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Retired Moderator & Gunsmith
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bgavin, I really like the Torx screws in my Wrangler but I'm not willing to give up tradition, meaning straight slot screws that have been use on firearms since day one. I don't recall many any other special types of screws in the guns you mentioned. Maybe an Allen wrench for Ruger 10/22 "V" block screws or a long shaft fat/wide tip for the large screw inside the stock on some guns. Butt plates on many newer guns use a #2 Phillips bit. Some grip screws are now Allen head. No doubt, there are more but I just can't think of them right now.

Besides using the wrong screwdriver, one of the primary reasons why screws get boogered is people tend to tighten them like a lug nut on a car. Gun screws rarely need to be torqued …. just tight enough where they won't back out. Yes, there are a few exceptions and those screws tend to have a wider and deeper slot so more torque can be applied. Screws with a skinny slot should tell you …. "don't torque me down". Captive screws like the ones used on some Browning firearms, have a small screw that is torqued to prevent a larger screw from backing out. Theses are easy to spot because the larger screw has several divots cut in the head. Never torque the larger captive screws!

I just checked my tool box and found most of my gunsmith screwdriver bits are US made by Irwin, not B&D like I posted earlier, however I do have a set of B&Ds too. The set came with a 8 different size flat tip bits that cover the bulk of the screws found in guns. Years ago, I bought a package of 10 of the larger flat tip bits then used my bench grinder to make special shapes like wide and skinny, narrow and fat, or split tip. Don't forget Jeweler's screwdrivers. I have a set of bright yellow Stanley jewelers screwdrivers that come in very handy. I like to use the largest flat tip for screwing in grip frame screws. The swivel head works great to prevent the tip from coming out of the slot. I then use a conventional flat tip bit to snug the screws down. Here's a link: https://www.globalindustrial.com/p/tools/Screwdrivers/Screwdrivers-Set/66-052-6-piece-precision-screwdriver-set?infoParam.campaignId=WR&msclkid=c9739707995319e272c6ca76d0714958&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=catch all - Shopping&utm_term=4582627031284792&utm_content=Catch All&adlclid=ADL-3fae81c5-2145-453d-9411-163e054d8ff3
 

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I have a couple Chapman sets, a little Lyman set that lives in my range bag, and a few Brownells sets. The Chapman's are pretty brittle, and I have broken several over the years, The Brownell sets are BY FAR my favorites !
Chapman tools are designed to break before you bugger up the screw. If they break under normal conditions they give you a new tip. If they break because you stuck one in an impact driver, you have to buy a new tip. They make tool sets for the military precisely because of this feature. Living less than 20 miles from the factory (nope, not China) makes warrentee claims a lot easier.

Oh yeah, I was buggering up a wood screw because the impact tip didn't fit the slot, the Chapman tip fit perfectly. I broke off a corner of the tip, but the screw came out. Individual tips are cheap.
 

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I'm just happy that I've never had a firearm which used Bristol splined screw heads.

Old shortwave radios, however, are another story.
 

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I’m like most here that buy what I need when I need it but on guns it has turned out a little different. 10 years ago I bought a Snap On set of screwdriver bits in a plastic case that has sizes of Torx, flat tip, Phillips, square and hex. Then I bought a small set of Wiha screwdrivers. When I got a Golden Boy 2 years ago I bought the Henry/Grace tool kit that Henry sells. It has a plastic/brass hammer, punches and the nice wooden handle, hollow ground screwdrivers. All of these fit nicely in my range bag and cover my Ruger and Smith revolvers, Ruger MKs, Volquartsen, Henry and my Remington shotguns.
 

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Grace USA tools are made behind the family home in Northern Michigan. I've been to their small (very small) factory a few times, nice family business and people.
Their tools are very well made and look exceptionally nice! Lifetime guarantee.
They (Father, son, daughters) produce a large range of hollow ground screwdrivers. Some are almost identical in dimensions but per the Father, he wants the blade to fit as preciously as possible. He's concerned that we don't bugger-up a screw.
Firearm oriented tools are a priority for them.
 

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I agree with Iowegan, though I would imagine his is much more advanced than mine. I have a hodge podge kit that I put together of 1/4" hex screwdriver bits along with Torx bits, a set of brass and steel pin punches. Assorted files and brass hammers.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Iowegan, I am a "function over form" guy, so I will be happy with hex or torx fasteners.

If I can find them in blue or stainless, depending on the application, I would be even more happy.

My entire career was spent repairing devices other than guns.
Nothing torques me off more (pun) than crappy fasteners that are stripped or otherwise cannot be removed.

I also hang all my fences with torx for this reason.

Q: any words of wisdom about using Loctite Blue (#242) on firearms?

I have found in the past that #242 can really weld up tight in aluminum.
Alcohol is the solvent of choice for #242, but is difficult with large or clumsy parts.
 

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I have a two part Chapman set, hollow ground flat blade and hardened Allen heads , then I made a modified flat blade set for my Browning guns. No one should ever use a regular tapered blade screwdriver on a gun.
My instructor in the 101st Airborne Armorers School would use a mallet handle on your off hand if you were caught using a regular tapered screwdriver on one of his training guns or buggering up one of his screw slots. The Honor Graduate did not have sore hands.
 

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I have Brownell and Wheeler, both OK. I also bought the Brownell screwdrivver for S&W revolvers, it comes with 4 tips for the S&W screws, kind of handy.
 
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