aday]

Get the S&W 617. Shooting .22LR is fun! It can help get you back on track if you start to get a little twitchy & flinchy shooting the bigger guns. The .22LR allows you to relax & refocus on the fundamentals.

 

[Penstock]

I used to teach a handgun class to beginners,and one of my most valuable tools is the "snap cap", inert (dummy) round.
Get a few,and put one or two in the cylinder or magazine,IN AN UNKNOWN POSITION.
Shoot normally,and when the firing pin drops on the dummy,it will become instantly apparent if you are upsetting the gun in the brief interval of trigger squeeze.

 

[DCunniff]

Welcome from SE WI.

Good information.

My two cents is what do you want at the end, a revolver or a .22 pistol?

A single action revolver is good to teach handling and basics on but does not carry over to a pistol.

A double action pistol is good if you want to stay with it because you can start with single action triggering.

If you want to end up with a pistol, buy a pistol unless you are OK buying two guns.

 

[Corndog]

I’m going to take another path here. A double action revolver to practice with is fine. Most 22 automatics, unless you get a striker type, are not going to have a trigger similar to your Glock.

There are many here who get value from instructors. I didn’t. My suggestion, a lot of dry fire practice. Clear your gun three times, with the clip removed, to remove any ammunition. Make dam sure the gun is empty and don’t point it at something alive. And dry fire away.

These days, 9mm isn’t much more expensive to shoot than 22LR.

The Glock trigger isn’t hard to master. Your groups will improve with time and some practice.

 

[Jack Ruger]

Excellent points by many here.

I watched a video a year or so ago by a (I think) six time world shooting champion, sorry can't remember his name in the moment.

He does not put up a target for new shooters until they learn to keep the sights quiet (not moving) when the trigger breaks the shot. He stated new shooters get too caught up in pulling the trigger too long because they are attempting to shoot bullseyes and when they don't they get frustrated. You can pull that trigger for 99% of the pull, but when that last 1% dips because of flinch over-gripping you never will hit the target.

Personally at times I am easily discouraged when I can't master something, but not so with being new to shooting myself. I spent two years shooting here and there w poor results and some glimmers of hope. I have spent more time recently learning to keep the sights quiet w dry-fire practice and things are improving. Do I practice a lot? No, so my results are slow. What you put in is what you get out.

I would spend some time doing boring dry-fire exercises prior to putting a grand into a firearm. Learn your craft w what you have, so that you are that much better w more expensive equipment is my opinion.

Good topic and good luck w your decision whatever it may be.

 

[Najataagihe]

You have gotten some good advice - train before purchase.

In addition to dry fire and snap caps, consider a cheap $40 laser bore sight.

Pop that puppy in the barrel, point it at a wall and stop that red light from bouncing.

IMMEDIATE feedback and you don't need an observer.

(Do I need to mention "clear the firearm" before training? I hope not.)

As you get better, increase the distance to the wall.

When you can keep that laser within a 1" circle at 10 yards, THEN start launching some boolyets.

Good luck and DON'T FORGET TO HAVE FUN !!!

 

[maddmatter1970]

this is a great question, in my opinion. A .22 will help of the same action. Slow and steady till you hit where you want more often than not.
1) nothing beats volume, trigger time under live fire until you get it right
2) sight picture and trigger control work together and often are confused (make sure sight picture is correct 1st)
3) it should surprise you when it bangs, breathing counts, and follow through.

these pics are useful as well

ps all for a revolver but a .22lr conversion is made for the glock, I would look at that 1st. But no harm in the .22 revolver

 

[Tu_S]

For the OP's stated goal, as an alternative to a revolver or any firearm, I would suggest getting a good pellet gun and pellet trap. You can line up the sights and concentrate on keeping them lined up as you pull the trigger and the thing fires, where having almost no recoil, you practice until the sights pretty much stay lined up even after the pellet has hit the target.

Since it's cheap and something you can do at home whenever you want, saving a trip to the range, with enough practice you build the muscle memory which will translate directly to what you need to do at the range, the basic mechanics of it are the same.

Of course when it comes to flinching and pulling things, I usually just tell people to concentrate on the goal of getting to the point where the last thing you see is the sights still lined up against the muzzle flash, which will happen before the recoil forces start moving things around.

 

[Series6]

My competition gun had a Gold Cup slide. My gunsmith recommended loads of dry fire practice and occasionally placing a quarter on the flat surface then operating the trigger.
Made major improvement in trigger control.
Apparently in the old days, bullseye shooters used to balance coins on the front sight.

 

[Najataagihe]

My gunsmith recommended loads of dry fire practice and occasionally placing a quarter on the flat surface then operating the trigger.

Dime...standing...unsupported...round barrel.

Apparently in the old days, bullseye shooters used to balance coins on the front sight.

Not just bullseye shooters...

 

[hiketheball]

I'm new-er to guns and realize that I need to work more on trigger control, because my point of impact is not where I would like it to be. I shoot primarily the Glock 17.

I'm thinking that a .22LR revolver would be good for this goal, because they have high double action trigger pulls. In particular, I read the Ruger LCR and LCRx .22LR has a large trigger pull and the light frame is unforgiving as to point of impact penalties.

At the same time, I'm not fixated on getting an LCR/x. My LGS has them ($620 for 3" frame) and one S&W Model 617 6" ($1,099, but they'll flex on price). By the way, I'm in California, where the prices for everything are bonkers, roster notwithstanding.

Thanks!

A lesson from a certified, high-level instructor would be cheaper, more fun, and longer lasting.
From my experience, .22lr pistols are too light for that kind of work/practice. A heavier & longer revolver would be better -- S&W 617, etc. A 38 or 357 revolver would be better but all these revolvers are significantly more expensive than lessons. I think shooting with your G17 and having an instructor (who can do this) analyze what you're doing and helping you correct deficiencies is the best way to go. Adding another handgun into the issues might add to the problems.
As an aside, try rental guns (if a range in California can rent firearms). By renting pistols, I learned that I naturally shoot full-sized CZ 75s much better than full-sized P320, even the Legion model.