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My wife makes fun of my tweeks. She says that I start with a rifle and widdle away until it becomes a pistol!
The P345 is fine as it comes but good enough isn't quite good enough. The trigger had a little grit so I disassemled the frame parts and polished the sear and hammer with crocus cloth. No more grit! Polish rather than reshape the parts was the approach. Another thing that bothered me was a "D" shaped dent on the case mouth of about half of the cases. Examining the case under magnification uncovered a crease in the web of the case from the extractor. The extractor tension seamed good but the crease is a result of the sharp nose angle of the extractor. The approach was to lessen this dent by reshaping the nose of the extractor ever so slightly (The extractor was extreamly soft in comparison to forged 1911 extractors). It was worth the risk as the only part which would need replacing would be a new extractor if it was goofed up. It worked! Almost never is there a case mouth dent. Disclaimer: Since all guns are different, your alterations to the original design of any firearm should be approaced with caution. Your results may very so don't blame me if this does not work for you. I am not a gunsmith but a tinker!!! In addition, I polished the feed ramp with crocus wrapped over a wooden dowell. Excellent results!
Question? Has anyone experienced the loaded chamber indicator not working properly due to powder residue. Have you any suggestions besides cleaning it often to prevent the buildup? DAY
 

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One thing about Rugers, they don't spend much time with the finer details. They are a "tinker's dream". There's nothing wrong with smoothing the internal parts for better function and reliability. Be very careful if you mess with the lower frame. Ruger won't fix what you mess up and because it is the serial numbered part, you can't buy one.

With P-guns, I smooth up the breach face, dress the extractor, tear the lower frame apart and clean up all the sharp edges, galls and machine marks. I do the same in the slide.
 
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