I have used these for years with NO problems. The wax, is used by museums on their swords etc. This is NOT a speedy operation. Pads are from the dollar store, out of the cosmetic dept. As a rule, I wait until winter for this project and do it while watching the REDSKINS loose. You don't have trouble with nickel unless there is a break in the finish. once ANYTHING gets under the finish it's downhill from there.
Nickel is a good, hard finish. Don't use anything with ammonia on it or near it. If your bore cleaner has ammonia in it, and it probably does, keep it away from the finish. If the finish is cracked, the ammonia will react with the copper below the nickel. Once I used the Flitz on it, and I wouldn't use that unless it is pretty bad, I would just use CLP to keep it clean after that.
Go to your local auto parts store and buy a can of liquid Silicon polish. It usually sells for $5 a can and will last a long time. After you apply it, you buff it clean with a soft cloth. The "words" and little nooks and crannies will retain some "white" when the polish dries. You can get the white stuff out with a little more soft cloth buffing or with aqn air compressor. This stuff works well on blued and stainless guns too.
Note: some liquid auto waxes an paste waxes contain abrasive buffing compounds and should not be used on a nickle finish. It will be marked saying it contains both a cleaner and a polish. Get the stuff that is a silicone polish only (cheaper too).