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nawagner, That's what I do to all of my Ruger SA's .... just reshape the factory spring and use a trigger pull tester to see the results. I never buy reduced power trigger springs but I admit, using them is a lot easier for most people versus trying to bend them.
 

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I did on my first one, then once I realized the mechanics and did some more research it makes more sense to bend. Less expensive and infinite adjustment!
 

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I'm happy this thread has been resurrected. A lot of important factors have been out that affects Ruger SA revolvers that I did not know. I am going to work on the shooting techniques mentioned here and study the smoothing procedures more before I make any attempt to break out the stones. A trigger functioning the way Iowegan has described here would be very nice to have.
Also, do you guys have any tips for the proper technique to bend the factory spring?
 

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Since I have no business trying to do any stoning or fitting of the trigger sear, I put the Wolff 30 oz. trigger spring in my Single-six and that was the easiest improvement to a Ruger single action revolver that I have ever done. Reduced the trigger pull significantly and made the creep almost unnoticeable.
 

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Bending the trigger can have the same results without worrying about stoning any trigger parts and with zero cost. I do agree that the Wolff trigger spring is easy to do. If you can do that though, bending the trigger on the tail end is just as, or even easier.
 

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I found this site after I had already done a couple. It is also helpful in understanding the mechanics.
nawagner, I read Cylindersmith's article and it doesn't seem too difficult to bend the spring and I like the idea of tuning the trigger it to my liking. These springs are not expensive if you mess one up. As for the stoning, I understand how easily one could botch this task and have to replace a hammer and a sear.
 

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I agree that bending the original trigger return spring is pretty easy and definitely less expensive. My only comment is that the Wolff 30 oz trigger return spring is significantly more precise and of higher quality in the winding etc. You have to actually have both in your hand to appreciate the difference.
 

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I agree that bending the original trigger return spring is pretty easy and definitely less expensive. My only comment is that the Wolff 30 oz trigger return spring is significantly more precise and of higher quality in the winding etc. You have to actually have both in your hand to appreciate the difference.
I hear what you're saying, Wproct, and I know Wolff is known for making good products. If I am not happy with the "bend", I'll be in the market for a Wolff. By the way, have you measured your trigger pull since you upgraded? About 3 - 3.5 lbs would be ideal to me.
 

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Yup, Iowegan is right! I had an extra hammer and ground and drilled it to save weight. That worked, but there was no discernible reduction in lock time. Threw the "modified" hammer back into my goodie box maybe for another project. I shoot Rugers because they are so much fun to tinker with. AND I never use live rounds to check results.
 

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I hear what you're saying, Wproct, and I know Wolff is known for making good products. If I am not happy with the "bend", I'll be in the market for a Wolff. By the way, have you measured your trigger pull since you upgraded? About 3 - 3.5 lbs would be ideal to me.
I apologize for not responding to your question before now. I don't have a trigger pull gauge, but the pull is so smooth, I can't imagine it being much more than 3 lbs tops.
 

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No apology needed, wproct. A pull gauge is not a requirement. As long as you are happy with its performance the goal has been met. I think most of us would like our SA trigger pull without noticeable creep and a clean break.
 
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