[Tweek]

I'm hoping maybe Iowegan or some other person with more knowledge on Browning Hi-Powers than I can give me a hand here.

I purchased and installed a Cylinder & Slide wide combat trigger on my BHP. Since then, I'm having trigger reset issues. It seems the trigger will nor reset unless it is completely forward when the slide cycles (almost impossible to achieve under live-fire conditions).

The only way I can get it to reset is when dry-firing, and cycling the slide after releasing the trigger. I've emailed C&S, but thought someone here may have an idea too.

Thanks in advance for any help.

 

[bowhunter]

quote:Originally posted by Tweek

I'm hoping maybe Iowegan or some other person with more knowledge on Browning Hi-Powers than I can give me a hand here.

I purchased and installed a Cylinder & Slide wide combat trigger on my BHP. Since then, I'm having trigger reset issues. It seems the trigger will nor reset unless it is completely forward when the slide cycles (almost impossible to achieve under live-fire conditions).

The only way I can get it to reset is when dry-firing, and cycling the slide after releasing the trigger. I've emailed C&S, but thought someone here may have an idea too.

Thanks in advance for any help.

Tweek, It could be one or more of several issues causing your problem. Remember this trigger group has to go back in as an "assembly". That includes the trigger, trigger spring & pin, and the trigger lever. Did you also install a C&S Extra Strength trigger spring? Make sure all parts move "freely" with no drag in the group and try the original spring with the new trigger if you indeed did replace it. Check for trigger "dragging" on frame at any point. Try reinstalling the old trigger to see how it is working.You may simply have an incorrect installation issue.Make sure the trigger spring is "seated" properly on the trigger and lever. Without having the gun in my hands, that is about as far as we can go. Try these things and get back to us.....................Dick

 

[Tweek]

I'll give it good 'look & see'.

There was a bit of friction at first, the trigger would not rotate very freely at all on the pivot pin. I cleaned the holes in the trigger out a bit, the trigger has a kind of parkerized finish on it and I suspect the finish in the holes were causing friction. It rotates on the pin more freely now, but when in the gun there is still a small amount of friction coming from somewhere.

I didn't think that small amount would be the cause, as manually moving the trigger all the way forward won't allow reset.

I can sit and thumb-cock the hammer and fire all day. It's just when the slide cycles, the trigger must be all the way forward to obtain reset. If the slide cycles with the trigger held rearward (as it does in live fire), it will not reset. Pushing the trigger forward will not allow sear re-engagement.

Like I said, I'll give it another good look, and try the factory trigger again. I did not go with the spring upgrade. I've had it in and out of the gun several times, and on the last install, I slipped with my punch and now have a nasty 'oops' near the pivot pin hole on the frame. Frustration levels should have told me to 'step back' for a while.

 

[Tweek]

I 'think' I may have it narrowed down to the possibility that the trigger lever is possibly being held just a smidgen higher with the new trigger. This could explain why I can thumb-cock & dry-fire til the cows come home, but when the slide gets cycled, the trigger lever just doesn't want to re-engage the sear lever.

Looking at the mechanics of the trigger linkage, it's acting like there isn't quite enough height clearance for the trigger lever to get pushed rearward by the trigger spring into position under the sear lever.

I think dressing down the height/length of the trigger lever in very small increments may be the answer. I may try this eventually, but I'd like to hear more input on it from someone 'in the know' first. I'd hate to do this & find out it just needs a stronger spring.

C&S emailed me back and said to call their tech next week (seems everyone but me is on vacation this week - lol).

 

[bowhunter]

Tweek, Not sure if anybody ever got back to you on this problem. Here is another thing to look at. Two things need to happen in this pistol or most semi-auto's for that matter, to reset the trigger to the forward most position. The shooter needs to release the trigger in a "timely" manner and the trigger return spring has to have enough "force" to return the trigger to battery. What happens with the Hi-Power is that "if" you do not release the trigger in a timely manner, the trigger lever has a propensity in the "raised" position to be "cammed" to the side of the "sear lever" and "hang" there sometime in a sort of wedged position. That might be the very reason C&S sells an extra power trigger spring with there wider trigger. To insure the trigger lever comes back to battery. It would'nt hurt to polish lightly the sides of the trigger lever and sear lever to make things move "easier". I would'nt take anything off the top of the trigger lever or change the contour! It must be able to contact the front underside of the sear lever in order to tip the rear portion of the sear lever downward to release the "sear". Trigger levers can be obtained from Brownell's cheaply but triggers are quite expensive. At one time trigger lever work was a "factory only" proposition..........Hope this helps out..................Dick