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Discussion Starter #1
To follow up with my other refurb thread, here are a few more that I have brought back and the last two are examples of other guns that I have Cerakoted:









 

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All real nice !!!
But like this the best... real sharp and classy



Any befores for each of them ??


Here's one I had S&W do.... (lots of pitting and needed mechanical work, it was shot out.. so had S&W do all the resto work , they do miracles with a buffing wheel.)

Before..



After... (click for larger view)
 

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S&W factory reblueing and repair has always been outstanding. Personally, for a bluing job, I don't think any can compare to the Colt Royal Blue done on the 60's and 70's Pythons.
 

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S&W factory reblueing and repair has always been outstanding. Personally, for a bluing job, I don't think any can compare to the Colt Royal Blue done on the 60's and 70's Pythons.
Yes, there was something about how deep those bluing jobs were.

Even with S&W.
I haven't seen any new OEM bluing jobs as nice as they were back than.

I don't know much about the process, but always thought that maybe it had to do with the EPA and OSHA and such...

Can't see it on the before picture, but years before, that blue that was on that S&W, had that deep blue, along side all the duty wear and tear, and later pitting from bad storage. That original blue was just soo deep and blue without being black.
 

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The chemicals used in bluing were either banned by the EPA or became so expensive as to be cost prohibitive.......there are differing opinions over on the S&W forum.

The brand new S&W "Classics" have an almost black matte bluing, nothing like the blue on my mint 1971 vintage Model 29.



This is a new 10-14, the polish and blue are nothing like the old ones.

But, I like the look of the new stainless S&W revolvers over the older ones, go figure:)
 

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Nice work. I really like the jeweling on the trigger/hammer and cylinder flutes.
 

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Beautiful work Ron! How do you do the jeweling on flutes and hammer?
For the hammer and trigger I secured them on an X-Y (cross slide) table on my drill press and used the Brownells engine turning kit.

For the cylinder I used the same engine turning kit but had to build a special fixture to hold the cylinder in the correct positions as a standard bolt turning fixture wouldn't hold it correctly due to the length and the odd shape at the extractor end. I worked 1/2 of the flute at a time. I went from the tapered end of the flute to the front and then had to reposition for the 2nd pass.
 

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Xringshooter
Those are nice, thanks for sharing. I always did like the Security six. I think it's a great gun & just the right size for a packing .357.

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NY Ruger

Did S&W give you any trouble about refinishing & overhauling a S&W without the lock? I've heard that they will tell a person the gun is irreprable & give a credit towards a new gun? Hope that is false!
Thanks.
Frank
 
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