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Discussion Starter #1
I have noticed that the GP100/SRH style sights wiggle with some play in the rear sight body. It is like the pin holding the sight is sized fine for the frame but too small for the sight.

One way would be to enlargen the frame holes and use a larger pin, but I would feel more comfortable eliminating the sideway gap completely. Is there any way to shim it up for a tighter fit?

I have encountered this in several GP100, SRH and very much in the Dan Wessons that use the same sight models.
 

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There is a small spring under the rear sight that pushes the sight up and stabilizes it at center to some degree.
It is possible to wiggle it slightly left and right, but it is inclined to be centered.

On my Single Ten the pin was loose and slipped out sideways so I gooped it up with blue Loctite and pushed it back into place.
No more problems.
 

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They are supposed to have a little play to them. It generally does not effect accuracy to any great degree. My experience has been that while the rear sight can be wiggled it will find the spot it likes to ride and stay there...

The most common problem is with the rear sight is the tennon pin has a way of working it's way out of the frame and needs to be pushed back in. A very slight bend to the pin generally solves that problem.

If the wiggle bothers you, you might look into getting an aftermarket rear sight, this one has opposing screws for both windage and elevation.

+ Bowen Classic Arms + Parts Store
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I took some photos that explain it better. Red arrows show where the hole sight body/tang can wiggle for a gap.
To the left the sight is pushed to the left, to the right it is pushed to the right.



Photos show a Dan Wesson 15-2, but the principle is the same for GP100/SRH.
I have a SRH with a Bowen Rough Country showing the same kind of play, though in lesser extent. I believe the small countersink on the SRH that centers the springs help some, but when shooting long range for accuracy (+200 yards) every little thing counts and I would like to find a way to eliminate the wiggle completely.
 

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I've got a suggestion for you that I used on my 44 Ruger Alaskan and yes; I am not a fan of the standard aluminum Ruger adjustable sight assembly. First thing is the assembly is there in massive fashion compared to the ever so slight blade that you are supposed to sight through. That is why I switched to an all steel, all sight picture assembly in the Bowen Rough Country Sight. + Bowen Classic Arms + Parts Store
As stated this sight is all steel and fills the Ruger milled channel to a tee. It is also made much thicker so your starting point is to bottom out the sight into the base of the milled channel. This sight does not rely upon springs to hold it one way or the other, but rather it rely's upon metal to metal contact. The rear all blade portion of the sight is held captive by two screws on either side so the position of the blade is basically clamped into place. Same with the elevation. One spring of the Ruger sight is given up in place of a set screw that pushes against the elevation screw. I got mine sighted in and all the screws loctited and it's like having a fixed sighted gun made specifically for you and your loads. Definitely worth a look. Smithy.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thank you for your input, but like I wrote, I already have a Bowen Rough Country sight.
This is about getting the tang gaps to the frame slot fixed, no matter which sight brand.
 

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There is supposed to be a bit of clearance between the rear sight and frame housing so the sight is able to move freely within it's adjustment range. It's a necessary tolerance, without it the rear sight would bind.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I can understand that. There is however a large difference between clearance and wobble. Having rear sights that can change the impact by simply nudging them are faulty and need fixing. I will try to cut some shim stock and tighten things up.
 
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