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I purchased a new sp-101 3" barrel and new gp-100 4" revolver from impactguns and got them yesterday. When I took the time today to clean both of them, I notice when I looked down the barrels with a light rust visible from the muzzle to the forcing cone end. The rust seems to follow the lines of the rifling.

Is this normal for brand new revolvers? I also noticed that the sp-101 had visible rust around the front sight and front site pin. What should I do? Thanks in advance. The GP100 is stainless steel by the way.
 

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I had a similar situation a few years ago, needless to say not a good thing. Turned out to be red polishing compound. Run a dry patch through and have a good look.
 

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rust ??

I purchased a new sp-101 3" barrel and new gp-100 4" revolver from impactguns and got them yesterday. When I took the time today to clean both of them, I notice when I looked down the barrels with a light rust visible from the muzzle to the forcing cone end. The rust seems to follow the lines of the rifling.

Is this normal for brand new revolvers? I also noticed that the sp-101 had visible rust around the front sight and front site pin. What should I do? Thanks in advance. The GP100 is stainless steel by the way.
I'll bet it's not rust but some stubborn packing grease:)
 

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I thought I had rust in my GP100's barrel when it was a few mo's old but it turned out to be some fouling from jacketed ammo and it cleaned right up.
Could be some fouling from ammo shot at the factory.
 

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Give it a good cleaning and I'm guessing whatever is there will go away nicely. Once you finish a light coat of oil in the bore and chambers.
 

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Give it a good cleaning and I'm guessing whatever is there will go away nicely. Once you finish a light coat of oil in the bore and chambers.
I will do that. I will update this thread if it is actually rust. Thanks guys.
 

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I will be shocked if it is actual rust. As others here said, most likely packing grease or some kind of cleaning residue. Having said that, the barrels in our M-16s when I was in the Army often got rust in them while we were in the field. It was no big deal. You cleaned it and the rust was gone.
 

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Give it a good cleaning and I'm guessing whatever is there will go away nicely. Once you finish a light coat of oil in the bore and chambers.
Terry P,
I am wondering about lubricating my gun (SP101,2.25"). Do I need to lightly coat the bore and chambers every time after cleaning? Given that I go to range twice a month. And do I need to clean it up before shooting?

And how about oiling/lubricating other parts i.e. crane pivot, the point where cylinder meet the crane, crane latch. How often do I need to do it?
 

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Terry P,
I am wondering about lubricating my gun (SP101,2.25"). Do I need to lightly coat the bore and chambers every time after cleaning? You should never leave bare metal exposed to the air, metal is in a way Hygroscopic, it will a-tracked moisture. Iron oxide (rust) is removal of metal, sure, minor small amount may not hurt a lot. but looking at some badly rusted metal clearly shows a loss of metal. Many of the cleaning product we use contain some kind of rust inhibitor, some do not and clearly state to lube after using. Given that I go to range twice a month.
And do I need to clean it up before shooting?
Clean it after shooting why wait ?
And how about oiling/lubricating other parts i.e. crane pivot, the point where cylinder meet the crane, crane latch. How often do I need to do it?
Any metal moving parts should be lightly lubed, Mobil synthetic oil works fine
( or your choice of lube. ) + all metal parts should have a light coat of a rust preventing oil on them. Dry climates need less. Moisture can get under lead left in barrels and also under copper left in barrels. why take a chance. I use an alcohol wipe on the grip if it's slippery after wiping with a silicone cloth. Don't want to have an oily grip.
There are many weapons like yours, but the one you have belongs to you, take care of it. Metal parts that contact each other and move can create ware, I lube all moving parts with a light coat of lubricant, a light film should work. Holstered ccw firearms should be checked for debre and lightly re-oiled once a week, at least check there is lube still there, some lubes will dry out rather quickly and loose efficiency
 

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Graywolf1,

May be I had said not clear enough.What I intend to ask is do I have to clean the oil that was coated in the barrel and chambers (done in the cleaning right after the last shooting session) before next shooting session. I normally clean my gun right away after coming back from the range

For oiling other parts such as crane pivot, etc. I wonder that do I need to oil it every time I clean or I can do it occasionally, may be every 3 months. Thinking that too much oil may not be ok.
 

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Thinking that too much oil may not be ok.
Too much or more than enough is not OK, read what I said, a light film.
Different degrees of lube are needed for different metal to metal applications.
Speed of moving parts, contact tolerances, and heat generated.
For our needs a light coat should be present.
very little to no oil should be in the barrel when shooting, a very light coat as in a bedside
gun wont hurt. ( light coat ) the better your lube the less you need. Cylinders can be dry when shooting and recommended. A light coat in the cylinders for a gun at the ready is OK, but a light coat just to prevent rust, I pull a silicone cloth through the cylinders and call it good.
For oiling other parts such as crane pivot, etc. I wonder that do I need to oil it every time I clean or I can do it occasionally, may be every 3 months. Thinking that too much oil may not be ok.
To much oil is never needed, I would lightly re-lube after cleaning, I think 3 months is stretching it a little. A couple of drops to the trigger group, a drop on each side of the hammer and all the moving parts. What is the problem with a little oil?
It don't have to be dripping.
 
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