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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I just got my Alaskan recently via Gunbroker. After picking it up from my dealer, I got it home and started measuring. Turns out, what I initially noticed in cylinder play was actually out of spec end shake. It was 6.5 thousandths out of spec. Not to worry…. I’ve been here before and Ruger is currently taking care of it. Actually, this is the second trip back. The first time, they did fix the end shake but it came back with a bigger b/c gap. Even though it was still “in spec” I was upset about the now larger b/c gap of .009 so I sent them an email explaining. They called me the next day and said they would be happy to fix that and would have their top hand working on it. I love Ruger service and eagerly await my new Alaskan’s return.
It was shipped off almost immediately so I haven’t had a chance to snap the obligatory pictures. My apologies.
 

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RSRH's-.480 Alaskan & 7.5", RRH-.44 Mag. , GP100-.357 Mag., 10-22
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apteacher,

I too recently purchased an Alaskan on Gunbroker. Having installed cylinder, trigger, hammer dog and hammer shims on all my Ruger wheel guns, (4" GP100 .357 mag, 7.5" RH .44 mag and 7.5" SRH .480 Ruger ), I did the same to my Alaskan .480 Ruger.
I reduced my endshake to nearly indistinguishable 0.001" with a B/C gap of between 0.006" and 0.007". This, along with reducing the play in my trigger, hammer dog and hammer and putting everything in near perfect alignment with zero wobble and frame rub. All this would be a waste of time and money if it didn't improve accuracy, right? So, I'm punching a .75" hole with 3 shot groups at 1050 ft/sec with a 410 grain WFN-GC hard cast from a bench rest at 25 yards. Heck, in addition to deterring bears, this might become my new pig gun!

Check out Triggershims.com
 

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TriggerShims is a great company. Gotten 3 sets from them. As for the hammer shim, I was able to get thicker shims on the hammer of my Alaskan by sliding them in from the trigger guard side. I am thinking it was .004 or .006 thicker from that side. You can get rid of scraping, dragging and such for just a couple bucks not to mention smooth things out more.
 

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When a firearm is replaced by the mfg. and sent to an FFL, do you have to pay the dealer for the transfer? I have never seen this question asked/answered.
 

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When a firearm is replaced by the mfg. and sent to an FFL, do you have to pay the dealer for the transfer? I have never seen this question asked/answered.
This exchange shouldn’t have to go through an FFL. Manufacturer will ship directly to the owner. I believe this to be true. Someone else on here can confirm or correct me.
 

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Pretty certain this kind of exchange is done that way IF the owner shipped the original firearm directly to the manufacturer without having gone through an FFL. You can legally ship to a manufacturer for repairs and such without going through an FFL and the manufacturer returns it directly to you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
This exchange shouldn’t have to go through an FFL. Manufacturer will ship directly to the owner. I believe this to be true. Someone else on here can confirm or correct me.
Since it is a different gun, it must go through a FFL. It is a different serial.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I didn't know that it went directly to you. Thank you for the information.
Only if it is already your gun, and your state allows that. In this case, my original gun could have come back to me but not fit the replacement. It’s a different serial and must got to the ffl.
 
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