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Discussion Starter #1
I just purchased a new Ruger 10/22 Target model and found it moving quite a lot in the stock. I removed the action from the stock to see if there were any obvious high spots, seeing none, put it back in the stock.

I then tightened the bedding screw quite a bit and that reduced the front to rear rocking, but not entirely. I'd hate to strip out the threads by over tightening the screw.

Anyone have a solution? I thought about using some machinists blue, but don't know if that old trick would work here.
 

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High volume production line manufacturing means you don't always get a perfect mating and fit. Various levels of bedding to choose from that'll help.
 

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If the barrel was not free floated and was supported by the fore end of the stock it would not be able to rock...

Once you go to a floated barrel the whole gun will rock inside the stock front to back...

The front to back can be solved with masking tape shimming under the v-block...

If you pillar bed the action it will basically do the same thing only better...

Add layers of tape until the v-block is flush with the receiver where the take down screw hole is...

Not sure if you have front to rear or side to side slop in the receiver bed but you can do the same there with tape...don't need a lot...it will snug up nicely...

Only takes a few minutes and does a lot of good...nothing permanent or difficult and it's free...
 

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Tape is certainly not the route I'd take nor suggest. With bedding, you want a solid base to bed to not a spongy material such as tape. At a very minimum maybe cork but even then you'll get compression of the material. Free/cheap or not, if it's worth doing, why not do it good?
 

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Is the rifle brand new? If so, I'd suggest contacting Ruger about it. It shouldn't be "rocking" straight out of the box.
 

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I polished a painted Charger down to the bare aluminum so it looks like a SS one and it then had a lot of play. I shimmed the back of the receiver with a folded up match book and that took care of most of the slack. I would not recommend this for a rifle nor would I say to put it in too tight.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
A tape shim sounds like a good idea to determine how much to either add or substract from the receiver bedding. Then a more permanent solution based on that can be done.

Thanks for the quick replies.
 

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Pat, the 'machinists blue' trick with a stock Ruger 10/22 stock and barrel wouldn't tell you much anyway. In my bedding project, which you can find here, I discovered that the 'empty space' between the stock and barrel is absolutely huge.

In fact, the space between the stock and barrel is so huge that I can't see tape making much of a difference, either.

Now I did the bedding with RTV, which some guys have had some success with, but the results I got were positively weird. If you visit the page, please leave some suggestions on what to do, I'm running out of ideas.
 

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Hello again, I fixed the weird bedding results and wrote them up here. Also, I invented (at least I think I did) the 'tunable barrel band' which you, too, can get for about $3.50. It works! And that's in the article, too.
 

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Larry the Conservative
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Nice backyard remedy for a aggravating problem. Thanks for the write up. Very Well Done!
 

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Pat, the 'machinists blue' trick with a stock Ruger 10/22 stock and barrel wouldn't tell you much anyway. In my bedding project, which you can find here, I discovered that the 'empty space' between the stock and barrel is absolutely huge.

In fact, the space between the stock and barrel is so huge that I can't see tape making much of a difference, either.

Now I did the bedding with RTV, which some guys have had some success with, but the results I got were positively weird. If you visit the page, please leave some suggestions on what to do, I'm running out of ideas.
The tape makes all the difference in the world and if you read it in context you will see that the tape goes under the v-block not the barrel channel...the area under the v-block is flat and the receiver makes wood to metal contact when bolted down...if not...there is something wrong with that stock/action fit to begin with that is not normal...

The purpose of the tape shim is to make the bottom of the v-block flush with the bottom of the receiver so it doesn't teeter on the mounting block...it is in no way to be misconstrued to mean that tape was used to bed the barrel to the stock...that is completely different thing altogether...

The difference is in the .015" thickness range...very small gap...but when it's not flat and not in solid contact on both sides of the bolt...and also loose in the receiver bed as well...it will teeter...a small amount of tape quickly and effectively completely eliminates all that if you do the sides and rear of the receiver bed (necessary in factory stocks) and under the v-block at the same time...

Takes five minutes and a couple of inches of masking tape...done...

Have done several with floated barrels now...going back a year...you can't beat the tape fix for fast, easy, effective, free...it's not debatable...it's not speculation...it has passed the test of time and 10k rounds of ammo...

Just to be clear...the only time tape under the v-block matters is with a floated barrel...simple as that...however, tape on the side/rear walls of the receiver bed is needed if you don't have a barrel band and the receiver is a sloppy fit in the stock...

If people want to go to extremes with bedding like it was a high powered target rifle that's fine but there is zero need or benefit...just a lot of work and maybe extra cost if you don't already have bedding material...

So if your barreled action moves around in the stock because of loose fit masking tape WILL fix it...
 
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