The other day I was getting a measurement for a scope ring lapping bar I was going to make when my boss told me that getting my scope perfectly level with my reciever was what I really needed to be worried about. He's not the first person that has told me that either. I'm still trying to figure out why that is so crucial? Here's the way I have it figured in my head.....
If the point of impact is the same on a level or an unlevel scope (center of crosshairs), wouldn't the crosshairs being unlevel only affect the adjustment? (If leaning right, an adjustment up would actually be up and to the right) Is there something I'm missing or is adjustment the only thing affected by the scope being unlevel?
I am not an expert but I would think that the range of elevation adjustment of the scope, the type and caliber of the gun, and the range you need to use it at matter the most...also scope objective size factors in due to to height of scope...
Lots of people with 22s wind up needing elevation added to the rings/rail to get the nominal distance centered in the adjustment range and still be able to get long range sight adjustment...
I lapped added elevation into rings I converted from tip off rail mount to being bolted directly to the receiver on the 1022
IMO...you should try to lap your rings trying your best to get the cross hairs on target at your nominal distance with the cross hairs adjusted to mid point on both windage and elevation...
Check out Ryan Cleckner on youtube...master sniper school instructor has lots of videos on scopes and how and why you should do whatever...
The last thing you want to do IMO is have the windage off center and/or the scope objective higher off the receiver then the eye piece...
Level of pointed down
very slightly to increase elevation range is better...and you should consider scope eye level (center of scope tube) relative to the center of the bore when making any decisions...
Check out Ryan Cleckner on youtube...master sniper school instructor has lots of videos on scopes and how and why you should do whatever...
I set my vertical cross hair to be perpendicular/plumb when holding the rifle in the most comfortable and secure position for off hand shooting...which means when the gun is perfectly straight up/down in a vise the scope vertical cross hair is slightly canted...
If you use the Ryan Cleckner methods including and especially the cheek rest you find that it is very difficult to hold the rifle securely and NOT have the cross hairs be plumb/level...you will not have to move/shuffle/adjust/compensate to get the right hold to be consistently plumb/level...when the combination of scope canting and cheek rest is dialed in it is hard to not be right on...