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Discussion Starter #1
Hi,

My name is Mark. I'm new to the forum and the Ruger 10/22. I want to say first of all that I've read the forum and searched the web for the proper way to clean the rifle. I still have a few questions:

1. I ordered some Hoppe's #9 Solvent. On the video, the man cleans the bore and then says to use a gun powder cleaning solvent to clean around the extractor area. Do I need to buy another cleaner, or can I use the Hoppe's for that as well?

2. Secondly, do I swab out the inside of the action with the Hoppe's #9, that is where the bolt and spring goes, and the bolt as well? Do I then apply gun oil to those components?

3. Thirdly, my rifle is really tough getting the bolt out. When I take the buffer bolt out, the bolt won't go back far enough to raise the bolt out. The cut-out on the rifle is too tight. Also, when I push the bolt back where it should go, it gets stuck. Again too tight tolerances. The only way I can get the bolt out is to get the charging handle/spring out first. It's hard to get back in too. Am I doing something wrong? It looks so easy in the video.

4. Lastly, I have problems with the extractor. I am using the Aguila Super Colibri and I realize it's not powerful enough to cycle the action, but I should be able to manually extract the round. What happens often is that the shell casing gets stuck in the barrel and I can't feed the next round until I take the magazine out (factory 10 round - also the BX-10) and cycle the bolt a couple of times or fire again against the empty - then the shell will extract.

Forgive me for the long post . . . :(

I appreciate any help I can get. Thanks in advance. :)

Sincerely,

Mark from Tampa
 

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You're liable to get as many different procedures as you do responses to the first couple questions. Personally, I use a BoreSnake & Hoppes #9 for the bulk of my 10/22 cleaning. A stiff-bristled toothbrush & Hoppes also work well for me in cleaning the inside of the chamber, & around the extractor & feed ramp. Make sure to clean up the feed lips of your magazines in the same manner. So far as lubricants go, Break-Free CLP has always served me well, although I don't disassemble the receiver very often.

The reason the bolt won't come out until the bolt handle is removed is because that's how it's supposed to happen. After removing the Bolt Buffer, push back the bolt handle & pop the front of the bolt free. Then remove the bolt assembly from the ejection port. Turn the receiver over & the bolt will fall out. Reassembly is a bit of a pain until you get used to it, or you can "cheat" by using one of these, or a DIY substitute.

Finally, I HIGHLY recommend replacing the factory extractor w/ aftermarket parts. Volquartsen makes a great one, & it's easy to install. I can practically guarantee you'll see a major decrease in failures to extract if you make this simple modification, & keep your magazines clean. Might as well buy & install a Voquartsen Automatic Bolt Release while you're at it. Just trust me on that one.

Hope this helps, & welcome to the Forum!
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Thanks, DEKeer and North country gal,

I did order the Volquartsen Exact Edge Extractor, along with the Bolt tool, a Hoppe's Bore Snake, and Kidd Bolt buffer. I have gotten everything but the extractor. The tool didn't help much because of the tight tolerances in the action. I think it's too tight. On the video's, it shows the bolt lifting out. It actually will get stuck with the bolt buffer out and pushed all the way back and it will get stuck trying to pick it up and not go back down when trying to mate it with the charging handle. I managed to get it in and out 4 or 5 times now but it's not easy. My factory bolt release also doesn't work right either. I have to push it up and pull down on the back of the release for it to engage. I wonder if I just got a gun with not so much precision in manufacturing?

I did run some patches through the bore and cleaned a little around the bore where the extractor meets and it helped some. This is new to me. I have a lot of airguns and this is my first real gun since I was a kid.

P.S. When I used the bore snake, it looked like power, but more properly, metal grit coming out of the bore. Is the brass brush and the brushes on the bore snake damaging to the metal in the barrel. Just running a few dry patches down the bore with a same coated snake from the breech seems to be clean and the barrel with a light doesn't look dirty after shooting.

Are the feeding lips on the magazine the metal edges at the front and back or the plastinc feeding assembly?

Mark
 

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Are the feeding lips on the magazine the metal edges at the front and back or the plastinc feeding assembly?
Yup. The two steel pieces which look like runners, & the little ramp which connects them.

Wait until you've got your aftermarket parts installed & see how the rifle breaks in. If the fit of the internals is still bothering you at that point then maybe take your 10/22 to a local gun shop. They'll surely be able to let you know if everything is up to proper specs ... & if not, I'm sure Ruger will do right by you & fix the problem.
 

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I had the same problem trying to get my bolt and spring back in. It came out easily but it seems like the bolt doesn't go far enough back with the buffer out.
 

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1. I ordered some Hoppe's #9 Solvent. On the video, the man cleans the bore and then says to use a gun powder cleaning solvent to clean around the extractor area. Do I need to buy another cleaner, or can I use the Hoppe's for that as well?

Hoppe's #9 can be used to clean all parts of the firearm.

2. Secondly, do I swab out the inside of the action with the Hoppe's #9, that is where the bolt and spring goes, and the bolt as well? Do I then apply gun oil to those components?

Yes. I use both a brass brush as well as an old toothbrush to clean these areas and then wipe them dry. After you clean these parts with the Hoppe's, wipe them down with a clean cloth with a few drops of oil on it. You don't need much.

3. Thirdly, my rifle is really tough getting the bolt out. When I take the buffer bolt out, the bolt won't go back far enough to raise the bolt out. The cut-out on the rifle is too tight. Also, when I push the bolt back where it should go, it gets stuck. Again too tight tolerances. The only way I can get the bolt out is to get the charging handle/spring out first. It's hard to get back in too. Am I doing something wrong? It looks so easy in the video.

Can't help you with this one. Sorry. I can say that my Mark III was very tight the first couple of times I disassembled it.

4. Lastly, I have problems with the extractor. I am using the Aguila Super Colibri and I realize it's not powerful enough to cycle the action, but I should be able to manually extract the round. What happens often is that the shell casing gets stuck in the barrel and I can't feed the next round until I take the magazine out (factory 10 round - also the BX-10) and cycle the bolt a couple of times or fire again against the empty - then the shell will extract.

Why not use ammo that is appropriate for the rifle instead of blaming the rifle for not extracting properly? It may not be the extractor at all, although the VQ is indeed superior. (You can easily modify a stock extractor to conform to the shape of the VQ with a little effort.)

Get a box of Federal or Winchester bulk ammo and run it through. It will break in and smooth out your rifle and you might find that the colibri will extract after a little breakin with appropriate ammo.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks, Tater.

I hear you about the ammo. I intend to get proper ammunition for the gun: problem is, it's hard to find now. It seems that everybody is stocking up, and what I can find is expensive.

I was reading the manual and it said to soak the magazine in a solvent. I thought that Hoppe's #9 would damage plastic and also the finish on my blued barrel and the paint on the action. Is this so or is it safe? As I said, this is all new to me and I want to take care of my gun.

I appreciate all the responses to my questions. It's like learning to ride a bicycle for the first time. (or not. . . :)

Mark
 

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I don't think it will hurt the blueing from my experience. As far as paint finishes and plastic, just put a small drop on an inconspicuous place and see what happens.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Just a little update about the Ruger 10/22. I just put in the Volquartsen Exact Edge Extractor. I can't really tell any difference. Some of the Aguila Super Colibri's still fail to extract sometimes. Regarding the special tool for working on the bolt and changing the extractor - when I put the tool in, either the bolt on the 10/22 was too long, or the tool was too short. It wouldn't go back and grab the back of the bolt. I still think this bolt may be out of specs. I can get it in and out, but, again, it's not like the video. There is no clearance to lift up the bolt.

I even ordered Kidd spring and handle kit. I put the light spring in and it won't cycle the Super Colibr's, or the Winchester SuperX that are rated at over 700 fps. Subsonic's that are 800-900 will cycle the standard bolt. I probably should have just used the gun as it is.

I would shoot standard ammunition but it's sold out nation wide, and the little I can find it 3 times what it should be. I've tried locally and online from all the major stores, and nobody had .22 LR ammo.

Mark
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Question? Should I use the spring that came with the Volquartsen Exact Edge Extractor of the Ruger Spring and plunger. I used the factory spring because I heard some say to use it to avoid problems. Is this so?
 

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Question? Should I use the spring that came with the Volquartsen Exact Edge Extractor of the Ruger Spring and plunger. I used the factory spring because I heard some say to use it to avoid problems. Is this so?
I used the spring that came w/ the new extractor & haven't had any issues. As you're still having feeding problems, maybe give that a go.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks, DEKeer!

Seems to be smoothing out. I cleaned the 10 round and BX-25 magazines and the gun seems to feed better. Fewer and fewer extraction or feeding problems. I was just able to order some standard ammo for the gun, so we'll see how it goes. I wonder if I should take the extractor out and use the VQ spring? It's not that hard. Some say the spring is shorter and stiffer than stock.

Mark
 

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