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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all,

After a partial disassembly of a new model Single Six - did not take apart trigger unit springs etc - my single six latch will not recess when the hammer is cocked, hence the cylinder will not rotate.

The latch does recess when the gate is opened.

It will depress and pop back up when I push it down.

Everything else works. Ruger said I probably bent the spring slightly out of shape, and so would have to replaced. But the tech wasn't certain.

thoughts anyone?

Thanks, Joe
 

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I'm not the expert here but just to start things off :

Did you remove the grip frame from the cylinder frame during your "partial disassembly" ?

Someone will be along with diagnosis I'm sure.

Welcome to the forum
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
hi all

Hi all,

thanks for the welcome.

I did not remove the hammer plunger.

1) I removed the mainspring and unclipped the trigger spring.
2) I removed the five screws and separated the two parts.
(the basic reason was to install a lighter mainspring, which was installed.)
3) When I reinstalled the trigger guard assembly - which I never took apart - I made sure the pawl spring/plunger and latch spring/plunger were in place.
4) Everything works, except the latch doesn't withdraw when the hammer is cocked, hence the cylinder will not turn. The hammer works correctly.

Hope I explained this clearly. Having assembled/disassembled it a half dozen times, I will admit the latch spring is no longer immaculate. Yet that is inside the trigger assembly, while its the plunger that seems not to be doing what it should.

Thanks for any thoughts. I've ordered a new spring, tho I have to figure out how to attach it the latch plunger.

Joe
 

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I would take it back apart and have the parts diagram in front of me, I use the one on ruger .comment blown up on my computer screen. I can thinkers of a couple of things that can lockup your gun. Check to make sure that the trigger return spring is tucked in the recession in the trigger, also compare the main spring hammer strut isn't in upside-down. Also check that the indexing plunger is installed correctly (that's the little one that gets smashed, pinched, or bent when trying to hold everything in the right position while putting it back together ).
With a little time and a lot of cussing you'll have it figured out.
Good luck
 

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Have you looked at any of the youtube Ruger single action disassembly videos? These may be helpful, they were for me. These are pretty simple mechanisms but they only go together one way.

Be patient..your problem will be solved here.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
yes, its the hammer plunger, but...

Finally figured out that its the hammer plunger which is the problem, only thing is I never took apart the hammer assembly. So if its not working, and I never touched it, it must have broken somehow.

Anyone have instructions on how to replace it?
 

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You must remove the hammer. The "Hammer Plunger" is held in place with a pin. Drive out the pin and remove the plunger and spring. I don't know what part is actually defective so there isn't much else I can say. The plunger has an indent which is captured by the pin.

Is this a new gun ? If so return it to Ruger. Did You just get this piece ? Have you fired it ? The part may have been on it's way to become defective and your taking the gun apart was the "last straw".

Sorry don't have a clue
 

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Joe,

Your hammer plunger is probably just stuck in the up position. Before taking anything apart again, cock the hammer and flood some lubricant at the base of the hammer. Hold the gun upside down and cycle the hammer several times. If that doesn't work, remove grip frame.

Once you remove the grip frame, just pull the hammer back and all the way down, then depress the hammer plunger in the base of the hammer with a small tipped screwdriver to make sure it goes up and down.

If not, it might be bent; remove hammer by using MY SHORTCUT FOR REMOVING JUST HAMMER:

Recognize, you do not need to hassle with the PESKY LOADING GATE SPRING, pull the trigger pin, OR trigger/transfer bar JUST to remove the hammer and pawl. Once you remove the grip frame, the hammer pin is the only other part you need to remove. After that, just pull the hammer back and all the way down, then depress the hammer plunger in the base of the hammer with a small tipped screwdriver to clear the trigger extension where the transfer bar connects to it. Let the hammer & pawl fall out. Reinstall the hammer and pawl back in the same way they came out. Push the plunger in by pushing it against the trigger extension just like you did with the tip of the small screwdriver, and the hammer will slip by the trigger extension.

Check if plunger has bent or cracked, this is not uncommon on new models. The little pin retaining it is a slip fit and just pushed out. If it's bad, call Ruger parts and they'll send you one for free.

FYI:
Factory Videos: Good New Model Ruger disassembly:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UfOXBa8K8Ow

NM Reassembly (shows hammer plunger assembly too):

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3zEKDqwkgEs&feature=related
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
hammer plunger and trigger return

Thanks all for the great help. Yes, it turned out the hammer plunger was broken, the end had snapped off - probably my fault at some point when I took the gun apart for a new trigger spring - which I did not put it as is shaped differently from the factory spring, which is square, and the replacement end is round. Finally got it all back together, but now have a question.

What should the trigger return be like? Upon release it seems a bit "loose" for lack of a better term. The return is not "crisp" like the pull. They all like that, or is it the fault of my reassembly? Again, the ORIGINAL spring was put back in.

thanks
 

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Sometimes the hammer plunger is caught mid cycle when reinstalled which can break the pin if hammer is forcibly cocked after reassembly. It's best with the cyl out, to push down on the cyl latch with your thumb and "finesse" the first hammer cock after reassembly.

The trigger spring should snap the trigger forward sharply. Did you replace the trigger spring retaining pin? Did you hook up both ends of the spring on the rear pin?

Which end of the aftermarket spring is rounded instead of square? Most aftermarket springs are shaped a bit different and it doesn't matter, they work fine. You can also replace them w/o taking off the grip frame.

Here's another short cut: Trigger spring replacement with grip frame installed

It takes a little patience and persistence but saves a lot of time.

Cock the hammer and install a pin punch, nail or paper clip in the spring strut hole below the mainspring seat just like for disassembly of the grip frame in the manual. De-cock hammer.

Unhook both legs of the trigger return spring.

Push out the spring retaining pin.

Grasp the spring with needle nose pliers and finesse it back, down and to the side while flexing one of the legs around the mainspring so both legs are on the same side. Remove out the side of the grip frame.

Install in reverse.

Cock hammer, remove spring retention device and drop hammer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
two clicks on return of trigger?

Thanks Hondo. Let me be a bit more specific. The trigger pull snaps the cocked hammer forward fine, but when I release my finger so the trigger returns there are two distinct clicks, one half-way thru the return and one as the trigger comes to rest.

The original square ended trigger spring is installed, as the rounded end after-market spring just wouldn't work right. or so it seemed. Both ends of the original spring are hooked in, as in the retaining pin. The trigger return just seems to "sound" less distinct than before. A drop of oil thru the cutout helped to.

On the other hand, it may all be in my mind as it shoots fine.

Any suggestion on how to change the main spring without pulling it all apart?


Joe
 

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With my SS, 2BH's, and SBH, after pinning the mainspring, I can work the spring and strut out sideways. It helps to use the temporary pin to "lift" (further compress) the mainspring a bit to clear the spring seat. Easy way to change the trigger return spring too.
 
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