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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all, First post here... Anyways, I have a ROA that has three nipples that I just cannot get out. I hadn't even fired it since I got it at a pawn shop, but I left it near a window that was open for three days in a humid summer... Maybe they were seized to start with. I have soaked it in PB blaster for months, used a heat gun, used ez-outs, and even jammed the spike of a spade drill bit into one. I just cannot get them to turn. I do not have a drill press. I sent an email to Clements but they are not taking any ROA work.

Does anyone know of someone who will remove them? I'm at a loss of what to do right now. Thanks.
 

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The former owner may have used Loctite so I would try heating up what's left of the nipples with a propane torch. If that doesn't work, the next step is to drill the center of the nipple with a 11/64" drill bit .... just large enough to remove most of the metal without damaging the threads in the cylinder. You will have to chase the cylinder threads with a 10x28 tap to clean out the threads.

It's too late now but the next time you remove ROA nipples, use a 3/16" quarter inch drive socket on a ratchet handle. This gives you plenty of torque to unscrew the nipple without damaging the hex head.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the quick response. It'll be some time until I try to drill it out without a drill press. Things tend to get messed up when I take shortcuts. I'll just have to keep looking for someone to take this on.

I actually did have a 3/16 socket and had the L-shaped hex wrench. Things stripped anyway. Thanks again.
 

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Kroil Oil will be your ticket to a non-damaging nipple fix. There is a tapered (sear, trigger?) pin found in the all stainless Kahr pistols. I also found out that the tapered pin is cooled (liquid nitrogen?) while the frame is heated. Pin is then installed and left for both parts to come to room temperature essentially locking the two together. Well I wanted to replace plastic parts with metal ones and to get into the insides of the pistol, I had to remove that pin. And yes! I read up on it and was indeed drifting it from the correct side of the pistol. It just didn't want to budge at all. The whole heat one part while cooling the mating part was just not going to work for disassembly. It was then a buddy suggested Kroil oil. For the pin all I needed was a small can of the stuff and carefully applied it to the pin on both sides of the gun. Kroil is a penetrating oil and boy did it do the job. A couple applications during a 24 hour period was all that it took. Drift pin out and a couple nocks and the pin was free and gun disassembled.

For you I'd suggest getting a larger quantity and a Tupperware glass or small bowl. When you put the cylinder in and start to put the Kroil in, do so by putting a little bit into each chamber (ie. nipples facing down). Make sure enough Kroil is in place to keep the nipples submerged and let soak for at least 24 hours. After removing the cylinder, be sure to clean off the Kroil. WD40 works great for this purpose and is what I used for my Kahr pistol. You'll then have to clean the WD40 off the cylinder. All of this is so you don't slip off the nipple with your nipple wrench. Busted knuckles and stripped nipples, not to mention scratched cylinders are to be prevented I'd guess. After getting this fixed, you'll end up finding numerous uses for this wonderful product. Below is the link to get you to the Kroil site. It comes in several different sizes as well as delivery means. Best of luck, Smithy.


 

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Kroil is a very good product. We used a lot of it in the commercial printing factory. I found a little 4" Crescent wrench laying out in the grass and it was all rusted together in the moving jaw and adjusting screw. None of the moving parts would move. I took it into work and we soaked shop towels with Kroil and kept it wrapped and wet for 3 or 4 days. It started to have some movement. I kept working it and soaking and that little adjustable wrench is hanging on my peg board in the shop and it works fine. not the shiniest but works fine. It made me a believer.
Have a great day.
Jim
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Sorry, guys. Things got busy here. Septic not working, put up fencing for pigs, pigs got out, fixed fencing/got pigs back, backhoe not working, simple fixes on septic didn't fix, fixed backhoe only to find out more was wrong, now digging septic up by hand...

Anyways, I was able to send my cylinder to my old gunsmith from before I moved states. They charged me $50 for the three nipples including return shipping. Very fast turnaround time too. So now my ROA is all good to go and I just need to whittle down the project list.

To throw a plug for my gunsmith... this wasn't an advertised price so if you get in touch with him it may be different. He has always been reasonable. It is Scott J. from Firearm Finishing Inc in Spokane, WA.

Thanks for all the advice.
 

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Glad you got everything in order with it. I don't know what you already know about black powder revolvers, so please forgive me if I'm telling you something you already know. Make sure to put anti-seize compund on the nipple threads before you screw them in. It'll make your life a LOT easier when you do maintenance next. This stuff is what I use, and the nipples come off with no problem every time.
 
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