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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I recently purchased a Single Ten and am in love with it, well sort of. The cylinder got stuck and I strained to pull the hammer back, it finally did but now whenever I cycle to that spot the cylinder doesn't advance and the hammer doesn't fall. I can count every ten times then no dice. I noticed two notches on the cylinder where it is advanced and I reckon that's my problem.

I have attached a picture with the two "notches" marked. Anyone else ever see this issue?

Guess I have to call Ruger tomorrow (if they're open on Columbus Day)


 

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Why did the cylinder get stuck? The only times that has happened to me with my Single Ten was when I was using some Remington Golden Bullet ammo and the rim of the casing was too thick or deformed causing the base of the casing to bind when turning the cylinder while loading the gun. I had to remove the cylinder to get the offending round out. I have had that happen several times with Remington Golden Bullet. I never use them in my ST now. Might have happened with Winchester 555 as well.

Did something like that happen?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Mix of Federal Lightening (50 pack), Federal Bulk (550 rounds), and Winchester Bulk. I can't recall which one caused the jam as I wasn't thinking it was the ammo. The first time I shot it I used all three and didn't have any issue. This was only my second outing with it.
 

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I just looked at the cylinder of my new (as of now unfired) Single Ten, and your cylinder does look rough.
 

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If you keep your cylinder that clean all the time then it would seem to be limited to a few issues..

I have a Single Six that would do the same thing. I had to keep the cylinder absolutely clean to make sure the rounds would fully seat in there. If I got some gunk (shooting .22 who doesn't?) in the counter bores a round would sit proud of the cylinder and hangup as it went by the frame/firing pin area. It would always be a short day of shooting as it didn't take long to get dirty enough to cause the problem.

Upon close examination I found that the face of the frame wasn't square to the back of the cylinder. In fact the area to the left of the firing pin was pretty close and caused the problem.

I used a good fine file and squared things up and used some cold blue.

But I'd certainly hold your gun up to the light and check the spacing.
 

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Mix of Federal Lightening (50 pack), Federal Bulk (550 rounds), and Winchester Bulk. I can't recall which one caused the jam as I wasn't thinking it was the ammo. The first time I shot it I used all three and didn't have any issue. This was only my second outing with it.
I had used the offending ammo before and occasionally would get a "tight" spot as I turned the cylinder, but it would still turn and I could see a scrape mark on the bottom of the rim. I thought it was dirt in the cylinder counter bore area as well. When I finally realized what was happening and the cylinder wouldn't turn at all by hand and I pulled the center pin and dropped the cylinder out, I could see the round sitting high. Pulled the bullet and replaced it with another and all was fine. This didn't happen all the time, but enough to make me suspect the ammo. I could actually see the rim to case area being somewhat rounded and not as squared off as other rounds that would seat properly.

After loading, if I could not turn the cylinder without any binding or dragging at all, I would check the rear of the rim for even a slight drag mark. The really bad rounds would bind the cylinder to the point that it would not turn at all. Rather than force anything, I just dropped the cylinder out and removed the bad round. Dirt was never and issue here as the problem had occurred on a freshly cleaned cylinder.

I don't think I have seen the problem with Federal bulk, but I know I haven't with CCI. It was either Remington Golden or Winchester 555 bulk that was the culprit here.

I saved a bad round and when compared with a good one, the difference was apparent, but only if you were looking closely for it.

Maybe others may weigh in on this problem, but this is what I have discerned.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Upon close examination I found that the face of the frame wasn't square to the back of the cylinder. In fact the area to the left of the firing pin was pretty close and caused the problem.

I used a good fine file and squared things up and used some cold blue.

But I'd certainly hold your gun up to the light and check the spacing.
I checked, both left and right have the same spacing but I looked at it from the side and the top is a lot closer than the bottom, I can see light under the pin cylinder clearly but not at the top.
 

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I took a few pictures this morning of 2 rounds of Remington Golden Bullet. The one on the left (in both photos) caused severe binding (would not advance) and caused me to remove the cylinder to get it out. The bullet on the right worked properly.
If you look carefully, you can see that the lip of the rim is not well defined causing it to not insert fully into the cylinder.

I would not be surprised if similar manufacturing defects in the cheaper bulk ammo is also the culprit in semi-autos malfunctions, especially FTE.






In this photo you can see that the flash is not reflected as much due to the radius or curvature in the lip area of the defective round on the left.

 

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The cylinder got stuck and I strained to pull the hammer back, it finally did but now whenever
FYI, You should help it go around by turning the cylinder by hand. That way you don't put so much strain on the pawl tip. I've had to do this several times to with .45ACP rounds in my convertibles. In fact, sometimes I'll rotate the cylinder around with the gate open just to make sure I can do so.
 

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On my ST, with the gate open, I need to rotate the cylinder forward - just to the point of it almost, but not quite, clicking on the next notch - before I close the gate. If I don't do this, the hammer will sometimes not cock after the gate is closed. Really no big deal once it becomes habit and a very small price to pay for the superb accuracy I am getting out of my ST, so I agree with rclark, help things along before closing that gate.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
FYI, You should help it go around by turning the cylinder by hand. That way you don't put so much strain on the pawl tip. I've had to do this several times to with .45ACP rounds in my convertibles. In fact, sometimes I'll rotate the cylinder around with the gate open just to make sure I can do so.
This was my first revolver (have 6 other firearms) and I guess I should have read up on the do and don'ts of revolvers bit more.
 

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Why did the cylinder get stuck? The only times that has happened to me with my Single Ten was when I was using some Remington Golden Bullet ammo and the rim of the casing was too thick or deformed causing the base of the casing to bind when turning the cylinder while loading the gun. I had to remove the cylinder to get the offending round out. I have had that happen several times with Remington Golden Bullet. I never use them in my ST now. Might have happened with Winchester 555 as well.

Did something like that happen?
I shot my new Single Ten for the first time today, and I had a box of Remington Golden Bullets on hand. What terrible ammo. Just as you said, it was jamming the cylinder, or hard to extract the empty cases. I noticed the bullets are loose in the cases, you can spin them. I managed to fire about 300 of them... will never buy again.
 

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I shot my new Single Ten for the first time today, and I had a box of Remington Golden Bullets on hand. What terrible ammo. Just as you said, it was jamming the cylinder, or hard to extract the empty cases. I noticed the bullets are loose in the cases, you can spin them. I managed to fire about 300 of them... will never buy again.
Isn't that some sorry ammo? You are right about the bullets turning in the case and they also wobble from side to side.

I have only had a few rounds that totally jammed up the cylinder causing me to have to remove it, but more than a few that were tight and I could feel them scraping.
I am afraid the OP probably ran into this and tried to force the cylinder around by pulling the hammer.
I had some feed issues in my SR22p with them as well - strangely enough, they work fine in my M&P 15-22.
When they are gone, I won't be buying any more. Federal Bulk 550 do just great in my Single Ten.
 

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I had my Single Ten out for the first time, putting 350 rounds through it. I never had it jammed by the bad ammo as I caught them before closing the gate.

What I did notice when I got home was that after 350 rounds, the very top right corner of the pawl (hand) has worn down at an angle corresponding to the groove angle of the ratchet teeth. When new, the pawl would contact the ratchet face at a sharp corner so I can see how it might wear at some point, but this seems quite fast. The gun still works flawlessly at this point.

Obviously the pawl is made of softer steel than the ratchet. I'm wondering if anyone else has seen this with their Single Ten.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
Well I sent it back...

Sent it to the factory last week. Gunsmith has it now and no updates yet. I'll keep this post updated for reference in case anyone else has this problem.
 

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Great Pics of that Remington ammunition, WvDave. I've shot a lot of Remington Golden Bullet .22's over the years and have always found it to be good. Accuracy through several of my .22's is as good as high end target pistol ammunition in some cases. But I haven't bought any of the lower end, Golden Bullet bulk ammo in the last year or two....I wonder if Remington's QC has gone south for some reason, and if it's just with the .22 lr production line?

I've not had any trouble with any other Remington ammunition, purchased in the last year...though all of it was center fire....45 ACP, 9mm, .30-30 and .300 Savage. A call to Remington, together with your excellent pics might get you some replacement ammunition and at least point out their QC problems. Best Regards, Rod
 

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Great Pics of that Remington ammunition, WvDave. I've shot a lot of Remington Golden Bullet .22's over the years and have always found it to be good. Accuracy through several of my .22's is as good as high end target pistol ammunition in some cases. But I haven't bought any of the lower end, Golden Bullet bulk ammo in the last year or two....I wonder if Remington's QC has gone south for some reason, and if it's just with the .22 lr production line?

I've not had any trouble with any other Remington ammunition, purchased in the last year...though all of it was center fire....45 ACP, 9mm, .30-30 and .300 Savage. A call to Remington, together with your excellent pics might get you some replacement ammunition and at least point out their QC problems. Best Regards, Rod
From very recent experience with my Single Ten, I can confirm that Remington Golden Bullet 22 ammo has become terrible junk. Almost unshootable. Mishapen casings, almost all of the bullets are loose in the casings, rounds that won't seat properly in the cylinder, casings difficult to eject from the cylinder after firing because they expand in odd ways.
Some rounds with light powder that fire with a weak pop.
I gave up and won't shoot the rest of the box of junk.

Yesterday I went to the range with the same gun and a "value box" of Federal Champion 36 gr. rounds. What a difference. I had absolutely no problems while running through more than 400 rounds.
No more Remington "Golden Bullets" for me!
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Got her back today, Notes say:
"Replaced Pawl, repaired cylinder ratchet"

Looks like they ground down the ratchet and replaced the pawl so it rotates all the way.

Very happy with Ruger customer service.
 

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Got her back today, Notes say:
"Replaced Pawl, repaired cylinder ratchet"

Looks like they ground down the ratchet and replaced the pawl so it rotates all the way.

Very happy with Ruger customer service.
Great, glad it's home again. Stay away from Remington Golden Bullet for that gun and if you feel any binding at all as you load the rounds - from any type of ammo, stop and remove the round.

Enjoy your "ten"
 

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I checked, both left and right have the same spacing but I looked at it from the side and the top is a lot closer than the bottom, I can see light under the pin cylinder clearly but not at the top.
The top and bottom difference is as it should be. The top creates the critical headspacing between the case rim and the breechface. The bottom does not.
 
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