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Ironhat
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287 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I was knocking down my New Single Six, replacing the hammer and trigger springs, and got to thinking that it was the perfect time to do a 'fluff 'n buff' to slick up the action. OK, actually, I was trying to button it back up and couldn't get the loading gate to open when I realized that the trigger was going to have to come out in order to set the pawl plunger in place. That's really when I 'decided' to slick it up.:D Anyway, I gave the trigger pivot pin a couple of taps with a plastic hammer against a brass punch and it didn't budge like the hammer pin did - easily, that is. My question is, is there anything other than friction holding that pin in place - shouldn't be. Just being safe here. Don't need one of those, "Oh spit", moments. :( I'm becoming interested in revolvers now, after some time building rifles so I hope to be hanging out with those in the know!
TIA,
Chiz
 

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Forum Founder
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3,639 Posts
Welcome aboard. Glad you found us. We have a lot of very knowledgeable people here, so I'm sure someone can help you. Make yourself at home and enjoy the Board. :D
 

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Retired Moderator & Gunsmith
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16,496 Posts
ironhat, The trigger pivot pin has three functions, one of which is to retain the loading gate spring. The loading gate spring also has a second function and that is to retain the trigger pivot pin.

The pivot pin has a slot cut where the flat loading gate spring latches it in place. If you want to take the trigger pivot pin out, you must first remove the grip frame. Working on the gun with the belly up, push down on the loading gate latch spring while pushing the trigger pivot pin out slightly to where it starts to protrude from the "loading gate" side of the gun. Once the pin has moved far enough where the spring is no longer retaining the trigger pin, you can tap it out lightly with a punch. The trigger and cylinder latch will then come out. Make sure you reassemble it exactly in reverse and don't forget to hook the transfer bar into the trigger extension.
 

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Ironhat
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287 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the post back Iowegen. For some reason I didn't get a notification about your post so I just got it. I got the thing buttoned up and functioning except for the long screw to the left of the hammer. I thought that the unthreaded part at the fron kf the screw rode in the groove in the hammer pin but it sounds like you're saying that the pin goes the other way. I'll have to search a schematic again but, if I recall correctly, it wasn't very clear with regard to the screws - ahh, just checked Numrich and it looks like I have it in backwards. I'm still not sure that will have anything to do with the screw issue, though.

Thanks again for the post,
Chiz
 

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Retired Moderator & Gunsmith
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16,496 Posts
ironhat, two different pins. The hammer pivot pin has a notch where the long screw seats to keep the pin from backing out. The notch end of the hammer pivot pin needs to be on the side opposite the loading gate and the long screw also has to be on the same side.
 
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