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Discussion Starter #1
The Power Custom hammer/trigger kit that restores a half-cock notch, and a three-click cocking sequence sounds nice. Roland (the owner?) emailed and said that with a signed waiver, he can send a kit that removes the transfer bar completely, effectively turning a NM into an OM. This too sounds nice, though I like (and was getting used to) the idea of loading six. I guess the old way was to load six and carry at 'quarter' cock, but I don't think this hammer has the first notch.

Anyway, has anyone installed this kit, and if so:

1. Did it require any fitting of anything? A minus, in my book. Parts for a gun as ... simple ... as the BH/Vaquero should drop in -- it's not a Python.

2. Does the trigger break clean? It's advertised to give a light pull, but does it creep?

3. Does it deliver -- do you set the hammer to half cock to load and unload, and does the pawl 'sing' as advertised? : ) (In the current setup, it does karaoke, but it doesn't spin like a prize wheel on oiled bearings)
 

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"I guess the old way was to load six and carry at 'quarter' cock, but I don't think this hammer has the first notch."


Actually, the old way was to load five beans in the wheel and carry an empty chamber under the hammer.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
OK, you got me on a technicality. I'm aware of that method. I meant the old way to risk carrying 6 was to put it on the first notch, where the hammer was still close to the frame, and hope you didn't drop it!

Or, if you're Kevin Costner in Free Range, you had 11 or 13 shots...

Now... anyone install this kit...?
 

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Hi pawneefork,

1. Powers' kit is as great as advertised! Usually a drop in but comes with excellent instructions. Used Pwers' hammer kits and loved them.
2. Great trigger pull, undetectable creep on most but you can get a little variation though they have excellent service if you want to exchange.
3. Yes the cylinder will sing but you don't need the free spin pawl.
If you have a New Vaquero or New Flat top it already has the alignment indexing pawl and a free spin pawl.
If you have another model the 1/2 cock hammer (with or without the transfer bar), will allow the chambers to click into alignment with the loading gate. Have you ever had to go all around again because you went slightly to far? But get the free spin if you want, I like it but I just modify the Ruger pawl to do the same thing.

The 1st cock notch was never a good idea! Even in the old Colts which the old Rugers copied, it's more dangerous than no notch at all if you load six. That was never recommended. All it does if the gun is dropped is chip off the notch and give the hammer a running start at the firing pin; much easier to set off a primer than if the hammer was all the way down because even then the primer can go off.

However, having said all that, I like tradition. I want 4 clicks and Safety. So I keep the transfer bar and file a notch on the Powers hammer for that 1st click. I never use the notch but it clicks as the hammer goes by. So the notch you file doesn't have to be fancy or shaped like the hook of the original Ruger notch because if you leave the hammer there and it slips off, no worries, the transfer bar will not let a round go off. The best of both worlds!

Let us know what you decide to do and have fun,
Jim
 

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Discussion Starter #6
So John, you left the transfer bar in, and it still let you set the hammer at half cock to open the gate? Did you modify the transfer bar? I thought the guy said I would need a 'good' file to cut the transfer bar. I wouldn't mind having that setup -- would like to carry 6. With the new parts though, you have to have it on half cock to open the gate, yes?

You said you also added an extra notch in the hammer -- where did you locate it? How did you know where to file to get that 4th click...?

I want to do this mostly because of the traditional sound, but also for the hammer's profile. The vaquero hammer isn't Colt style and it isn't Blackhawk -- it's in between. The spur is shorter. Also, there's a lot of hammer 'body' behind the recoil shield, extending the rounded lines, whereas the back of the Colt hammer more closely follows the recoil shield, with not much hammer body sticking out. Confusing to describe.

To those who would say "if you wanted a Colt, why didn't you just buy one?" About a thousand dollars difference, that's why, otherwise I might be on a different forum. ; ) No offense to a well made gun. It's a pretty good copy, line for line, and the mirror finish is very impressively nickel-like. It just drips, it's so liquid smooth. Bought a Colt style base pin and will order the crescent ejector rod. I also bought grips without the medallion. I'll keep all the stock parts of course, since it will be desirable someday to someone who wants an original Vaquero and nothing else.
 

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1. The kit comes with instructions to modify your transfer bar or you can buy the Powers already modified bar. You would want to have the hammer on 1/2 cock or you lose the advantage of the chambers aligning with the loading gate. I don't have a gun with me now and I don't recall if you HAVE TO have the hammer on 1/2 cock to open the gate.

2. You locate the extra notch in the same place as the old model hammer 1st notch. If you don't have an old hammer, locate the extra notch the same distance above the 1/2 cock notch as the full cock notch is below the 1/2 cock notch. It's not critical.

3. Powers makes a Colt profile hammer for the Ruger, so order that one.

I know precisely what you mean by the hammer spur profile and the shank sticking out so far from the recoil shield. I dislike that and reduce it on my hammers. Also the most current Ruger hammers have a reduced shank width. See the one on the right:



4. To those who would say "If you wanted a Colt, why didn't you just buy one?" I say, I already have a dozen Colts. I want better than a Colt, a Ruger, with better value, stainless steel, 6 shot safety, a bank vault with a trigger longevity, with a few Colt features!
To get the Colt ejector rod head to tuck up tight under the barrel in a straight slot Ruger ejector housing, try this:
Colt ejector rod showing 'cam grind' on the end so ejector rod spring tension 'cams' it against the housing attachment screw and up tight against the barrel when at rest with standard Ruger straight slot housing. A liitle notch in the housing helps too.



New Vaq 44 Spl Sheriff Model, Colt ejector, Belt Mtn Colt-style base pin. Ugly web behind trigger radiused.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Holy smoke! That's a ton of useful info. You read my mind. You also nailed my gripe about the fat hammer shank -- didn't know the right word, but that's it.

I had just noticed the trigger web today and thought "That shouldn't be here..." Your radiused trigger looks nice. Maybe before I put all this together, I'll grind that off. I notice the Ruger trigger is wide, and centered in the frame, vs the Colt offset set narrow trigger. It's a nicer trigger -- the old style was kind of awkward, but it's got history on its side. The Ruger truly is its own gun. If it didn't look so nearly Colt-like, I wouldn't have messed with it. I vowed to let it remain a Vaquero, but I can't help it. I bought the wrong gun because it was within reach.

Thanks for all that information. You're a godsend.
 
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