[Harpman]

On the range today my 10/22 was firing fine but then fired two automatically. I reloaded the mag and it fired fine and I could not recreate the fault, next mag a friend fired and he had a short burst of probably two shots then normal. The next mags I tried slow and rapid fire and it was ok. This is my first semi auto, has any member of the forum any ideas, the rifle is second hand but well looked after. It's a carbine with a stainless steal barrel.

Thanks in antisipation

 

[Hans13]

The only think I can think of is that maybe the previous owner tried to slick up the trigger and made it too light. I'd see if I could just send the trigger group to Ruger and see if it has been messed with. Good luck!

 

[BlkHawk73]

Rather than going with the knee-jerk reaction and send it back (they'd want the entire gun btw), I'd take the trigger assembly apart and see what you can visually see on the parts. Do you know the history of the gun and any work it's had? SOOOO many problems can be taken care of at the home and not necessitate returning it to Ruger. Seeing as your location is listed as England, returns can be a bit more difficult and time consuming than us here.
Take it apart and let us know then.

 

[dangrd]

My used 10/22 had similar problems when I purchased it. When I posted photos of the trigger and hammer group on another forum I was told that parts were not factory and I don't recall which aftermarket they were but after returning all the trigger parts to factory parts (including springs), I had ZERO problems.

 

[ZommyGun]

IMO you should first verify it was not your finger prior to taking it apart chasing a problem that may or may not exist…

The first thing to analyze is the trigger pull weight…

If you have a device to measure the trigger pull weight then you should do that first…if not…weigh the gun as it is and determine whether or not the weight of the gun itself is enough to pull the trigger…if it isn’t…the trigger is probably all factory as the trigger pull weight from the factory is in the 6LB range…if the gun weight alone will pull the trigger then remove the barreled action and weigh it…and do the same test…try to determine the approximate amount of weight it takes to pull the trigger…

The second thing to look at is the trigger reset function…

In dry fire mode…use your thumb behind the trigger guard to pinch the trigger pulling it as far back as it will travel…hold it there…extremely slowly release the trigger until it resets…don’t let it release any further…then carefully pinch until it releases the hammer…repeat this over and over again and see just how easy (or difficult) it is to fire the gun twice so fast it seemed like you only pulled the trigger once…

It sounds to me as tho you are not used to the trigger…as mentioned above it might be a light pull…regardless of whether it is or isn’t think about this…when you made a conscious effort to make it malfunction it wouldn’t…and I believe the likely reason is you were focused on your trigger finger at that time…whereas when it seemingly went off twice with a single pull you were focused on the target and not your finger…in other words I think the most likely occurrence was that you released the trigger just enough to allow it to reset...but not take the pressure completely off and without realizing it pulled it twice…

On the other hand…if you can get it to release the hammer twice without letting the trigger reset you probably do have a malfunctioning part in the trigger group…

The other way it could fire twice on a single trigger pull would be a “slam-fire” where the firing pin is stuck forward in the bolt and didn’t require the trigger to release the hammer in order to fire…when the bolt closes with the hammer cocked back if the firing pin is fully forward it strikes the primer and bang…if it was simply "sticky" and not "frozen" the second strike might push it back to normal position and it might not re-occur consistently...

Therefore the next step is to remove the bolt like you were going to clean the gun and make sure the firing pin has no problems…the firing pin is spring loaded and if it was gummed up or had a bent pin it is possible it could intermittently get stuck in the firing position…the little spring that retracts the firing pin when the hammer is not forcing it forward is a pretty weak little spring...

Here is the factory video on taking the bolt out… Ruger 10/22 Rifle Cleaning - YouTube

A good video on trigger dis-assembly and reassembly… Ruger 10/22 Trigger Shim Kit Installation Instructions - YouTube

 

[computerdynamics]

Since it's a used gun maybe it would be easier to just get the factory replacement trigger group from Midway USA for $50. and be done with it and have all new parts. All suggestions require taking down the trigger group which is not difficult if you are familiar with it's workings. If you aren't, spend the cash and have it like new again. People want to tear your head off for dissasembling it to clean it in one thread and others want you to play gunsmith on an unsafe gun? If it will multiple fire it can go off if jarred if the safety isn't on.
Be careful, be safe,
Tony
PS if it's a bent firing pin as suggested below you should be able to tell by pushing it back and forth?

 

[TMB]

Since it's a used gun maybe it would be easier to just get the factory replacement trigger group from Midway USA for $50. and be done with it and have all new parts. All suggestions require taking down the trigger group which is not difficult if you are familiar with it's workings. If you aren't, spend the cash and have it like new again. People want to tear your head off for dissasembling it to clean it in one thread and others want you to play gunsmith on an unsafe gun? If it will multiple fire it can go off if jarred if the safety isn't on.
Be careful, be safe,
Tony
PS if it's a bent firing pin as suggested below you should be able to tell by pushing it back and forth?

+1

 

[Harpman]

Thank you very much for your collective advice/wisdom. I wil
Try the experiments and give it a good clean and look at the trigger
And get back to you. I will do it safely.
Regards
Harpman

 

[Harpman]

I have had a quick look and a crude measurement with my fishing scales. The rifle is 4 1/2 lbs and the trigger pull is about 2 lbs and the weight of the gun will pull the trigger. Do I readjust the trigger to a heavier pull or be aware as Zommygun suggests of the lightness of the pull when on the range. I only fire the gun on a controlled range at targets. It has Williams peep sights and is very accurate..
Regards Harpman

 

[computerdynamics]

I have had a quick look and a crude measurement with my fishing scales. The rifle is 4 1/2 lbs and the trigger pull is about 2 lbs and the weight of the gun will pull the trigger. Do I readjust the trigger to a heavier pull or be aware as Zommygun suggests of the lightness of the pull when on the range. I only fire the gun on a controlled range at targets. It has Williams peep sights and is very accurate..
Regards Harpman

I don't want to give bad or dangerous advice! My trigger pull is right around 2 1/2Lbs. and very sensitive. I have no pretravel and almost no over travel, in other words, if I touch the trigger a little it goes bang fast! I'm allowed to do rapid fire where I shoot and can empty a BX-25 in just seconds. In your case with a "wait time" between shots It seems scary? I defer to the more knowledgeable members on this one. I don't want anyone hurt because of poor advice!!! I know my 10/22 like the back of my hand am ready for the superlight trigger and am on the safety immediatley after firing. Iowegan is the master of masters as far as I'm concerned. Maybe a PM so he reads through the thread and can give the best advice? You can't just un "pound" the trigger pull if it's been stoned down? what do you guys think?
Please use caution until you get a good solid answer!
Take care,
Tony

 

[Iowegan]

There is a device in the trigger group called a "disconnector" (part #B-25). The purpose of this part is to disconnect the trigger and prevent the gun from going "full auto". The trigger plunger spring (part#B-40) and the disconnector spring (part# B-24) are essential for proper disconnector function although many people either clip a few coils or replace them with lighter springs to reduce trigger pull. I would start by replacing these two springs with factory originals.

If the sear was altered beyond limits, it could slip and allow a full auto condition, even if the disconnector is working properly. This would require replacing either the hammer (part# B-17A) or the sear (part#B-23) or possibly both.

Operating a 10/22 with a know condition like this is an accident looking for a place to happen. I would highly recommend getting it repaired before you fire it again.

 

[ZommyGun]

2lb pull weight is way to touchy for casual use by people not used to auto-loading guns...especially if you let others use it...

Now that you know where the problem is...it not an adjustment...it is the replacing of parts that have been modified...

The video I linked you to above has a lot of information...

My trigger pull is between 3 and 4 lbs and I don't want it any lighter at this time...I am not a weapons master...on the other hand I have fired many thousands of rounds from auto loading rifles and pistols in the last 40 years...people who are intense about making the smallest possible hole in a sheet of paper are the ones who need super-light trigger pulls...

More along that line...NRA match rifles cannot have too light or too sensitive of a trigger pull for obvious safety reasons and that is for competition among people striving for supreme accuracy...

In addition to the other tests already outlined for you...in dry-fire mode...see of jarring the rifle will release the hammer...if it will...you definitely need new parts...

The trigger pull is normally not adjustable unless you have something special like a Kidd Trigger...

However, you can get parts with adjustable trigger travel...and you can get the trigger pull to be in the 3-4lb range or close to factory around 6 depending on which parts you buy...

Don't know what your budget is but I would get this Hammer and Sear...

Power Custom Pre-Travel Adjustable Hammer Sear Ruger 10/22

I would not use the springs that come with it...

I would also get this trigger...

Volquartsen Target Rifle Trigger Ruger 10/22 10/22 Mag Black

Those products will give you 50 to 100% stiffer pull and allow you to adjust out the slop in the travel...

I would also get all new factory original springs AND an original factory Hammer...

Then you can start out with a much better than stock trigger but with factory trigger pull weight and if you choose to lighten the trigger pull install the Power Custom Target Hammer to get in the 3-4lb range if you are not happy with the stiff factory pull...

The reason why people modify the factory trigger is because it is so sloppy and so stiff it makes it difficult to not pull the gun off target when you pull the trigger...

 

[Harpman]

Thanks for all the excellent advice. I will try and source these parts in the UK and get back
Regards Harpman