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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Picked it up today, the .45 ACP Redhawk I traded some other guns for........

Looks good so far, haven't fired it yet. This was to be one of my last major purchases for a while, have to tighten the belt for a little bit and I'm settling into being "pretty much" comfortable with what I have......might need a new .357 SP101 2.25" just to add a rock solid carry piece to replace my older .38 SP101, but that may be about it for the near future.

Anyway, what seems "off" about this Redhawk is it locks up TOO tight, I mean, tight like an old Colt.........don't know if this is good or bad. The DA pull on one of the chambers has a moderate "hitch" right before the hammer drops, just going by the 20 or so dry fires I've done. I think there may be a slight flaw in the fitting of the hand and ratchet. Nothing horrible, just that one chamber has a hinky pull through, maybe it will work itself out.

In the 2nd pic you can see a "rub" on the hand, where it seems to be forcing itself up againt the ratchet tooth on lockup. It's enough to just catch a fingernail when I run my nail across that rub mark. I don't want to prematurely wear the ratchet teeth, or hand.......so I don't know whether this one needs to go back to Ruger for a "touch up", if I can touch the hand with a fine file a few times and fix it myself and save the effort of sending it back.......or leave "well enough alone" as long as it passes my test fire evaluation and just hope nothing gets munged up with the ratchet or hand from these parts bearing on each other so tightly.

I also noticed Ruger is now using a roll pin for the rear sight, vs.the old solid pin. I like it, I've been saying for a while Ruger should just use the roll pins instead of having to bend solid pins that walk out. Maybe they got tired of guns being sent back for "walking" pins, or they can save money this way. Colt used roll pins on their DA's , and the Six series and fixed sight GP's and SP's use them on their front sight........so I'm not seeing it as a "cheap" addition.

I plan to break it down and do my usual cleanup of the internals, which I do on all my new Rugers, to get that dried shipping oil out of the action, so,since hands are cheap, I may try to clean up that spot on the hand to see if it frees things up a little. I don't think a Ruger should be locking up so tightly, unless I got a gun fitted really well and just don't know it......none of my other Rugers do this, there is always a little "play" on lockup, which seems like the more normal for a Ruger.
 

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Nice!

I imagine Ruger Marketing, bringing the Voice of the Customer (VOC!) back to engineering and manufacturing, "Customers want sloppier lock-up...."

Just kidding.

I don't know Redhawks. Is it possible to describe how the trigger feels vs the newer two spring actions (SRH, GP, SP)?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
I have a Kodiak Backpacker Redhawk, as well as a .357 Redhawk. I traded a 4" .44 Redhawk for this .45 model, and all of them have smoother DA pulls.

Not so much the "tight" lockup that bothers me but the hitchiness at the end of the pull, even besides that one chamber, the rest of the chambers have a DA pull that has a "hump" in the DA stroke before the trigger falls.

The pull is still very usable, I'm not expecting it to pull through like a $3,000 PPC gun, it's still a very, very cool gun and if it prints a "combat accurate" group at 25 yards I'll be happy with it, and will put a ton of rounds through it.

I don't want to judge the gun before I shoot it, I plan to get some rounds through it over the next few days. I have just never seen a Ruger hand show a "wear spot" after only a few dry fires fresh out of the box. It may just need a couple .001"s taken off the side that bears on the ratchet teeth. I really don't want to attempt this myself, nor do I want to have to monkey with an $850 gun that's NIB so I think my plan is just to shoot it,if it works and shoots fine, I'm gonna roll with it, and just see if it slicks up a little with use........ and if I'm not 100% warm and fuzzy with it I'm calling for a shipping label. No big deal, I'm confident in Ruger's CS if I feel it needs more attention.
 

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Congratulations on the new Redhawk. I'm sure you'll work out the kinks one way or another. We'll be interested to hear how it goes at the range.
 

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Nice! Can't wait to hear the range report.

I wonder if that hitch you are feeling is similar to what I feel on my Match Champion? It's sort of like at the end of a DA pull there's a plateau right before it fires so it's not quite a clean break at the end since you have to pull just a touch further then expected sometimes. I only noticed it when doing slow fire though and only sometimes. I need to do some more dry fire to see if I can narrow it down some, I didn't think to try and see if it was only happening on a specific chamber.

I was under the impression that the RedHawk and GP100 were totally different trigger mechanisms though so maybe not...
-Jim
 

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The hollow pin will be expanding through all of the adjustable-sighted steel DA revolvers.
For some unknown reason, no plans yet on the SAs.
Denis
 

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Congrats on the new Redhawk. Really interested in that revolver.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
I'm hoping to take it to the "real" range tomorrow, and put at least a box of ACP through it.

Maybe with the super tight lockup it will shoot cloverleafs at 25, who knows right:)

Looking through my other guns, I do have a used GP100 I bought, that was made in 2003, that has a similiar "tight" lockup with the trigger all the way back. It was a security trade in, and it has some miles on it......the left side of the tip of the hand is worn and shiny, like it just "broke in" after a few 1,000 rounds. Hopefully the same will happen with the .45 Redhawk.

I was playing around with the moonclips last night, for some reason it's strangely satisfying to pop that 6-round clip into the cylinder:) This is my first "real" revolver that uses moon clips, I had a Taurus M380, but never used the clips, plus that gun was a dud and a lemon so it doesn't count. I think with some practice this gun will reload as fast as an auto.

There's not enough room around the serial number on the butt to have a lanyard ring added:) Oh well, whatever no big deal. I do want to call Ruger and buy a set of the same grips that came on my Kodiak, I think they look and feel better.

One of the downsides of being an "advanced wheelgun nut" is that I immediately nit pick the mechanics with a fine tooth comb:) I think I was happier 15 years ago when I was just a "beginner", and had my first wheelgun. I just pulled the trigger and fired it, I didn't even know what timing, carryup, lockup or endshake were. I think I was happier back then lol

The "average shooter" would have gotten my .45 ACP Redhawk and just shot it for decades and thought nothing of it, I'm trying to return to that mindset.........it's why I like Ruger wheelguns, they're the "set it and forget it" guns.

Ruger covers shipping until the gun is a year old, so I have about 9-10 months to see if it starts snapping hands, or acting wierd and I can send it back in for free. My new rule with NIB Rugers, is I don't "fix" them, if I don't like how they operate they're going back. I don't pay nearly a grand for a gun to have to "finish" it, I'm shooting it as is and going from there.......Fortunately I've only had to send one back for service, I thought about fixing it myself, but it was quick and painless to ship it to Ruger.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
I put a couple boxes of .45 ACP through the gun today, worked great:)

I only had 1 box of Silver Bear and a box of Wolf Poly-Formance steel case, along with 1 moon clip of Sellier & Bellot brass.

The pics on the bottom show the gun with a target fired at 10 yards, 12 rounds in single action, 6 in DA. Also a target fired at 25 yards in Single Action, and another at 7 yards in rapid fire DA. I haven't been getting a lot of trigger time, so I am a bit rusty......I pulled some of the shots and have a couple fliers. I believe if I had done my part the "clusters"would have been tighter.

The Silver Bear tended to need a "push" to seat the rounds as the gun heated up, kind of like .22 in a revolver, had to seat them with my thumb a couple times. One clip wasn't fully seated and kind of "dragged" on the recoil shield, causing a sluggish trigger pull.

Also, extraction was a bit sticky with the Silver Bear, had to "tap" the ejector rod to eject a few of the spent moonclips. For fear of breaking the ejector star I tried to be gentle.

The Wolf chambered fine and the spent cases just slid right out. I would recommend brass with this gun, the Selier & Bellot loaded and ejected perfectly, but all I had on hand in any quantity was the steel case. Steel case isn't a whole lot cheaper anymore vs. brass "range ammo" like WWB or Federal, so there's really no incentive to use it in .45 ACP IMO unless you have an auto that likes it. The Wolf shot with good accuracy, I would use it if I had nothing else, but no more Silver Bear in this gun. This ammo also needed a "push" to seat in my Birdshead, so maybe the cases are a bit out of spec.

Since up to now I haven't been shooting a lot of .45 in my P90, only in my Vaquero, I don't keep a lot of brass .45 around. I have 12 rounds of the S&B left, 6 will go in the gun and 6 more on a clip, so this gun can sleep in my nighstand tonight:) Standard .45 ACP will be ideal for HD where I live.

I used a spent 30-06 case as a "de mooner", worked great. It will save you the $$$ on a de-mooning tool. The loaded rounds just snapped in. I would recommend buying a couple dozen clips, if you get this gun, since it gets to be kind of a PITA to constantly have to strip and reload the clips. I want to try some of the TK Custom clips too. The Ruger clips seem tough but I was afraid of bending them up. Nice deep primer strikes, and Wolf is known for hard primers.

Overall shooting this gun was a blast, if I had the time and a 1,000 round case of brass .45, along with a bunch of clips, I probably would have shot all of it up. Enough recoil to let you know it's a .45, but no where near approaching unpleasant at all. Accuracy was good, I didn't do anything scientific with bench rests, etc. I was checking out a range I just joined, it was WAY out in the country and the facilities and range were "spartan" to say the least, so all shooting was done standing.

I can't wait to get some .45 ACP brass case and really wring this gun out, the sticky steel case and having only 3 moonclips kept me from doing a ton of shooting with it, but so far I'm very happy with it. The "tight" lockup issue didn't seem to cause any problems, nothing broke, and the gun shot fine, so I'm not touching anything. I'll just let it break in.

If you love .45 ACP, and love Ruger revolvers, then you need one of these:)
 

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I didn't shoot steel in either of the two here, but there was no need for any type of a de-mooner whatever with the Ruger clips and brass.
Snap right in, pull right out, bare fingers.

At $5 per, Ruger's clips are pricey so you may not want to figure on acquiring a boatload. :)
Denis
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
That 30-06 case made it a little more convenient to pop the cases out, it was free:) No way am I buying "tools" to load and unload clips.

I'm gonna bite the bullet and get 10 of the TK clips, so I can at least load up a box at a time plus a few extra.

For some reason there are two types of clips, one size for .45 LC Redhawks that have been cut for clips, and another size for these .45 ACP-LC models. If a person has one of each, keeping those clips straight could be problematic:)

Sometimes the loaded clips needed a little "wiggle" to get them to load, I don't know if having a gunsmith chamfer the chambers would help or not, I probably wouldn't bother. I don't want to brag just yet to my "tacticool" 1911 freak friends and co-workers that I can outshoot them and their 1911's and reload just as fast, and then get dusted on the range as I screw around getting a moonclip to seat lol

DPris did you do any testing with lead ACP? I was wondering if some of the LRN rounds, like those "Wild Bunch" rounds Parabellum Research sells made seemingly for use in .45 ACP revolvers, would shoot a little tighter.

I doubt if my .45 Redhawk will see much if any Long Colt, if I do shoot any it will just be to see how it does in the gun. I don't have anything else in .45 LC so I don't look for it or buy it, since those are some expensive groceries.

I had wished, from a shooter's standpoint, that Ruger had just made these in .45 ACP so that, just for range plinking, you could drop ACP rounds in and poke them out with a plastic rod or use your fingernail.........but from marketing standpoint I see why Ruger made it a "hybrid".

Some other people have griped on other forums, saying "it's the only .45 ACP DA revolver that NEEDS moonclips to shoot ACP" and those Zombie Apocolypse people "if your in a pinch and run out of clips you can't just drop the ACP rounds in" but I don't think Ruger designed these as "prepper" or Zombie guns:)

As a history nerd, I have to note, also, the very early Colt 1917's would also chamber .45 Long Colt, and needed moonclips for the ACP, since they were just using old stock LC cylinders to fill the govt. contract when we entered WWI....so, in the event a Doughboy didn't have clips, and just had loose .45 ACP, he couldn't have used it in one of these.......OK history nerd moment over:)
 

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I only used one lead ACP load, a Buffalo Bore 255-grain flat-nosed bullet.
It keyholed in both guns.

The thing that affects ACP accuracy is the long "freebore" inside the .45 Colt chamber.
None of the 9 ACP loads tested produced anything remotely resembling a cloverleaf, in either gun. :)

People who complain about the Ruger being the only .45 ACP revolver that HAS to use clips with ACPs are not understanding what the gun was meant to be: a .45 Colt that also shoots ACP.

It's primarily a .45 Colt gun, not a .45 ACP.
Some have reported decent accuracy with handloads, but the two here were not impressive in ACP with commercials.

The first gun only held under four inches at 25 yards with 2 of the 9 ACP loads.
The second gun, with tighter chambers, did better with 4 of the same 9 test loads producing a best 5-shot group under four inches.

If you want yours to be an ACP-only gun, don't plan to get the same degree of accuracy overall that you would with .45 Colt loads.

Even in the first gun, ALL .45 Colt loads could easily put 5 under four inches.

The model just wasn't built to be an ACP-only gun.
Denis
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
The accuracy I got at 7, 10 and 25 yards was about what I get with my GP100's, I was happy with the results. It's not a .45 ACP match gun by any means, I bought it to be a primarily .45 ACP revolver, but it will be a range shooter primarily. With few options for a .45 ACP DA, short of a S&W 1917, this one is the best option available.

At some point I want to shoot it on sandbags in SA, just to see what it can really do with ACP but shooting off hand, it's good enough for me.

I'll have to satisfy my curiousity and get some .45 LC just to do it, I've never fired this round from a DA revolver.

I fired my 9mm Blackhawk today at 15 and 25 yards and the results weren't as good, I was lucky to keep them on a 12x24" blank paper target at 25 but again, the primary job I got that gun for was fun shooting with cheap 9mm ammo and it performs adequately. It may do better off sandbags, since by the time I got to the Blackhawk, I was wrapping up the range day and wasn't "on top of my game" so to speak, also already had a couple Monsters in me which didn't help.........it's not a "shoot off bags and measure groups" type gun, it's a range blaster:) For 9 bucks a box I can hit a target with it and have fun....... I have other guns that I can pay double for the ammo to make just as much noise at the range shooting a little bit tighter:)

Just for reference here's the Blackhawk and the .45 Redhawk targets from 25, the Redhawk did better. I mean, there's always a "more accurate" gun, for fun shooting I'm more interested in reliability and economy, the pistol caliber revolvers let me shoot some of my favorite guns and pay less to do it, I love my Kodiak Backpacker, it shoots like a laser, but I can't always drop $60-70 for two boxes of ammo to take it out for the day. Plus, I have a 9mm GP100 conversion in the works for the same reason, so I can pop away with 9mm with my favorite model of handgun in a caliber that I can get 500 round bags of for $90. I'm not advanced enough in the shooting hobby to the point where I handload, or work up "pet loads" for guns to wring out more accuracy etc. Maybe down the road, but now I just feel lucky to have time to shoot:)
 

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There are actually better ACP options.

If you wanted a .45 ACP-only DA revolver, I see three on S&W's website.
I'd suspect all three would shoot circles around your Ruger in that caliber.

The Smith 625 I have here in .45 ACP easily outshoots the Rugers, not because it's a "better" gun, but because it was built to shoot ONLY ACPs, and has chambers cut for ACPs.

If you wanted to shoot only ACPs, there are numerous used Smiths in the caliber.

The Ruger's really oversized & bulky for the ACP, if that's all you want to shoot in it.

Accuracy-wise, your photos show no scale of reference in determining how accurate your gun is, and without benching & measuring groups at specific distances, saying "accuracy was good" is sorta meaningless.
Your photos actually appear to illustrate the opposite. :)

Not saying you HAVE to bench it, but that's pretty much the best way to confirm & document what a given gun is capable of in terms of best accuracy.

But, if you're happy with whatever you're doing & whatever you're getting, that's the main thing. :)

A side note: people tend to compare the Blackhawk convertible with this new Redhawk convertible, which is not a fair comparison.
The Blackhawks use two cylinders, and the dedicated "pistol" caliber chambers are correctly cut for short rimless rounds, which is not possible to fire both .45 calibers through ONE cylinder in the Redhawk.
Denis

Additional note: You may or may not be aware, but if not, you will run into the same situation with extensive short ACP shooting as with shooting a bundle of .38s through a .357 Mag chamber.
You'll tend to get a ring of burned carbon build-up around the chamber walls eventually, unless you scrupulously scrub it out regularly.
How soon & how much depends on how much you shoot & what you shoot.

The lead ACP loads you were asking about earlier will most likely aggravate the process.

That won't substantially affect ACP seating, but can affect .45 Colt seating, if you ever run those through.

Not a deal-killer, but something to keep in mind with your new gun.
 
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