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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok gentleman. I am proud to announce that I am now an owner of a center fire single action. I'm am super pumped to get into big bore handguns. I picked up a 1975 production date 7.5" super blackhawk 44 mag, recessed chambers. It's mint, basically unfired. Even has original box and owners manual. My plan is to shorten it to 4.75" or so.

I am having a ting of second thoughts, but 7.5" just seems so impractical to me. I bought a pre warning sbh so I could get the bigger grip.

I have already started on new grips for it, and deciding between front sight options and holsters.

My sight options are as follows-
Interchangeable

weigand sight base, Aggie01 sight base,

Fixed - .595 ruger, and 2dogs

Anyone have any thoughts on sights?

Here are some pics
image by jt671987, on Flickr
image by jt671987, on Flickr
image by jt671987, on Flickr
image by jt671987, on Flickr
image by jt671987, on Flickr
 

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Ruger Tinkerer
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Congratulations on the new-to-you SBH! Looks like a beauty! I would use a Ruger front sight base and screw it to the barrel and call it good. Are you gonna re-blue after the nose job or just touch up the new muzzle and crown with cold blue? I personally like the dragoon frame on the 7.5 and 10.5 barrel guns but it's yours to set up any way you like. Keep us up to date as things progress.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I want to just screw, or even glue the front sight on. I know that sound crazy, but guys seem to be having good luck with epoxies. Anyhow, I would just touch up the muzzle.

I really do like the dragoon frame size on for grip, and even looks.
 

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I'd keep it as is and buy a new SBH with a 4 5/8 barrel! Where in PA are you? I used to live there.
 

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Yeah Bob has some real beauties doesn't he? And he loves the dragoon frame too. I'm on board. I'm leery about epoxies and metal. JB Weld maybe but I would still drill, tap and screw on a front sight. They don't cost much and if you're able to cut a barrel, face it and crown it you should be able to drill and tap a couple of holes for a front sight. Buy a couple of bottom taps - they break easy.
 

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If you are unsure about the 7.5 barrel, you need to spend some time shooting it to be sure you want to cut it, pretty hard to make it 7.5 again after as I'm sure you know....

I have a 7.5 SBH just like yours but made around 2001, I love it, it shoots great. IMO...

As I was saying I love my 7.5 44 mag SBH, but this is such a beauty ! Link..

RUGER SUPER BLACKHAWK 44 MAGNUM - RUKS45N - 0811 - UPC:736676008117 - Lipseys.com
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Yeah Bob has some real beauties doesn't he? And he loves the dragoon frame too. I'm on board. I'm leery about epoxies and metal. JB Weld maybe but I would still drill, tap and screw on a front sight. They don't cost much and if you're able to cut a barrel, face it and crown it you should be able to drill and tap a couple of holes for a front sight. Buy a couple of bottom taps - they break easy.
Yeh I am thinking about a weigand base, which is drill and tap.
 

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Congrats on your newest! :)

I prefer the shorter barrels as I use them more as a packing gun than target or hunting gun, but I second the suggestion to shoot it as is first.
 

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My gunsmith told me JB Weld doesn't work to hold on sights because the barrel gets hot, expands slightly and pops the sight off the barrel. No idea if that's true or not, I'd do the drill/tap instead.

I'd cut it, 7.5" blued SBH are very common, finding a factory shorter version will not be cheaper as cutting a 7.5" yourself. With the number of 7.5" SBH on the used market, I'll bet your cut-down SBH will have better resale than stock.
 

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Why not just silver solder on another front base, just like the original one was? It's not rocket science - if it ain't broke, don't redesign it. Sucks to have to reblue it, but you'll have to do something after you hack and redress the crown anyway.

The Weigand base is good, no reason to be afraid of D&T either. If you silver solder or D&T, you won't ever have the need to kick yourself for betting on the wrong horse. If you use epoxy, you might find your own boot prints on your backside when your front sight flies off after a shot. D&T wouldn't require a reblue just for that, but again, when you hack, square, crown, and bevel that muzzle, you're probably going to need more than some cold blue to keep it looking proper.
 

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Why not just silver solder on another front base, just like the original one was? It's not rocket science - if it ain't broke, don't redesign it....
Most of us don't have the tools, much less the ability to do a challenging soldering task such as this. That's why the tap and screw is attractive.

It takes an ox-acetylene torch to get enough heat into a gun barrel for the silver solder to flow. A propane or MAP gas touch isn't going to work, there's just not enough BTUs to heat up the end of the barrel enough to get silver solder to flow. Might work if the barrel is removed but with the extra mass of the frame, no way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
My gunsmith told me JB Weld doesn't work to hold on sights because the barrel gets hot, expands slightly and pops the sight off the barrel. No idea if that's true or not, I'd do the drill/tap instead.

I'd cut it, 7.5" blued SBH are very common, finding a factory shorter version will not be cheaper as cutting a 7.5" yourself. With the number of 7.5" SBH on the used market, I'll bet your cut-down SBH will have better resale than stock.
After watching gunbroker for 6months +, I would totally agree with you. That is why I got this as cheap as I did.
 

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Most of us don't have the tools, much less the ability to do a challenging soldering task such as this. That's why the tap and screw is attractive.

It takes an ox-acetylene torch to get enough heat into a gun barrel for the silver solder to flow. A propane or MAP gas touch isn't going to work, there's just not enough BTUs to heat up the end of the barrel enough to get silver solder to flow. Might work if the barrel is removed but with the extra mass of the frame, no way.
I've been silver soldering gunsights with handheld propane and MAP gas bottles for over 10yrs. Tell me again how it doesn't work?

It's $150 for a williams centering scissor jig and if you're doing your job right and single using taps - of which you need at least 2 if not 3 for bottoming holes in a front sight job - you'll have around $200 into the first D&T job too. Not that bad even if you need an Oxy set up for cost.

Skillset is a different story, but I'm prone to believe if I can manage to get it done successfully, then it can't be that hard.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I've been silver soldering gunsights with handheld propane and MAP gas bottles for over 10yrs. Tell me again how it doesn't work?

It's $150 for a williams centering scissor jig and if you're doing your job right and single using taps - of which you need at least 2 if not 3 for bottoming holes in a front sight job - you'll have around $200 into the first D&T job too. Not that bad even if you need an Oxy set up for cost.

Skillset is a different story, but I'm prone to believe if I can manage to get it done successfully, then it can't be that hard.
Maybe I am underestimating a drill and tap job, but i have done many a hole in other things. I do not thing its absolutely needed to have the scissor jig, and i am not sure why you need 3 taps. Patience and goo cutting oil makes a huge difference when tapping a hole.
 
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