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Discussion Starter #1
I just ordered the rifle this morning but I know the trigger will be too heavy for me. Do you trim the coils or is it better to buy the M-Carbo spring? It is $12.95 but I imagine it will be $20 by the time you pay "shipping and handling" for what is about a 25 cent item but I know they have to make money just like the rest of us. There are probably others out there too and if any of you have a suggestion I would appreciate any advice or opinions.
 

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Corps Commander NGV
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Keep the factory spring to put back in it should you decide to sell the rifle. M-Carbo has good products and I think shipping was reasonable when I bought the spring kit for my T/C Compass.
 

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I ordered the mcarbo spring. I was waiting on my replacement stock from ruger to install it. I tried their springs for my 10/22 and really liked the results.

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Another vote for the mcarbo trigger spring. I think I paid $18 to my door. Brought my trigger weight down to around 2lbs.


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Hi - I bought an American a couple years ago and made some DIY mods instead of Mcarbo (who I've used for SKS mod). Removed Trigger spring and put in spring from an ink pen, cut ca 1 /4” off spring; Polished inside of Trigger Housing and lubed trigger at pivot pin; polished tip of Safety trigger where it rubs on the sear spring to smooth action of that safety. Then I polished the Cam Surfaces of the Bolt with 800g paper folded onto a small file. I polished all ‘sharp edges’ then ran the bolt and firing trigger about 20 times. I lubed the cam surfaces w/synth-grease. Seems a bit better. – trigger now under 3# ! Also, the bolt sounded like a zipper due to lathe marks, so I 'polished' it with 800g wet/dry to smooth it. Others have advised cycling the bolt - like about 'several hundred cycles' - Not my cuppa! Finally, I wanted to try to reduce pull more, so took trigger blade out tonite. I took the safety blade spring out and replaced it with 1/3 of a pen spring (remdr of trigger return spring mod done in July) and removed the trigger return spring! I lubed ALL pins & holes and blade sides with grease and polished the edges, pin hole, and safety contact point of the safety blade, then reassembled. The Safety will still Work properly, no worries !! NOTE - MOST OF THIS WILL VOID WARRANTY, so proceed at your risk.
BTW, I'm in Canada and the spring set from mcarbo would have cost me about $50 CDN to my door back then, and now they are not shipping to Canada.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
There are various springs available at Ace Hardware. I recently bought a packet of 3 (only way they come, at least at Ace) to replace a small spring I lost on my priming apparatus on my loading press. This could work and if not they have other springs. I got the Savage down to 1# 12 Oz. It helped but it is still not what I would call an accurate rifle. I tried it again today with some variation on the handloads. I thought I was getting someplace but the last group wasn't good. Overall average would be about 1 MOA. In fairness to the gun, I didn't let the barrel cool between shots on the last group. Might have made a difference, might not have. Probably good enough if you were hunting but it should do better than that. I have about given up on it. Sometimes you just get a lemon.
 

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Hi - I bought an American a couple years ago and made some DIY mods instead of Mcarbo (who I've used for SKS mod). Removed Trigger spring and put in spring from an ink pen, cut ca 1 /4” off spring; Polished inside of Trigger Housing and lubed trigger at pivot pin; polished tip of Safety trigger where it rubs on the sear spring to smooth action of that safety. Then I polished the Cam Surfaces of the Bolt with 800g paper folded onto a small file. I polished all ‘sharp edges’ then ran the bolt and firing trigger about 20 times. I lubed the cam surfaces w/synth-grease. Seems a bit better. – trigger now under 3# ! Also, the bolt sounded like a zipper due to lathe marks, so I 'polished' it with 800g wet/dry to smooth it. Others have advised cycling the bolt - like about 'several hundred cycles' - Not my cuppa! Finally, I wanted to try to reduce pull more, so took trigger blade out tonite. I took the safety blade spring out and replaced it with 1/3 of a pen spring (remdr of trigger return spring mod done in July) and removed the trigger return spring! I lubed ALL pins & holes and blade sides with grease and polished the edges, pin hole, and safety contact point of the safety blade, then reassembled. The Safety will still Work properly, no worries !! NOTE - MOST OF THIS WILL VOID WARRANTY, so proceed at your risk.
BTW, I'm in Canada and the spring set from mcarbo would have cost me about $50 CDN to my door back then, and now they are not shipping to Canada.
And you didnt make a video for the rest of us to follow. Shame on you .

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
 

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Keep the factory spring to put back in it should you decide to sell the rifle.
+1. I bought a couple of factory replacement springs for my American Centerfire and American Rimfire (same spring, the triggers are basically identical) from Ruger for about $2 or so each. I kept the factory springs intact and used the replacements to experiment with. I wound up cutting about 2 coils off of each and that reduced the trigger pulls to right around 2 pounds.

I highly recommend AGAINST removing the trigger safety blade. I've seen this recommended and I think it would make the trigger unsafe, particularly not drop safe.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
+1. I bought a couple of factory replacement springs for my American Centerfire and American Rimfire (same spring, the triggers are basically identical) from Ruger for about $2 or so each. I kept the factory springs intact and used the replacements to experiment with. I wound up cutting about 2 coils off of each and that reduced the trigger pulls to right around 2 pounds.

I highly recommend AGAINST removing the trigger safety blade. I've seen this recommended and I think it would make the trigger unsafe, particularly not drop safe.

I completely agree with everything you said.
 

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Hi - I bought an American a couple years ago and made some DIY mods instead of Mcarbo (who I've used for SKS mod). Removed Trigger spring and put in spring from an ink pen, cut ca 1 /4” off spring; Polished inside of Trigger Housing and lubed trigger at pivot pin; polished tip of Safety trigger where it rubs on the sear spring to smooth action of that safety. Then I polished the Cam Surfaces of the Bolt with 800g paper folded onto a small file. I polished all ‘sharp edges’ then ran the bolt and firing trigger about 20 times. I lubed the cam surfaces w/synth-grease. Seems a bit better. – trigger now under 3# ! Also, the bolt sounded like a zipper due to lathe marks, so I 'polished' it with 800g wet/dry to smooth it. Others have advised cycling the bolt - like about 'several hundred cycles' - Not my cuppa! Finally, I wanted to try to reduce pull more, so took trigger blade out tonite. I took the safety blade spring out and replaced it with 1/3 of a pen spring (remdr of trigger return spring mod done in July) and removed the trigger return spring! I lubed ALL pins & holes and blade sides with grease and polished the edges, pin hole, and safety contact point of the safety blade, then reassembled. The Safety will still Work properly, no worries !! NOTE - MOST OF THIS WILL VOID WARRANTY, so proceed at your risk.
BTW, I'm in Canada and the spring set from mcarbo would have cost me about $50 CDN to my door back then, and now they are not shipping to Canada.
I have used ink pen springs for my Rugers for 40 years. The best were from expensive pen sets, they are/were stainless steel. I reworked my Ruger triggers in the same manner as you did, resulting in 2# triggers and very crisp.
 

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GP fan et al - You mis-read my post. I did NOT 'remove' the safety blade permanently. I just replaced the blade spring with the 'balance' of the pen-spring I used in the earlier return spring replacement. That return spring WAS removed permanently, as many forums have indicated acceptable.
 
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