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Discussion Starter #1
I own a New Vaquero polished SS in 45 Colt, it is my 1st, although I have owned several New Model Blackhawks. I have tried to do an action job,( hammer, trigger, springs) and noticed that I cannot remove the trigger pin, it appears to be peened to prevent removal. Is this Ruger's new thing to prevent changing part's. I've never run across this on any other Blackhawk's that I worked on. Please comment and Thank You.
 

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Are you depressing the loading gate detent spring when trying to remove the trigger pin? The Trigger pin is cut to prevent walking, retained by the loading gate detent spring.



I've never seen one peened in any way, no idea why Ruger would start doing so, as the pin was designed to be retained anyway, and they're not really averse to modification - just averse to offering factory service on customization.
 

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Depressing the spring is the way you always remove the trigger pin on a New Model BH (since '73). Old Model used screws. I actually broke down and bought a small tool that hold it down nicely while you remove pin without holding the frame, depressing the spring, and trying to push out the pin all at the same time.
 

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Welcome to the forum.

GATE SPRING: A few tips based on my experiences:

1. the 3rd hand jig takes more time than it's worth. The small tip screwdriver used as shown in video below is miraculously easy with just two hands or the frame can be held in a padded vise to really make it simple. A little practice with the technique is the key here.

2. the first disassembly is always the worst. The pins are supposed to be slip fit, if they aren't, the first time they come out they get a thorough polish (like they are in the video!) Never need a hammer, just a paper clip or punch to push them in and out with my fingers. See #8 below for things that make the pins hang up.

3. bevel both sharp edges of the trigger/cyl bolt pin groove for ease of releasing the pesky spring.
If I'm not removing the cyl bolt, or gate spring, just trigger/transfer bar, I always leave the pin partially in the frame keeping the spring under tension, with pin sticking out on the loading gate side.

4. the current production has a new divot in the top of the trigger guard for the elbow of the fork in the spring for a better fit. Before that some of the springs came filed on the elbow.

5. Leave cyl pin in the gun to avoid frustration with transfer bar hanging up on firing pin preventing hammer from cocking.

6. Pawl spring must go in plunger 1st, you know that, but it's a common error.

7. Always unhook both legs of the trigger spring for reassembly of grip frame.

8. always check the grip frame screw holes for machining chips left in them (especially stainless guns) from threading the holes, for clean out if present. The two screw holes behind the trigger guard usually have huge rollover burrs from drilling the hammer pin hole and milling the frame. This will cause screws to screw in too tight and/or break off.

Install all five screws but do not cinch them tight. Align the grip frame edges flush with the cyl frame by tapping with the butt of a plastic handled screw driver. Tighten one trigger guard screw, then front screw and then one ear screw. Then tighten them all.

9. and lastly: MY SHORTCUT FOR REMOVING JUST HAMMER and/or PAWL:
Recognize, you do not need to hassle with the PESKY LOADING GATE SPRING, pull the trigger pin, OR trigger/transfer bar JUST to remove the hammer and pawl. Once you remove the grip frame, the hammer pin is the only other part you need to remove. After that, just pull the hammer back and all the way down, then depress the hammer plunger in the base of the hammer with a small tipped screwdriver to clear the trigger extension where the transfer bar connects to it. Let the hammer & pawl fall out. Install in reverse! Piece o’ cake.

Note: I always check the grip frame screw holes for machining chips left in them (especially stainless guns) from threading the holes for cleaning out if present. The two screw holes behind the trigger guard usually have huge rollover burrs from drilling the hammer pin hole and milling the frame. This will cause screws to screw in too tight and/or break off.

View or request Owner’s Manual here: Instruction Manuals & Product History


Factory Videos: Good New Model Ruger disassembly:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UfOXBa8K8Ow

NM Reassembly (shows hammer plunger assembly too):

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3zEKDqwkgEs&feature=related
 

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the 3rd hand jig takes more time than it's worth
Well, after a lot of years with using a screw driver, I felt the jig worked great :) . YMMV of course. But I'll have to try the technique in the video... Never thought of wedging a punch to depress/keep depressed the spring... I always just tried to keep pressure on the spring with a screw driver, and then remove! Always learning....
 

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I am blessed with actual fingernails so I can simply grasp the frame in one hand, depress the gate spring with my thumbnail and push out the trigger pin with the other hand.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I wish to thank everyone who posted with helpful information and video. It has been a lot of years since I have taken apart my Rugers. Believe me I have never remembered pushing down springs to disassemble a Blackhawk, but it makes sense. Several surgeries and much pain dulls the mind, I must apologize, but I am no newbie to this game. I can still shoot well and intend on doing so for some time to come. Again Thank You
 
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