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Discussion Starter #1
Hey all. I know this is a Ruger forum, but many here have exhibited great knowledge of other brands too, so I thought I'd give an ask here.

One gun I've always meant to look into, and sometime contemplate buying has been the Browning Hi-Power in 9mm.

I've fired a couple of them, and found them to be a nice slim alternative to the chunky tupperware guns. (I also have a Glock 19C which I DO like much)

Today, I came across a nice looking one used for $449. It looks to have had little use, the bluing only has a couple very tiny (smaller than a hair) scratches, and the mags show very little use too. It came home with me. :D

My questions are:

1. Any idea as to the date of manufacture? (SN 245PN625XX)

2. The trigger seems pretty heavy. I've heard that removing the mag disconnect can improve the trigger pull. Is this easy, and advisable to do (paper-punching and bowling pins mainly)? If so, are there any online tutorials on doing this?

Thanks!

Oh, here's a pic of it:

 

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You got a plum, Bud!!! I'd buy another now that they're ambi if I could find one like that -good price-great grips-love the Pachys---I took my disconnect out myself but that was the 70's-Calling Iowegan!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Don't think it's very old-seems the ambi safetys came out 6 or 7 years ago-with the first .40s, I think---I don't know if they research at Browning or not but I'd try them.....
 

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Here's the key for Browning serial numbers for guns made after 1976:

For Japanese made guns: Several digits followed by two letters and three more numbers. example 123456RV245. The first digits are the actual serial number, the two letters are the date code, and the last three digits are the product code.

For US and Europe made guns, the product code comes first, then two letters, then the actual serial number. Your gun's S/N indicates a US or Europe made gun, product code 245 (Sport Model), made in 1989, the 625xx th one off the prodution line for that year.

Date codes: Z=1, Y=2, X=3, W=4, V=5, T=6, R=7, P=8, N=9, M=0

Model Code for the HP, 215 = Military issue, 245 = Sport Model

The Browning HP is quite a gun. Although I'm not a big 9mm fan, this gun will do a good job for you. The gun goes back to a combination of a John Browning design in 1922 and an FN redesign in 1928. The first Hi-Powers were made by FN in Belgium. Here's another Browning design that has stood the test of time like the 1911. It is in the 78th year of production and still kickin'. In 1995, they started making the HP in 40 S&W.

$449 is a decent price considering New MSRP is $863.
 

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Tweek, Personally, I'd leave the mag disconnect alone. The way the gun is designed, you can get a really nice trigger by buffing the sear and lowering the hammer spring tension. Wolff sells a reduced power mainspring that works very nice.

Just another comment on "value". Browning HPs don't have a very high resale value. They are a "sleeper" in my opinion. You get a hell of a lot of gun for the price. Grips, sights, magazines, and other after market parts are very available. I think the reason for cheap prices is a lot of PDs traded in their Browning 9mms for Glock 40 S&Ws. A few years ago you could buy police trade-in for $200 in decent condition. Now in CDNN's catalog, dealer cost is $400 (used).
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks Iowegan. I'll give your suggestions a try. I just had it apart for an initial cleaning/inspection, and it looks real good. I really like the feel of this gun. It's kind of compact, but yet has some heft to it. Can't wait to try it out!
 

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Thats a good lookin' gun, Tweek. One of my shootin' buddies has one & it works pretty good. Iowegan always has some good advice. Listen to what he has to say & enjoy your new pistol!
 

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Tweek
That Browning would sure make a nice ccw gun in a iwb holster. Very nice.
 

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I'm not a fan of the 9MM but I do have a high-power and love it. The magazine disconnect can be removed for a better trigger but if you ever have to use the gun in a confrontation, the lawyers will do a number on you.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Well, I ordered the Wolff shooters pak of hammer springs, should be in by the end of the week. Just polished up the sear a little bit, and that alone sees to have taken some of the hardness/heaviness out of the pull. Man, that sear is a real treat to get back in! I ended up putting a zip-tie thru the grip opening to hold both the sear spring, and the hammer rearward.

Not sure if I dare go further to do the mainspring. Is there much more involved? Can the mainspring be replaced without removing the hammer? It looks like there's a vertical roll pin in the right side of the ambi safety that would have to be removed?
 

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Tweek, Yup, with the slide off, push the vertical pin out of the right side safety. Pulling on the left side will remove the safety which is also the pivot pin for the hammer. Make sure the hammer is fully forward before you pull the safety out. Once you get the hammer out, the spring falls off. You can then get at the hammer sear notch and dress it up too.
 
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