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I'm having issues with my Ruger GP100 4" FTFs/light primer strikes.. Need a cure.


Alright I've been googling for a good hour trying to find an answer to this issue and nothin has come up accept FS FTF threads and guys throwing all sorts of random shots in the dark and can tell its just guessing..


The story: I picked up a Ruger GP100 4" SS from a guy on another forum I'm frequent in on a PPT. Guy has the gun polished by a smith got rid of the billboard and got new grips sights and the whole deal. He also got the trigger lightened polished and had the smith replace the springs for the trigger group..

Now I am a new owner of this GP but have wanted one and read up on them on and off for the past 2 years and done massive research on them after I purchased mine..

The guy told me this was his and his fathers fun gun to blow good $$ because they could but was selling it for another project (cowboy action shooters). Anyways he said the gun only had about 50 rounds or 1 box through it which it did look like was the truth..

Anyways I headed to the range and I bought 1k or both fiocci 357 online purchase and 38 special from a very respectable factory reloading company a guy helps out another forum I frequent with group buys (supplier of range ammo) and every few I got FTF/light primer strikes..

Figured it was the ammo due to it being on the 38 reloaded special even tho I have already fired 4k of 9mm and 2k 45ACP reloads from this supplier with Out a single issue out of my glocks but i figured maybe it might be a bad batch because I like to rule out ammo first being 80% of firearms issues. So I threw some of the 357 factory ammo and a few min later same thing.. Then it started doing it randomly for both 357/38 then sometimes would fire on the 4th or 5th strike on that primer... My buddy (works at the range) noticed when you hit the butt of the gun or squeezed it or something it would fire fine he said it was a spring issue being they have several wheel guns they rent out and constantly fix..

So he took it to their bench and stretched the spring and said that should fix it.. I'm not sure if that did anything haven't fired any shots to confirm but what else could be the issue..

So have at it fellas lets see what the Ruger forums can pull up. Trying out a new forum see if I like it over here.. And being my first wheel gun see what you guys can come up with.. Enlighten me a little or explain the mechanics to rule and figure out issues with this.
 

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Ck32, Most likely the hammer spring was replaced with a reduced power spring. This can cause light primer strikes. Order and install a new factory hammer spring and your problems will go away.
 

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Seems like the stock springs were replaced by new ones that are much too weak. Get a set of either Wilson combat or Wolf spring kits and try the heavier springs in your GP100 (the 10 and 12 pound springs).
 

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Discussion Starter #4
But from my google foo I did I pretty much came up with its either the:

1: Spring job
2: Hammer drag
3: Transfer bar

And I apologize ahead of time if here is spelling errors due to using my phone to type this up.. But here is some port of my baby.. Also I have all the stock parts that came with the GP including factory spring grips and sights.

Some porn for you guys.







 

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Discussion Starter #5
Ck32, Most likely the hammer spring was replaced with a reduced power spring. This can cause light primer strikes. Order and install a new factory hammer spring and your problems will go away.
Seems like the stock springs were replaced by new ones that are much too weak. Get a set of either Wilson combat or Wolf spring kits and try the heavier springs in your GP100 (the 10 and 12 pound springs).
Ok that's what I was thinking might be the issue. And if I'm not mistaken I believe he installed wolf springs.
 

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See if he has either the heavier springs for the GP100 or even the original factory stock springs as well or still? If he does and you can snag them for free, could save you a few bucks. Otherwise, either get new ones from Ruger (as Iowegan suggested), Wilson or Wolf.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
See if he has either the heavier springs for the GP100 or even the original factory stock springs as well or still? If he does and you can snag them for free, could save you a few bucks. Otherwise, either get new ones from Ruger (as Iowegan suggested), Wilson or Wolf.
Ill try the original spring he gave me with it.. But if the spring isn't the issue what else could it be?? That's where I need the help.. I'm assuming its probabl the spring but I'm worried when I replace it it won't fix the issue.. Then what could it be..? Also trying to be more familiar with wheel guns and how to solve their issues and trouble shoot better.
 

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If the original spring does not solve the problem, then I would give Ruger a call (barring anything Iowegan can come up with) and have them fix it. The only other thing I could think of would be the firing pin itself, which again, would be a call to Ruger AFAIK.
 

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If the original spring does not solve the problem, then I would give Ruger a call (barring anything Iowegan can come up with) and have them fix it. The only other thing I could think of would be the firing pin itself, which again, would be a call to Ruger AFAIK.
Ck, This is jumping ahead but if you can't resolve your ignition issue on your own can you get the smith involved who did all the custom work? He should stand behind his work. If that is a dead end you may still want to find a local smith to correct your issues versus sending it off to Ruger. Based on a recent conversation I had with Ruger customer service they will be less than enthusiastic to work on a revolver with the rollmarks removed and internal modifications.

I'm betting on the hammer spring and I'll be surprised if you need to do anything else but replace it. Beautiful GP! Thanks for the great photos.

Wave
 

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Weak primer strikes

Ck, This is jumping ahead but if you can't resolve your ignition issue on your own can you get the smith involved who did all the custom work? He should stand behind his work. If that is a dead end you may still want to find a local smith to correct your issues versus sending it off to Ruger. Based on a recent conversation I had with Ruger customer service they will be less than enthusiastic to work on a revolver with the rollmarks removed and internal modifications.

I'm betting on the hammer spring and I'll be surprised if you need to do anything else but replace it. Beautiful GP! Thanks for the great photos.

Wave
I agree. Your problem is most likely the mainspring(hammer spring) has been replaced with an after market reduced power spring. :D
 

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Hearing this from other guys too. IOWEGAN is always right. Sounds like you need 12 or 14# springs...

There is a fascination with "light" trigger on revolvers. But it seems more important that there be a good trigger. Generally, RH triggers end of pretty good with a bit of use and practice (dry fire). Smooth and crisp with little overtravel seems most important. I have had to draw a revolver under stress and in retrospection I think I am really glad I did NOT have "light" springs. The adrenaline kind of turned me into the Hulk. I think the relative weight of the trigger pull was the least of my problems if I had tried to fire the gun.

(By the way, the scenario above was no heroic encounter with bad guys. It was a scary "wake-up" call by a black bear stomping around and pushing his face into the tent and sniffing around. We musta passed his smell test cause he walked away. It took me a half hour to calm down. I highly recommend it! )
 

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I run 10# trigger & 12# hammer , I shimm trigger, hammer & DA pawl on the hammer for consistent DA/SA pulls . I mill.018" off the hammer face .

While this casing did`nt come from my GP I have very similar primer strikes.

 
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