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We've had an ongoing discussion about "chamfering case mouths" so I thought I would list all the steps I can think of when I load rifle ammo on a single stage press with optimum accuracy in mind. I realize not everyone, including myself, does every step every time. I always start with a batch of presorted spent cases.
1. Inspect spent cases for damage, split necks, body dents, or anything that might render the case "not reloadable". The inspection process continues into all other steps.
1A Weigh all bullets and cull out any that are above or below acceptable weight limits.
1B. Weigh all primers and cull out those above or below standards.
2. With the proper shell holder installed, use a universal decapping die to deprime all cases.
2A. If cases have military crimped primers, use swaging tool to remove the peened rim the first time the case is reloaded.
3. Use ultrasonic cleaner or stainless pins in a tumbler to clean all cases ... inside and out, to include primer pocket.
4. Rinse all cases.
5. Allow cases to air dry or use a hair drier to speed up the process.
5A. Anneal cases if they are work hardened, typically every other reload.
5B After cases are clean, inspect again for damage to include stretched cases from excessive headspace..
6. Using the proper dies, (full length or neck only) lube and size all cases. Note: if loading for semi-auto, FL small base dies may be needed.
6A. If cases were neck sized only, test them in a rifle to make sure they will chamber.
7. Wipe the lube off all cases.
7A. Probe inside of all cases to check for potential case head separation and discard defective cases.
8. Use a 5/64" drill bit to test/uniform all primer flash holes (first time reload only).
9. Trim all cases to the longest uniform length possible that does not exceed SAAMI specs.
10. Deburr inside and outside of case mouth after each case is trimmed.
10A. Weigh all cases and cull out any irregular ones.
11. Place all cases in a vibratory case cleaner with corn cob media and Dillon's Rapid Polish. Run for about 1 hour.
12. Remove cases from vibratory case cleaner and remove all media from inside the case and primer pocket ... to include the flash hole.
13. Prime one case.
14. Check the case for a "high primer" by placing the primer end of the case on a flat surface to see if "wobbles". Correct if necessary.
15. Repeat steps 13 & 14 until all cases have been primed.
16. Use reloading manual to select the proper bullet, COL, powder, and powder drop for desired load.
17. Fill the powder hopper and trickler with the proper powder.
18. Adjust powder measure for a few tenths of a grain lower than the final charge weight, using a reloading scale.
19. Drop a powder charge in the scale's powder pan.
20. Trickle up the powder charge until it is the exact desired weight is achieved.
21. Pour powder into a primed case using a powder funnel.
22. With the bullet seating die installed and adjusted properly, seat a bullet to the desired cartridge overall length (COL) as noted in reloading manual.
23. Repeat steps 19~22 until all cases in the batch have been powdered and a bullet seated.
24. If ammo is to be used in a tube fed rifle or a semi-auto, install and adjust a crimp die, then crimp all cases.
25. Use a Hornady bullet comparator and caliper to measure all cases for a uniform bullet ogive seating depth, culling out any that are .002" too long or too short.
26. Using a runout gauge, test each loaded cartridge for bullet runout. If runout is more than .002", adjust as necessary until runout is .002" or less.
27. Do a visual inspection on each loaded cartridge and test each cartridge in a Wilson case gauge.
28. Box up all cartridges that passed the final inspection.
29. Label the box with: cartridge name, bullet type and weight, powder type and weight, primer type/brand, and date loaded.
Let's keep this to Rifle reloading only because there are a few different steps for handgun loads.
My questions are: Does anyone have additional steps that aren't included above?
Are there steps in the above list that you NEVER do?
Are there any steps in the above list that you don't know about?
Thanks, I'll be looking for your input.
1. Inspect spent cases for damage, split necks, body dents, or anything that might render the case "not reloadable". The inspection process continues into all other steps.
1A Weigh all bullets and cull out any that are above or below acceptable weight limits.
1B. Weigh all primers and cull out those above or below standards.
2. With the proper shell holder installed, use a universal decapping die to deprime all cases.
2A. If cases have military crimped primers, use swaging tool to remove the peened rim the first time the case is reloaded.
3. Use ultrasonic cleaner or stainless pins in a tumbler to clean all cases ... inside and out, to include primer pocket.
4. Rinse all cases.
5. Allow cases to air dry or use a hair drier to speed up the process.
5A. Anneal cases if they are work hardened, typically every other reload.
5B After cases are clean, inspect again for damage to include stretched cases from excessive headspace..
6. Using the proper dies, (full length or neck only) lube and size all cases. Note: if loading for semi-auto, FL small base dies may be needed.
6A. If cases were neck sized only, test them in a rifle to make sure they will chamber.
7. Wipe the lube off all cases.
7A. Probe inside of all cases to check for potential case head separation and discard defective cases.
8. Use a 5/64" drill bit to test/uniform all primer flash holes (first time reload only).
9. Trim all cases to the longest uniform length possible that does not exceed SAAMI specs.
10. Deburr inside and outside of case mouth after each case is trimmed.
10A. Weigh all cases and cull out any irregular ones.
11. Place all cases in a vibratory case cleaner with corn cob media and Dillon's Rapid Polish. Run for about 1 hour.
12. Remove cases from vibratory case cleaner and remove all media from inside the case and primer pocket ... to include the flash hole.
13. Prime one case.
14. Check the case for a "high primer" by placing the primer end of the case on a flat surface to see if "wobbles". Correct if necessary.
15. Repeat steps 13 & 14 until all cases have been primed.
16. Use reloading manual to select the proper bullet, COL, powder, and powder drop for desired load.
17. Fill the powder hopper and trickler with the proper powder.
18. Adjust powder measure for a few tenths of a grain lower than the final charge weight, using a reloading scale.
19. Drop a powder charge in the scale's powder pan.
20. Trickle up the powder charge until it is the exact desired weight is achieved.
21. Pour powder into a primed case using a powder funnel.
22. With the bullet seating die installed and adjusted properly, seat a bullet to the desired cartridge overall length (COL) as noted in reloading manual.
23. Repeat steps 19~22 until all cases in the batch have been powdered and a bullet seated.
24. If ammo is to be used in a tube fed rifle or a semi-auto, install and adjust a crimp die, then crimp all cases.
25. Use a Hornady bullet comparator and caliper to measure all cases for a uniform bullet ogive seating depth, culling out any that are .002" too long or too short.
26. Using a runout gauge, test each loaded cartridge for bullet runout. If runout is more than .002", adjust as necessary until runout is .002" or less.
27. Do a visual inspection on each loaded cartridge and test each cartridge in a Wilson case gauge.
28. Box up all cartridges that passed the final inspection.
29. Label the box with: cartridge name, bullet type and weight, powder type and weight, primer type/brand, and date loaded.
Let's keep this to Rifle reloading only because there are a few different steps for handgun loads.
My questions are: Does anyone have additional steps that aren't included above?
Are there steps in the above list that you NEVER do?
Are there any steps in the above list that you don't know about?
Thanks, I'll be looking for your input.