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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi everyone, first time posting here, glad to join a community with many knowledgable gunsmiths here.

I was looking to replace my A2 front sight gas block on my Ruger 556 with a low profile one in order to slip on a free float handguard. Well, I've gotten past the notorious removal of the A2 front sight, however I am less confident about installing the new low profile gas block I purchased. I purchased the AT3 Tactical low profile micro steel gas block, it uses two set screws which I noticed is common. However the 556 I am installing it on doesnt seem to have the holes for the set scews(Apologies if this isnt the right terminology, I am new to these things). Instead of the holes for the set scews it has two holes where it looks like pins would go to pin it to the barrel (I have attached a picture for reference). There is also nothing on the underside of the barrel either.

My questions to those gunsmithing guru's out there is: Did I purchase the wrong gas block? Do I need to purchase one with pins instead of set screws? If possible I would like to be able to get this accomplished without drilling holes in gas block I have, or dimpling the barrel as I am not confident I could do those accurately.

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Its no big deal. The set screws are what you need to install the gas block. basically if you have a dremel tool with a cutting blade you can install it.

Ok so slide the gasblock onto the barrel. The rollpin hole that secures the gas tube should be closer to the muzzle. Slide the gas block till it rests on the barrel flange. You will have to eye ball the block from the top to make sure its perfectly 90 degrees by looking at the receiver and block. Insert the set screw and tighten it. Check the 90 degree position. The insert the second set screw and tighten down. Ok then remove both set screws and the block. You should see marks on the barrel where the set screws contacted it.

Now turn the barrel upside down and use the dremel to make 2 indentions for the set screws to bite into. They dont have to be deep just enough to have a lip for the set screw to dig into. Once thats complete slide the gas block on an check the alignment by tightening down the set screws. If everything is good, one at a time remove the set screws and add red locitie. Reinsert them. Then install the gas tube with the gas hole facing down.

Thats it in a nutshell, lost count how many ive done. Takes about 20 minutes. Goodluck! if you have questions fire away.
 

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Great post Tacky.
 
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Thanks Jason........you saved me a boatload of typing. :p
 
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Great post Tacky.
Its tough to explain, but really easy in person to do. i tend to use the clamp on gas blocks on barrels that have been drilled for taper pins. It always seems one of the set screws will be where the taper pin was formerly although not on a ruger since they are on the top. Usually the one close to the flange.

Another trick i do is after installing the gas block, i stick a magpul dummy round in the chamber with my finger pushing it in, then apply compressed air into the muzzle, you should feel the air blowing into the receiver from the gas tube if its installed correctly. Just another little trick i use.
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Its no big deal. The set screws are what you need to install the gas block. basically if you have a dremel tool with a cutting blade you can install it.

Ok so slide the gasblock onto the barrel. The rollpin hole that secures the gas tube should be closer to the muzzle. Slide the gas block till it rests on the barrel flange. You will have to eye ball the block from the top to make sure its perfectly 90 degrees by looking at the receiver and block. Insert the set screw and tighten it. Check the 90 degree position. The insert the second set screw and tighten down. Ok then remove both set screws and the block. You should see marks on the barrel where the set screws contacted it.

Now turn the barrel upside down and use the dremel to make 2 indentions for the set screws to bite into. They dont have to be deep just enough to have a lip for the set screw to dig into. Once thats complete slide the gas block on an check the alignment by tightening down the set screws. If everything is good, one at a time remover the set screws and add red locitie. Reinsert them. The install the gas tube with the gas hole facing down.

Thats it in a nutshell, lost count how many ive done. Takes about 20 minutes. Goodluck! if you have questions fire away.
I appreciate the in depth solution, if I had a dremel I would be out in the garage working on it right now, your post makes it seem pretty dang easy. However since I do not own/never used a dremel, and I am a broke college student who already spent $120 on tools for this job, Im trying to be the most cost efficient I can. Is there any way I can simply purchase a special gas block that has pin holes and "pin" the gas block to the barrel using the two pin holes in the picture? Or will I need to use a dremel for the set screw indentations no matter which way I decide to go?

I dont mind returning the purchased gas block if theres one out there that would save me the stress of somehow f'ing up the barrel with the dremel.

I appreciate all the great feedback!
 

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I totally understand, i was a broke college kid once before. I am also glad i can offer help to somebody new to the platform.
Well i can steer you in the right direction so you wont have to cut the stops in the barrel. All you will need is an allen head wrench and loctite to install this one, minus the punches for the gas tube roll pin which all use.

This is what i use when ckamp in is required, its a clamp on gas.block that basically uses the clamping force to keep it planted on the barrel. Its steel. and usa made quality.



You will probably have to shop around to find one but i highly recommend them. They fit under most quadrails too except for super slim ones. Your looking for the .750 gas block, since your barrel im prerty sure is a .750. Let me know if you have questions.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I totally understand, i was a broke college kid once before. I am also glad i can offer help to somebody new to the platform.
Well i can steer you in the right direction so you wont have to cut the stops in the barrel. All you will need is an allen head wrench and loctite to install this one, minus the punches for the gas tube roll pin which all use.

This is what i use when ckamp in is required, its a clamp on gas.block that basically uses the clamping force to keep it planted on the barrel. Its steel. and usa made quality.



You will probably have to shop around to find one but i highly recommend them. They fit under most quadrails too except for super slim ones. Your looking for the .750 gas block, since your barrel im prerty sure is a .750. Let me know if you have questions.
Awesome this is exactly the kind of thing I was looking for. Ill be looking to return my current gas block and purchase the clamped version. Ill try to keep this thread updated once it arrives.
 

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To build on Tacky's advice, you don't need a Dremel. You can make your dimples if you have a drill and good, sharp bits.

The barrel I had for my .300blk build, had one dimple and needed a second one made. I lined everything up like Tacky described and marked the spot for the other dimple. I drilled down with a bit about the diameter of the block's set screw and then "countersunk" around it with a bigger bit.

First hole...and yes, should have used a center-punch.
148664


"Countersinking"
148665


Use lots of oil and go very slowly.

Good luck,

Aqualung
 
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I agree aqua. A drill bit and press can do it too, i have just become very good at doing it with a dremel and cutting blade, and is usually quicker than setting up the press to get the perfect dimple. Yes a center punch is mandatory, a good spring loaded one can do it too.
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I totally understand, i was a broke college kid once before. I am also glad i can offer help to somebody new to the platform.
Well i can steer you in the right direction so you wont have to cut the stops in the barrel. All you will need is an allen head wrench and loctite to install this one, minus the punches for the gas tube roll pin which all use.

This is what i use when ckamp in is required, its a clamp on gas.block that basically uses the clamping force to keep it planted on the barrel. Its steel. and usa made quality.



You will probably have to shop around to find one but i highly recommend them. They fit under most quadrails too except for super slim ones. Your looking for the .750 gas block, since your barrel im prerty sure is a .750. Let me know if you have questions.
I found one online here. However I havent seen this design with the two large openings on either side. Would this affect anything or would this theoretically work fine?
 

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Yes it should work ok, the side metal thats been removed is to reduce weight.

I will look right quick to see if my suppliers have the yhm.
 

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Here are a few instock




 

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The pin hole on top of barrel where gas block hole is haa nothing to so with mounting your has block. Just slide your gas block on tighten with allen heads. Loosen takenaa block off use drill to make small divots. They dont even have to be big . Yes a punch to start your drill bit is good. Then proceed slowly. Heck if your worried apple red loc tite to allen heads and tighten without drilling
I have two ar gas block that I have not even loc tite too as if yet and no divots drilled. They have been to the range 4 times each and shot hundreds ofbroynds with no issue
The allen heads put pressure against opposite side if barrel to hold gas block in place. Th divots provide a more secure attachment. Dont iver think it. Its simple.

I have pulled gas block.off of.manufacturers uppers with no divots.
 

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Think the dimples are for added protection which is not as strong as the taper pin design. When it heats up from firing the block could twist If knocked hard without the dimples. To me its an added layer of security i insist on. Alot of manufacturers do those gas blocks with barrel dimples as well, DPMS used too.
 
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