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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I live in SW Florida. It's humid here a lot of the year. I do plan on carrying my SR9c someday (don't have my permit, yet) but for now the gun is indoors and only comes out to go to the range.

My question is whether or not I am supposed to rub gun oil on the exterior of the gun. I know I am supposed to put oil on the slide, barrel, bore, etc but don't know if I am doing enough.

I did buy a "special" cloth (made by Winchester) that has chemicals in it to help preserve the gun as you wipe it down. Personally, the cloth feels/smells like a regular ol' cloth.

Is it okay for me to put 4-6 drops on the outside of the gun and rub it in with my finger and then lightly wipe it off with a towel?
 

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Yes, you should wipe down the outside of the gun on a regular basis. I like to wipe a blued gun after every time i carry or handle it, and a stainless gun every few days or so If I'm carrying it. This will help prevent rust from developing on the gun's exterior.

I'm guessing the Winchester cloth that you are talking about is a silicone cloth, which should work fine (just be sure to buy a new one every once in a while). However most folks just keep a rag that's lightly soaked in gun oil to do the job. Just keep it in an old shoe polish or Altoid tin and you'll be good to go.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
GP100, I am sorry, I am new to this whole process.

Do I put grease AND oil on the outside of the gun? What am I greasing?
Or is this an all in one thing?
 

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Humidity

My parents live very near the Left Coast and live in a semi-underground home, humidity is a big problem, (65%) so much so that 2 very expensive shotguns rusted even with a silicone cloth treatment, scratch $2000 off thier value (each)!
If you have a collection of valuable guns buy a dehumidifer 50-200 bucks.
If you have a few guns buy some axel grease, a thin coat of thick grease on all metal parts is a cheap way to keep em rust free!
PS collect rags to wipe em up or down with!;)
 

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There is a cleaner/lubricant/protectant product called Eezox that many swear by.

It provides a dry protective coating on all treated parts that has some amazing statistics for rust prevention. The lubricity is also dry, making it good for a carry gun.
 

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Well I live in the coastal swamps of NC & I take Tetra "grease" & apply a light coat to the inside , out side & where ever else I can get it !!!

On the blue guns, probably would`nt hurt on the SS either , between sweat & water & rite now the humidity is down to 80% .
 

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There are some VERY good products out there. Having lived in the Ft Myers area myself (Bokeelia) I know about the salt air atmosphere and humidity. I never had a problem with keeping my guns rust free while living there.

Personally, if I were going to use or handle the gun very often or depend on it for a home defense weapon, I would not want it covered with grease. I use Break Free, spray the gun lightly and wipe it down with a cloth. You just need a very thin film - not a wet condition. I haven't used Eezox but have heard good things. Bass Pro in Ft Myers has Break Free and a lot of other good protectants.

To answer your basic question - yes, you need to have a protective film on the outside as well as the inside of the gun.
 

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There is a cleaner/lubricant/protectant product called Eezox that many swear by.

It provides a dry protective coating on all treated parts that has some amazing statistics for rust prevention. The lubricity is also dry, making it good for a carry gun.


I made the switch to Eezox and I am very happy with it. Take a look here...

Eezox® Gun Care - Eezox Premium Synthetic Lubricants
 

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Don't laugh....hehe! :D

I am curious if anyone has tried using a Vacuum Bag System to store their handguns?
Similar to a Cryovac system that you see with packaged foods.
We use to use a Cryovac machine years ago when we packaged prime cuts of beef.

Now a Cryovac machine is super expensive. Even the table top model we had in the 1980's was $2000.00. :eek:
(but, it was real nifty to use and for a while anyways I had all sorts of center cuts in my freezer)

Still there are Home Systems that can do this function. Just not as well as a true Cryovac one can.

Kinda Like This one HERE!

I was wondering if this is a viable solution to keep your handguns at least from rusting....?

Or even those Bag Systems where you use your vacuum cleaner to suck out the air.
Remember those commercials for that?
Where you could compress your clothes so you could pack more in your suitcase, or store clothes in your closets?
 

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Another solution that works pretty well (for me, anyway) on carry guns is car wax. Strip the gun, rub on a good coat of a good car wax, let it dry and buff off. Be careful not to get the wax into the "innards" while applying, just wax the outside. Not a permanent solution, but works very well. Wax seems to have to be reapplied once a week or so, especially on areas that rub in the holster. It's a WHOLE LOT less messy than leaving a carry gun soaked in BreakFree, anyway!

Bub
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Currently, I'm keeping my pistol stored in the factory plastic box. Is it recommended or at least a good idea to put one of those desiccant (silica gel) things to keep the moisture away?
 

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GRNDHOG,

You are thinking in the right direction. The key to preventing rust is to protect the iron in the steel and there are many ways to accomplish that. Protecting the finish on blued metals is key. Silica packets are good when the firearm is in an enclosed container and better when it is in a sealed container.

Vacuum packaging, while maybe seeming like a weird thing to do, will work also but you would only want to do that for long term storage and there is a risk of the plastic packaging being attacked by the chemicals in the oils and other applied materials that would be left on or in the firearm.

The best approaches are basically what has been suggested. Applying oil or silicone coatings creates a good moisture barrier. A good wax works well. Grease will prevent moisture but it is more difficult to apply and remove and more apt to attract dust, GPR and other abrasive particles.

Any of a number of the CLP type cleaners will leave a dry protective coating on the firearm which acts as a moisture barrier. Eezox is one example of a CLP.

Your best defense is good care of the firearm which would include any of the above mentioned preparations or a few that have yet to be mentioned. I tend to leave a heavier than normal application of CLP on the outside of my firearms which I wipe down prior to taking them out. The bad part of that method is I have to store them on or in racks/packages that will not be attacked by the chemical. I do store my weapons in a desiccated safe except for the “on duty” firearm that is stored in a single cavity lockbox by my bed. That weapon is ready to roll and protected only by a desiccant.

I hope that helps!
 

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CLP which is either BreakFree or FP-10
My Grease of choice is TW-25B
My thin Oil is Rem-Oil

I use this stuff on Glocks, Rugers & Smith & Wessons..
All Good Stuff..
Works for them all..

Carnuba car wax is also a great way of sealing metal from the elements..
 

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You said you plan to carry a SR9C right? That is a polymer framed handgun with either an alloy slide or a stainless slide if I am not totally wrong. You get ANY grease, oil, or other ( WD40 ) on that frame and you will be holding onto a greased pig. I would suspect that the manual shows lubrication points,,,,,,IMHO stick to those. A brief wipe of the slide ONLY if you like. Again IMHO the bore is in need of more protection from rust than anything else, and for that I like FP10 or even Kroil.
 

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I have been cleaning and wiping the polymer grip frames on my P95PR and my P512MKIII with the CLP cleaner I use as a general purpose solution. Grease and viscous lubricants may well make the plastic surface slippery but many of the the general lighter oils and synthetic lubricants wipe off just fine in most cases. You don't want or need a heavy coat of oil/protectant on any surfaces unless it's time to store the firearm.
 

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how about WD40?
This is a good question and has been the topic of several threads over the years. In general, you do what works for you and what fits in your comfort zone. Always research your options and remember that you will find valuable opinions, good and bad, on any product you choose. Some products get a lot of praise, some get a lot of criticism and some, like WD40 get mixed reviews.

In most cases it won’t hurt your firearm, I use it as a surface cleaner sometimes and have even used it on the surfaces of my polymer frames. I use it to clean my cleaning tools as well. WD40 does contain fish oils and it does “dry” over time and can form sticky surface deposits so, like all lubricants on firearms, if you use it, use it sparingly and remove any excess. Don’t use it for storage or long idle periods.

I am of the opinion that there are so many good firearm specific cleaning, lubricating and protecting products out there to choose from that there is no real reason to consider WD40 for those purposes. In other words, it may work just fine but there are better products for your use.
 
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