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Discussion Starter #1
I have a Ruger SRH Toklat in 454 that I also shoot .45 Colt from. I clean it every time I shoot but it's gotten that "crud ring".

Is there a particular solvent/solution that helps to remove that or is it just a matter of elbow grease? I didn't want really bear down and scratch the cylinder.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Do you put the BC removal cloth on a jag, a brush, or how do you get the cloth inside the cylinder?
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
The crud ring is inside the cylinder at the end of where the .45 Colt casing ends. That is approximately 1/2" from the end of the cylinder. There's no way to get your fingers inside the cylinder by which to apply pressure so I'd have to find some other means. Wrap it around a jag or brush?

Here is a picture of a crud ring (not my revolver) in a S&W:

 

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Different crud ring

I see what you mean. I use a Lewis lead remover for that, with the brass mesh. I believe Hoppes has bought out Lewis. They're offered at Brownells last time I looked. I thought you meant the discoloring at the front of the SS cylinder.
 

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I have a Ruger SRH Toklat in 454 that I also shoot .45 Colt from. I clean it every time I shoot but it's gotten that "crud ring".

Is there a particular solvent/solution that helps to remove that or is it just a matter of elbow grease? I didn't want really bear down and scratch the cylinder.
I would try a 50 cal bronze brush, except you will need the larger threaded rod for black powder. There is not much to scratch, when the cylinder is harder than the brush material.
 

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Chore boy copper scrubber!!!!!!!!!!!!! Pull a few strands off and wrap on a brush! By far the best way to remove the ring and heavy lead from barrels.. HOWEVER be sure it is a real copper scrubber and not a copper coated metal.
 

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Go to your local hardware store and buy 1/2 yard of copper screen material, the smaller the holes the better. Use kitchen shears and cut the screen into 1" or 1 1/2" squares. Fold them over a jag and attack the rings. It works better if you mount the jag in a drill motor. Option two, use a stainless tornado brush, of a tight fitting caliber, maybe a .410 brush, again mounted in the drill motor. Keep yer powder dry........robin
 

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I am reading this just curious. But one thing I do want to comment on is the picture of the cylinder. It is a great picture clear as a bell. You can see every detail.
 

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I use a flared .357 Maximum case to scrape the initial crude out of my .357 mags and then follow up with a Kroil soak and bronze brush. A flared .460 Magnum case and then Kroil soak and bronze brush should do the trick with your .454.

Best Regards,
ADP3
 

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Great thread! Thanks for all the cleaning tips. I get that with my GP100 too.

So far it seems to be just discoloration in mine. Like on the face of the cylinder. I usually run a bore snake with solvent through the cylinders while it's still hot. There doesn't seem to be any actual buildup that impacts loading or unloading. Both 38/357 cases still drop in fully and fall out without much need for the ejector. Maybe I'm just setting myself up for a much tougher crud removal job to come.

I'll try some of these suggestions if I start to have issues.
 

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The first reply was the best. Lead away cloth cut a patch wrapped around a brush works fast and easy I have been using same for forty years.
 

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Just gun solvent and the copper cleaning brush. Takes awhile, but I always get it off. My Ruger GP100 is stainless and it is really ugly unless I get it spotless after a trip to the range.:)
 

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The first reply was the best. Lead away cloth cut a patch wrapped around a brush works fast and easy I have been using same for forty years.
Agree, but I use a jag. Also, I apply Kroil and let it sit for a while, brush and then jag.
 

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If you shoot .45 LC cased ammo, clean before shooting .454 cased ammo...

Shooting the longer case on top of the crud basically 'sets' it like cement to the chamber wall making it much harder to clean...
 

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Are you sure it's crud and not just the shadow cast by the chamber throat? It is the slightly constricted opening in the chamber, just in front of the cartridge mouth, that the bullet passes through on its way into the forcing cone.
 
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