Ruger Forum banner
1 - 6 of 6 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello. Just traded for a very nice Security Six 6" barrel Bicentennial edition. It was dirty as heck, so I took her apart and cleaned up good, and of course there were some rusty stains under the rubber grips, so I cleaned those up with the rust and cylinder ring cloth and it looks better(hopefully it will stay away!)

But the questions I have pertain to the cylinder ring and cylinder latch. In the IBOK for gp100 it says to polish the cylinder latch areas that are rough, obviously I don't want to change any angles, but it doesn't say what areas of the cylinder latch to polish? So what parts of the cylinder latch are ok to polish, and what media should I be using to polish it?
Also to remove the cylinder ring, I know to go with the grain of the metal, but waht media should I be using with the cylinder? Only reason I am considering doing this is rubbing my finger nail over the cylinder ring I feel a couple tiny burrs, and I would assume this may affect trigger pull!

Also looking at the cylinder latch there are non contact surfaces that are black, I tried cleaning and it will not come off. Is it possible that the cylinder latch was from a blued security six? Timing looks good, and cylinder locks up nice and tight. Just curious is this is a replacement latch?

Thanks
Jim
 

· Retired Moderator & Gunsmith
Joined
·
18,547 Posts
ventibrewdude, Turn lines on cylinders are just part of owning a DA revolver. You can remove the turn line but it will reappear the next time you live fire or dry fire the gun. On a new gun, buffing the angled tip of the cylinder latch (the part that sticks out of the frame) will slow down turn line wear but if there is already a turn line, it's best to just leave it alone. The cylinder dragging on the latch has virtually no affect on trigger pull. It happens in all DA revolvers so it's just a cosmetic issue you have to accept.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
iowegan

Ok. Gotcha. So turn lines I am ok with butt if there are still burrs on the top of the cylinder latch it is ok to remove the burrs? Correct? Also what do you reccoment for this process, I would rather have something very un-abrassive and have to really work at it, than to remove any metal? Also why would some of the surfaces of the cylinder latch be black as opposed to all stainless? I have pics in my gallery..

Thanks
Jim
 

· Retired Moderator & Gunsmith
Joined
·
18,547 Posts
ventibrewdude, I use a muslin buffing wheel with 500 grit compound. This will shine up the part like chrome without removing any significant amount of metal. Avoid files, sand paper, or any other abrasive tools because it will ruin the part.

For stainless Security-Sixes, the cylinder latch is made of stainless steel. For blued models, it's made of conventional "bare" steel. Maybe the previous owner tried to doll it up with some cold blue????
 
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top