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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
just took that Marlin (see previous post) to the range and it worked perfectly on both .38 and .357 if I fed one at a time. Put two or more in and the spent round would eject but the new rounds got jammed coming up. Any thoughts? This happened with both .38 and .357.
 

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As i understand it, has been in a basement for a year.
Lube in it may be non-existant or dried out.
I would get some brake cleaner or gun scrubber and wash out the action well, let dry, and lube it and work the action. That might do the trick. Might be a rough spot in it as well---working the action could polish it out.
What ever you use be careful that it does not hurt the finish.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Also, the guy who did some work on my Winchester 30-30 gave me some dummy rounds that I could use to cycle through the gun. Empty, no primer. Where would I get some .357s like that? Any chance someone here who reloads could make me a half dozen for a few bucks??
 

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I got a bucket of stuff. Mainly use gun scrubber to clean one out. As with anything, wet a patch and lightly apply to a small area of stock that is out of the way and check to make sure it does not damage finish to stock.
I like G-96 gun treatment and shooters choice grease.
Been trying some new stuff called Eezox but the jury is till out.

Have heard it is a bear for an individual to mail/ship ammo and would not want to try it---even built dummy rounds.
Might be a good time for you to get into reloading. Check out
www.leeprecision.com
a good place to start and save a few bucks. With the price of ammo nowadays, it should pay for itself pretty quick.
 

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yep then you could make your own.
 

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I don't trust my memory much anymore and I do not have a Marlin .357 in stock, so I do not have a manual to read. But I thought I read somewhere with Marlin's Micro-groove rifling you were not to shoot lead in them. No semi-wadcutters for example. Just jacketed ammo. Help me out guys, am I dreaming this up? Just wanted EddieF to know it, if it is true.
 

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Ron Honner: Lead alloy bullets can be used in Marlin Micro-Groove barrels, but such use isn't as simple as using lead alloy bullets in Ballard-style barrels. I haven't yet tried lead bullets in centerfire rifles, but I can recommend the forums and articles at www.leverguns.com, as well as various cast bullet sites, for further information. Then, having done the necessary background reading, find someone who has done it successfully to guide your first efforts.
 

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EddieF: Try e-mailing Marlin to request an Owner's Manual for your .357 Magnum Model 1894C carbine. The NRA and the Gun Digest folks have both published books that show how to field-strip your carbine. A simple cleaning and lubrication will probably get your carbine running again. If not, go to www.google.com and search for "Marlin 1894 misfeed" or "Marlin 1894 jam." Doing a search at www.leverguns.com or at Cowboy Action Shooting sites will probably show you the problem and what your gunsmith will have to do to fix it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
UPDATE: I took the Marlin to my local gun shop and talked to a guy who, while not a gunsmith, knows his stuff. He's seen more than his fair share of lever guns, but he's more of a shotgun guy. Anyway, he took it in the back, took it apart and examined everything. He said he could not find anything broken or obvious. There is a timing problem, but he couldn't quickly determine what was causing it.

What's happening, and he spent many more words that I quickly forgot in telling me this, but it's feeding two rounds at once. That's why it jams, because there's another round underneath it pushing on the top round.

I've followed the links above and read a lot of various things in various forums, but I'm just not comfortable really doing anything with this gun, particularly since the guy I bought it from will gladly return my money at any time, provided I don't eff it up by trying to fix it!

My next step is to send it to Marlin, to the tune of $45 plus any parts (that's my understanding anyway), or to find a gunsmith locally who can tell me over the phone that they would fix it for less than that (and I'd avoid shipping). The guy today gave me a couple names but I haven't talked to them. Any thoughts or advice at this point?
 

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+1 on getting owner manual. It my help you in trying to fix it yourself.
For the price you got it, i would not sell it back!
If you can not find a local gunsmith to work on it, you may want to explore that manual along with the links from leverguns.com or marlinowners.com about the dbl feed and make an attempt to tear down and fix yourself.
If you can not fix it or put it back together, then send it to marlin. If you fix it---fine and you saved shipping costs. If you can't fix it, you are still out just the shipping + parts.
Either way you got a great deal in that gun and i view it as still a no loose position.
 

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You got two kinds of jams that are common on Marlins one is known as the Marlin jam, and the other can happen with any Levergun. Winchester 94s are bad for the problem you are talking about. Basically when your shell carrier comes down as you close the action the carrier is hitting the shell retaining hook, and causing a shell to fly in behind the loading gate. I have had two Winchester 94s do this very same thing. In most cases the shell carrier is not machined properly, or bent in cases of the stamped part Winchesters of the late 60's and early 70's. You need to look at the shell carrier and see if it is not proper, and check the retaining hook to make sure it isn't messed up. With my Winchesters on one the carrier was reworked, and the other a new carrier was put in the gun. I had a web site address that had a detailed instructions on how to fix the problem I will try and find it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Wow, thanks L.F., that top one certainly seems to be describing my problem. But even with all that detailed instruction, I don't think I have the wherewithall to fix this problem myself.

It does seem really odd that Marlin hasn't fixed this, it seems like such a common issue.
 

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I have never really understood Marlin not working on this issue. It is an old problem. I uderstand. Several smiths can work on this problem as well as Marlin. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thanks, I really appreciate the research you provided there. I will update this post as I figure out what to do. I am leaning toward sending it to Marlin.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
UPDATE: I talked to Marlin customer service, I just like to have a conversation before I send something in, you know? I described the problem, she assured me that they do, in fact, get that a lot, and that the guys know exactly what to do to permanently fix it. She said it should be covered in their $45 minimum, but depending on the serial number, if it's under warranty time frame they wouldn't charge. But I'm going to send it tomorrow. She said they're pretty caught up and should have it ready to ship back in two weeks.

I think, as you all have suggested, at $245 it's still a great investment, and I just know it will be a lot of fun once I get it working right! Thanks for all your advice and help, I will let you know how it all works out...
 
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