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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
i just need you guys opinion on this.shooting the winchester white box 115 fmj factory ammo i can shoot pretty accurate at 15 yards,they are around 1150 fps.shooting 115 fmj sierra at 1200 fps just doesnt seem as accurate.do i need to load back down to the 1150 fps range?
 

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josebd ... I've had extensive experience with the P95 (13,000 rounds), and generally shoot WWB and Federal Champion with good success. How much less accurate is the Sierra by comparison?
 

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Your gun is more accurate than you are. At 15 yards I seriously doubt that your choice of ammo would cause any practical difference in accuracy.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
i had some berrys 115 fmj loaded up at 4.9 with universal clay with cci 500,win brass,shooting 1224 at 63 degrees.in cooler temp it was lower.went down to 4.7 got it down to 1146 at 63 degrees. do i need to have seperate loads for hot and cold will
the 4.9 be safe in 90-100 degrees?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
also after i seated bullet i pushed the bullet up against my work bench as hard as i could and bullet didnt move,i did not taper crimp.put them in my barrel everything was good and shot good
 

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josebd ... It didn't dawn on me until your last post that you were comparing factory loads to your reloads (Duh ... :eek:)). Since I'm not a reloader, I'll leave this question to someone more qualified (my apologies) :)
 

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You might consider posting over in the 'Reloading' section of this forum.
 

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Did you use a Chronograph to test your loads ? or get the velocity from the book ?
what's in the book is what they got, it's what they recorded and meant to get you close.
The book is not gospel and every firearm will produce different results.
Watch your OAL as the 9 mill is a high pressure round and charges can get erratic
With changes in seating dept. Pushing around against a hard surface is not a true test to check for potential set back that could raise pressure also. I wont comment on not crimping the round without seeing how much you flared the case mouth.
Did you flare the case mouth ? or did you just size and jam the bullet in.
How did you test for accuracy ? off hand ? sand bag rest ? any kind of rest.
Were you having a good day ? ( concentration )
Not interested in the Temp. unless you go from 20* with cold ammo and a cold gun
to 90* with ammo left in a car in hot gun. Said another way, I don't think your temperature differential is enough to matter.
How good do you normally shoot at 15 yards ? how bad did you shoot the new loads ?
This is the way I test a load before I commit to it, rifle or pistol.
Most folks don't have the patients for it or claim it uses to much ammo.
To each his/her own I guess, but the targets I shoot at are 1" dots two hand hold standing. NO I don't hit them every time.
Here is an example it's for my 45 acp Springer 1911-A1
First thing I do is go through my old cloths and take a pair of old sweat pants.
I cut them off at the knee and tie one end nice and tite with some cord.
I take my dirt sifter and sit it next to the cut of pants, and that sits next to my shooting bag.
I see in my load book the start charge for a 200 grain SWC bullet is 4.7 grains of tite group powder and max is 5.4-- Tite group is a Hodgons powder, so I look at there online data and compare it to my book. If it agrees and I agree I start at the MIN. load
I load one round with 4.7 and leave the bullet long, I take the barrel out of the pistol and try the bullet in the barrel, it's long so it wont seat, but I new that.
So I seat the bullet a little at a time until it seats in the barrel and the back of the case is flush with the back of the barrel hood or .005 to .010 below it. then check to see it will fit in the Mag. do a few more and function test to see they cycle in the pistol. So now I have my seating dept. It may be longer than the book
so my pressure will probly be lower and that's fine with me. I fit the bullet to MY pistol.
I will load 10 rounds at that Min. charge of 4.7 then 10 more at 4.9 and ten at 5
maybe 10 at 5.1 I never look for max loads, they seldom give the best accuracy and I just don't need them for target shooting or defensive practice. My pistol is a 45 ACP and makes big holes, if I need more power I gun up and not power up,
but that's my opinion.
A 9 mill may get bigger--but a 45 ain't gonna get any smaller. My opinion again.
OK, so I load up the rounds take the dirt sifter and the cut off pants and off to the range. I sift some nice dry sand and fill the cut off pant leg to the size I want and tie off the other end, now I have a sand bag to shoot off of. It's not a ransom rest but it will eliminate a lot of shooting error. I'm not interested at this point at how good I shoot,
I want to see how good the bullets I made shoot.
So I sit and rest the pistol on the bag, I rest it into the bag so it's rock steady.
The target is 10 yards away and the bull is a 1" circle or shoot and see. I can get three on a sheet of 8X10 copy paper. Each shot is done with very careful breath and trigger control, front sight level with the rear and dead on the target cutting the 1" dot in half.
I shoot each group of bullets with there different charge weights, I choose the tightest group ( the best accuracy ) Most times it's one enlarge hole. I will then load that charge weight and duplicate everything else for the next time I shoot.
Back to the range and the target is 10 yards away again with a 1" dot as my aiming point. This time I shoot standing with a two hand hold, I know the load shot into one hole at the bench off the sand bag.
So if it doesn't shoot good for me now, off hand,
who my gonna blame. What Ive done is proven the load and taken that out of the equation.
This lets me choose the most accurate load for MY pistol with that bullet and that choice of powder. You can vary what I said if you want, but I think you get the idea.
If my shooting gets a little off some days I always have the sand bag to go back to in order to re-verify the load. Shooting a proven load puts all the misses in the shooters corner, Kinda lets you see how good or how bad you are and what may need work.
I gotta find a way to say things with a few less words EH.
HOPE it helps.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
yes i was shooting through a chrony. no i wasnt shooting off a rest,but next time i will. but i need to know if i need to load seperate loads in summer and winter.
my coal was the same for all test loads through chrony.
 

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If I notice a difference ( target shooting in different temperatures ) I may modify my load.
For Self defense I don't worry about it. The firearm is next to my body and is kinda temperature controlled -- (for the lack of a better way to say it, sorry )
But I do change my bullet choice for S D Hollow points for summer, people use light clothing, and solids or jacketed soft point for winter for a little extra penetration.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
im not worried about self defense right now,im focusing on target shooting but im more interested in the different fps im getting between hot and cold weather.is there a powder like hodgdons extreme powder that will work better?
 

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Well you also have to take in to consideration that the weathet itself will somewhat mildly alter projectile performance. Simple rule of thumb is the more humidity the "heavier the air" from moisture if you want to go that far with it. And alot of times if a round is really hot it may cause minute flutter and cause the pistol to be more inaccurate then normal. Just my simple 2 cents I am not an experienced reloader just a grunt.
 

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Last batch I loaded, I took the Hodgdon Manual, loaded a little over the Minimum, nothing hot, an easy shooting load (for lead bullets). Safety first!
 
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