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Somehow rust formed on the muzzle end of a nicely blued rifle. Just a few 'freckles' about 2 inches by 1/4 inch long. I don't want to ruin the pretty bluing by using steel wool. I want to minimize the damage. What do you recommend?
 

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I’ve successfully used a penny scraping on its edge...worked for me just fine.
 

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The penny is the old standby because they were made of copper. Newer pennies are not so unless you have an old wheat cent maybe be careful. There is copper wool but I'd try a little Kroil and a soft cloth first before anything abrasive.
 

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Big 45 Frontier Gun Cleaner works very nicely. It doesn't hurt the bluing, it lasts for years.
 

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I’ve successfully used a penny scraping on its edge...worked for me just fine.
It is best to use a real copper penny , dated 1982 or earlier .
Those are 95% Copper , soft and will not damage the underlying blue that remains. Soak the rust spot in penetrating oil or kerosene to soften the rust and help remove it .

In 1983 pennies began being made of Zinc , 97.5% and then copper plated.
The zinc is extremely hard and will remove blue and will scratch the metal.

I keep a supply of the real copper pennies on hand for rust removal...
Go slow and rub gently with an edge and use plenty of oil.

Copper wool is also good for rust removal...Steel wool will remove bluing if rubbed just a little too much .
Gary
 

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The penny is the old standby because they were made of copper. Newer pennies are not so unless you have an old wheat cent maybe be careful. There is copper wool but I'd try a little Kroil and a soft cloth first before anything abrasive.
Lincoln Memorial Pennies , introduced in 1959 and minted until 1982 , are 95% copper, same composition as the wheat penny except for the WWII steel wheat pennies.
As long as the penny is dated 1982 or before and not a steel penny it will be 95% copper and safe to use.

Wheat pennies are getting hard to find as are steel pennies .

Gary
 

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.......



In 1983 pennies began being made of Zinc , 97.5% and then copper plated.

The zinc is extremely hard and will remove blue and will scratch the metal.



.....

Actually...... 1982 cents come in copper and copperplate flavors!
1981 or earlier to remove guesswork.



Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

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you can use a 'fine' steel wool with any sort of rust oil, yes, even WD-40 rub lightly, in a circle motion,,,if you do not like using steel wool there is brass or even bronze wools same thing, use 'fine; rub lightly,,the old penny trick is for rust 'nicks' ( pitting) NOT for large areas.......
 

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I have always relied on 4 ought (0000) steel wool and gun oil rubbing lightly. Flitz metal polish is non abrasive and says on the label "Safe for factory bluing". I have become a fan of Flitz recently, and use it a lot.
 

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Somehow rust formed on the muzzle end of a nicely blued rifle. Just a few 'freckles' about 2 inches by 1/4 inch long. I don't want to ruin the pretty bluing by using steel wool. I want to minimize the damage. What do you recommend?
OSPHO ...causes iron oxide (rust) to chemically change to iron phosphate an inert, hard substance that turns the metal black.
 

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What ngashooter said ^^^^^
 

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It is a superb product on cars, where I've used it. That said, the iron phosphate still has to be removed or the rust will quickly re-form. I'd go with the other suggestions.
I've use it on rusted steel. Turned black...left it out to get rained on many more times...stayed black.
 

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I have never left it out, since the old-car boys and the label state otherwise. Perhaps if you fully coat the rust? I have always sanded metal and primed after using Ospho.
That was the first time I ever used it.
I was testing it's claims.
 

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Flitz metal polish is non abrasive and says on the label "Safe for factory bluing".
Is there any difference between Flitz and an abrasive tooth paste?
For example, Ultrabrite Advanced Whitening is #260 on the RDA relative dentin abrasivity scale, and is considered "harmfully abrasive" on teeth.

I plan to use this to polish the chambers of my Stoeger 12-gauge.
 

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Since the gun blue finish is just a specific type of “rust”, the goal is to covert the hydrated iron oxide (red, fluffy rust - Fe2O3) to magnetite (hard, black rust - Fe3O4). You can accomplish that by immersing the rusted part in boiling water and then rubbing (lightly) with very fine steel wool and oil. This is similar to the process for “rust bluing”.

Jim
 

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Since the gun blue finish is just a specific type of “rust”, the goal is to covert the hydrated iron oxide (red, fluffy rust - Fe2O3) to magnetite (hard, black rust - Fe3O4). You can accomplish that by immersing the rusted part in boiling water and then rubbing (lightly) with very fine steel wool and oil. This is similar to the process for “rust bluing”.

Jim
"(S)he blinded me with science!"

Nifty idea I would be inclined to try....
 
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