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Discussion Starter #1
Hello from the left side of the country! It's closer to North Korea than any other state save Hawaii!

I just bought a brand new 5026 and brought it home yesterday after the 10 day save my soul wait.

I found the gun was inoperable when loaded. It operates as expected when empty DA and SA. If you put snap caps in, or any size ammo ( I checked many different ammo)...it will not allow for rotation of the cylinder. Mind you...this has never been fired. So I tried to localize the difficulty...loaded 3 snap caps in and it processed in DA fine till the first case came around the the 6 am position and hit the back wall. Then all would cease with no ability to use the action in SA or DA. This happened with any size bullet/case I put in. I researched this form of binding in the net....and I could not find this type. I found the bulging expended case issues, the dirt under the star extractor, the heated cone cylinder interaction yada yada.......but no one with the cold bullet case base unable to pass the back of the gun!

So I called Ruger today.....they were wonderfully helpful.....said they had never heard of that form of binding before and arranged to have it transported back to NH.

Any thoughts would be appreciated. I saved long and hard for this handgun hunting beauty. This is my second Ruger...as I have a wonderful GP100 4.2".
 

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Welcome!

Sounds like your big problem is on the way to being solved.

No words of wisdom as I'm a semi-auto guy.:cool:

I know 1 thing, Ruger will make it right.
 

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Welcome from Florida!

As the others have said, let Ruger fix it. Could be your firing pin isn't retracting for some reason??? I don't know, let the professionals look at it :)
 

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Mine also had the same problem when loaded with Tipton snap caps. But it works fine with live ammo. I just figured the snap caps were not seating as deep in the chambers as real ammo.

I fired 50 rounds of Fiocchi 240 gr, SJSP through it with no cylinder binding.

In comparing the Fiocchi ammo to the snap caps, the primer cap on the snap caps appears to protrude just ever so slightly above the base of the snap cap. The primer cap was completely level with the base of the Fiocchi ammo. Also, the cartridge rim on the snap cap looked to be just a hair thicker than that on the real ammo. So, that was probably the issue.
 

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If you do not get the problem worked out like said. Ruger will get it correct and returned in a very quick and reasonable time frame.
Welcome to the forum from the free state of Kentucky. :)
 

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I've seen this with a new gun, and the one I saw do this was 'cured' by holding the star at it's furthest extended point and blasting underneath with compressed air...

My theory is either packing grease, or a small manufacturing metal shaving holding the star up just far enough to cause the binding...
 

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I would at least take the gun out and try it before sending it back. I've had guns that didn't seem right when cycling snap caps and live ammo through them that were 100% fine at the range.
 

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Sounds like a headspace problem if other factors are elminiated. Either that or on the ammo the primers are protruding and on the snap caps the "case"head is not to spec. As both are unlikely probably headspace then. "
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Everyone's input and welcome is deeply appreciated.

The unique finding in this case......I have put multiple different ammo and snap caps in.....if there is any ammo in the 7 am position when viewed from the grip......as you either pull the trigger or single action cock the hammer....it will jam immediately as the back of the ammo...(again many different kinds of ammo) all hit the back wall and freeze the cylinder....the ammo tries to move from 7am to 6 am but can't as it approaches the back left wall. Now....if I empty everything out.....it will perform flawlessly with SA and DA dry fire with no ammo or snap caps in the cylinders.
 

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Had same problem when cartridges reached the 6 o'clock position. The
recoil shield had a burr at that position. With a little needle file work,
the loaded cylinder rotated fine.

This problem, tight or rough bottom of the recoil shield, was noted though rare on a number of Blackhawks/Vaqueros back in my playing cowboy days.

If in testing the rounds are always placed near the top on the right for
the left rotation the problem may not be spotted, or so I theorize.

Piglet, see if there's any "scraping" on the brass when it hits and perhaps jams into the 6 o'clock position.
 

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I had this problem once long ago. Turned out it was my fault. I had mistakenly used small rifle primersinstead os pistol primers and they protruded just enough to rub on the frame making it impossible to turn the cylinder using either the trigger or in DA mode.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Had same problem when cartridges reached the 6 o'clock position. The
recoil shield had a burr at that position. With a little needle file work,
the loaded cylinder rotated fine.

This problem, tight or rough bottom of the recoil shield, was noted though rare on a number of Blackhawks/Vaqueros back in my playing cowboy days.

If in testing the rounds are always placed near the top on the right for
the left rotation the problem may not be spotted, or so I theorize.

Piglet, see if there's any "scraping" on the brass when it hits and perhaps jams into the 6 o'clock position.

I think you may be the closest to what the physics of this event is revealing. I just put the snap cap in and watched where it catches.....it's right against the back wall as the angular shaped back wall heads for the center placement. I cannot get it to scratch....but the back wall is a bit on the 'rough' side and when I put the snap all the ways in under force...I can't get the cylinder to lock well or the cylinder release to let up all the time.....it is hitting the back wall for sure. Also...the star has put a nice angled line on the back wall since I've been opening and closing it. I also note at the back bottom of the frame...it looks like a weld almost where the 90 degree bottom turn from back wall to bottom strap occurs....a little bit poorly done...but doesn't seem to impact the events we are talking about.:eek:
 

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I think you may be the closest to what the physics of this event is revealing. I just put the snap cap in and watched where it catches.....it's right against the back wall as the angular shaped back wall heads for the center placement. I cannot get it to scratch....but the back wall is a bit on the 'rough' side and when I put the snap all the ways in under force...I can't get the cylinder to lock well or the cylinder release to let up all the time.....it is hitting the back wall for sure. Also...the star has put a nice angled line on the back wall since I've been opening and closing it. I also note at the back bottom of the frame...it looks like a weld almost where the 90 degree bottom turn from back wall to bottom strap occurs....a little bit poorly done...but doesn't seem to impact the events we are talking about.:eek:
That angled line from opening and closing it is common to Rugers and Smiths. The star's center post drags slightly on the recoil shield and then
snaps into the center recess for lockup.
 

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Ruger will fix it but it sounds like you have a too small gap between the rear of the cylinder and the back of the cylinder window. Ie the rims of the cartridge my be rubbing against the back of the cylinder opening.
 

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Piglet,

Now that it seems the lower part of the recoil shield may be at fault, move
a finger tip gently over the area and see if you detect any burrs. Those can
be removed with a few strokes of a needle file.

If the bottom of the shield seems unusually rough, again that area can be filed down just a hair but just to be sure, I'd send it back to Ruger. Explain what
you think is the problem to Ruger if you agree with me.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
It is an unfinished feeling mildly roughed entire back plate metal. I cannot discern a sharp burr. However...with my old eyes.....as I look very carefully...there is a small notch forming from rubbing of the case against the back wall on the 'second shelf' up from the bottom on the port side of the back wall.....hope that made sense....I think I can see that it is 'generally' hitting an incorrectly finished back wall right as it starts on the edge in the middle of that 2nd step. Definitely a Ruger project or replacement.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Again.....thank you so much for the input regarding my new 5026.

UPS just picked up my Ruger and I will report back as new information is developed.

What a great forum!!
 

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I think the diagnosis shared are all pretty spot on in regards to a tolerancing issue. But I STRONGLY suggest returning firearm to Ruger (They will react rather quickly, I am confident) as opposed to doing any metal removal or filing yourself. Ruger needs to diagnose and correct to both A) Fix this and keep firearm under warranty and B) Probably create documentation to prevent anything like this from shipping out to anyone else.
Be a little (more) patient. Long term you will be glad you did.
Willie
 
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