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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys - new here and new to the Ruger Mk1 although I have had a Mk2 for a while.

I bought a second hand Mk1 and it seems to occasionally fire multiple rounds with one trigger pull or the other day it fired when I lightly tapped the back of the slide. :eek: Not real safe. What is going on and how do I fix it????
 

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This sounds as if the hammer and sear engagement angles are improper or badly worn. I would replace both as soon as possible due to an unsafe firearm.

R,
Bullseye
 

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trigger bar

you may need to check the trigger bar ( disconnector) may be sticking, ( a burr, lack of oil) and hanging up, this can also cause the sear to pull off the hammer notch......
as bullseye said, wear, improper angle of the sear and hammer are need to be looked at.

you can easliy check this all out, by removing the upper assembly, leave it off and reinstall the mainspring hosusng to actually "work the action" look in and see just whats going on.
 

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Check the sear pivot pin and sear spring

In addition to Bullseye's comment I would also check that the sear pin is in both sides of the frame, is not bent or broken and the spring is not bent. These can be checked easily with the upper off.
Stew



This sounds as if the hammer and sear engagement angles are improper or badly worn. I would replace both as soon as possible due to an unsafe firearm.

R,
Bullseye
 

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I am not familiar with the inner workings of that model but could it not also be something causing the firing pin to stick essentially resulting in a slam fire?
Or in the case of a rim fire something interfering with the extractor causing the round to chamber in front of the extractor and he extractor hitting the rim resulting in ignition of the primer?
Not saying that is the case here but generally speaking those are two items to inspect carefully for wear, damage, debris, and proper lubrication.
 

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make sure the firing pin stop pin is intact. If the pin is bent or missing, dry firing (such as is required to disassemble) will cause the FP to strike the chamber end of the barrel. This can raise a burr and cause slam fires.
 

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I had a 1965 model Ruger Standard go fully auto after about 9 years of heavy use. It turned out that bullet coatings and grease had built up behind my trigger and were preventing the sear from working properly.

The gunk was removed from behind the trigger and the gun worked properly. It still works properly over 40 years later and I have not replaced ANY of the original parts.

I hope that your fix is as easy as mine was.

Mark
 

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Second hand could also mean someone tried to do a trigger job or some other modification and messed it up. Still a thorough cleaning and inspection of all parts seems like the most immediate thing to do.
 

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I had a 1965 model Ruger Standard go fully auto after about 9 years of heavy use. It turned out that bullet coatings and grease had built up behind my trigger and were preventing the sear from working properly.

The gunk was removed from behind the trigger and the gun worked properly. It still works properly over 40 years later and I have not replaced ANY of the original parts.

I hope that your fix is as easy as mine was.

Mark
This is what happened with Granny's 10/22. She kept it after Grandad passed away and went full auto at one point.

Of course my whole family knows I'm a shade tree smith (I can do a hell of a trigger job on S&W revolvers) and a Marine vet, so she asked me to check it out.

That's all it needed, a good cleaning. He had one of the earliest productions and I don't think it'd ever been cleaned. I know I put a few K down the pipe myself, when I was young and didn't know guns need more than an external wipe down.
 

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Let us know what you discover, please.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Wow - huge amount of knowledge out there :)

I'll pull it apart this week and try some of the suggestions and report here with (hopeful) success.
 
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