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Discussion Starter #1
Recently bought a brand new super Black hawk bisley Hunter in 44 mag. Super excited to take it out to the range. Made it out there today only to almost have a catastrophic failure. I'm a new revolver shooter so I'm not sure what could of caused this. I shot the first 6 rounds and everything went fine. The next 6 I had 2 failures to fire (Thought I had miscounted my shots due to excitement?). Unloaded the empty shells, and saw 2 unfired rounds. Thought it was weird but I reloaded them in and added 4 more. Went 6 more "shots" of firing, with 3 misses. At this point I realized something was off. Didn't realize how lucky I was though. The last round that wasn't hit in the center, was hit 3/4 of the way, the other misfire right on the edge. If it had ignited the gun would of fired misaligned and exploded in my hands for sure.

I called the range officer over, who was a cowboy action shooter, to see what he thought and he immediately made me take the gun off the line. He said he's never seen anything like that before. He asked if he could have the almost misfired bullet for the pistol safety class he teaches.

Needless to say I was pretty shaken at how close I came to a disaster, and was thanking the powers above that nothing happened.

Any insight into what kind could of caused this? I took pictures of the rounds and what I think is an odd cylinder wear pattern? Let me know what else I should take a picture of if if you guys have any insight. Will also be contacting ruger Monday morning. Thanks.

(First picture is an unfired round)
 

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Yeah, I plan on contacting them for sure. I've never had to with my other Rugers. Just hoping they can do something.
 

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Had to look up what slip hammering was. Definitely not what I was doing. Was firing slow deliberate shots. Finger off the trigger while cocking.

Just to give more information, I'm playing with it right now trying the replicate the problem empty. If I cock the gun slowly there is no slip at all on cylinder and everything stays firm/aligned. If I cock the gun faster (not slamming but a normal firm cock) the cylinder seems to over spin? It then is in free spin and I manually have to spin it forward til it reaches the next cylinder detent and clicks in.

Also is having a wear pattern on the cylinder wall like that normal?
 

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Ok, I think your spring is either weak, obstructed, or broken that brings your cylinder stop into place.

The ring is a normal occurrence on most Rugers. There is a fix for that, by lengthening a rod on th hammer. But, I wouldn't recommend that you attempt that modification yet.

WR
 

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Had to look up what slip hammering was. Definitely not what I was doing. Was firing slow deliberate shots. Finger off the trigger while cocking.

Just to give more information, I'm playing with it right now trying the replicate the problem empty. If I cock the gun slowly there is no slip at all on cylinder and everything stays firm/aligned. If I cock the gun faster (not slamming but a normal firm cock) the cylinder seems to over spin? It then is in free spin and I manually have to spin it forward til it reaches the next cylinder detent and clicks in.

Also is having a wear pattern on the cylinder wall like that normal?

No, thats not normal at all. Contact Ruger and show them the photo.
 

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Ok, I think your spring is either weak, obstructed, or broken that brings your cylinder stop into place.

The ring is a normal occurrence on most Rugers. There is a fix for that, by lengthening a rod on th hammer. But, I wouldn't recommend that you attempt that modification yet.

WR

If you look, the turn ring is not centered with the locking notch. Looks like it was milled off location.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Ok, I think your spring is either weak, obstructed, or broken that brings your cylinder stop into place.

The ring is a normal occurrence on most Rugers. There is a fix for that, by lengthening a rod on th hammer. But, I wouldn't recommend that you attempt that modification yet.

WR
I think youre right. While watching and cocking it, that's exactly the issue. The cylinder stop doesn't engage and it seems to skip a chamber. To my eye it looks as if the stop is actually misaligned with the detents in the cylinder and is sitting too far towards the hammer. Even the wear pattern on the cylinder shows it wearing off center that way too. Is the cylinder stop something that could be improperly adjusted from the factory? Or did I just get a faulty part?
 

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Was the gun thoroughly cleaned before shooting? Almost as if the pawl was not fully engaging/rotating the cylinder. Sticky pawl plunger? Does cylinder rotate freely? I had a single six do the same thing. It was a used gun at purchase. I had noticed before firing it that the cylinder was not fully locking up. Firing pin was hitting between chambers. When I pulled the grip frame off I found that the pawl spring was pinched between cylinder frame and grip frame. Without enough spring tension on the pawl plunger the pawl would slip off the cylinder ratchet and fail to rotate the cylinder completely. New spring and all was good.

I am not a gunsmith. Just sharing a similar experience.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Was the gun thoroughly cleaned before shooting? Almost as if the pawl was not fully engaging/rotating the cylinder. Sticky pawl plunger? Does cylinder rotate freely? I had a single six do the same thing. It was a used gun at purchase. I had noticed before firing it that the cylinder was not fully locking up. Firing pin was hitting between chambers. When I pulled the grip frame off I found that the pawl spring was pinched between cylinder frame and grip frame. Without enough spring tension on the pawl plunger the pawl would slip off the cylinder ratchet and fail to rotate the cylinder completely. New spring and all was good.

I am not a gunsmith. Just sharing a similar experience.
The only thing I did prior to shooting was some clp and patch through the barrel. It was bought brand new. I can check if the spring is caught in the grip? When it misses the detent, the cylinder spins freely in both directions until it catches the next detent front or back. With the loading gate open it spins freely, closed it looks up tight. While cocking the clinder it feels tightly cogged and won't free spin. It only happens at full hammer cock with a normal/firm cock speed. If the spring was caught, would that render it damaged? Could I see that by looking at the grip somehow?
 

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The only thing I did prior to shooting was some clp and patch through the barrel. It was bought brand new. I can check if the spring is caught in the grip? When it misses the detent, the cylinder spins freely in both directions until it catches the next detent front or back. With the loading gate open it spins freely, closed it looks up tight. While cocking the clinder it feels tightly cogged and won't free spin. It only happens at full hammer cock with a normal/firm cock speed. If the spring was caught, would that render it damaged? Could I see that by looking at the grip somehow?
Easy test. Remove cylinder. Fully cock hammer. Push pawl in with finger. It should have tension on it and spring back out when released. If it stays depressed or if you tilt the gun the forward and back and the pawl moves in and out at all. Something is wrong with spring and or plunger.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
The only thing I did prior to shooting was some clp and patch through the barrel. It was bought brand new. I can check if the spring is caught in the grip? When it misses the detent, the cylinder spins freely in both directions until it catches the next detent front or back. With the loading gate open it spins freely, closed it looks up tight. While cocking the clinder it feels tightly cogged and won't free spin. It only happens at full hammer cock with a normal/firm cock speed. If the spring was caught, would that render it damaged? Could I see that by looking at the grip somehow?
Easy test. Remove cylinder. Fully cock hammer. Push pawl in with finger. It should have tension on it and spring back out when released. If it stays depressed or if you tilt the gun the forward and back and the pawl moves in and out at all. Something is wrong with spring and or plunger.
Moves in after first 1/4 of cock and pops back out firmly after 1/2 way cocked. Seems to have good pressure as well. It looks off center in the opening though. Could it be that?
 

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The picture of your cylinder stop tells me that is the problem. The shape should be more of a 1/2 moon and not that of a 1/4 circle. That is also why the scribe showing up on your cylinder is also not in the center of your cylinder notches.
Ruger will undoubtedly want it back to correct the problem.

WR
 

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I'm with turnkey and Wrangler Rich: the cylinder lock dragmarks aren't centered on the notch. I don't think the cylinder is locking up correctly - or at all. Time to talk with Ruger.
 

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I've had to send multiple revolvers back to Ruger for different reasons over the past couple years. Never due to something like this though. That would have been nasty if one of those rounds had actually fired.

Send it back.
 

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Turnkey is right on the money as to your gun's problem. Send it back to Ruger and hopefully you will get a new gun.
 
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