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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi folks
I need your help
Is this a 1974
And then where can I get a cylinder of either cal.
Any other info you folks know about ths gun please let me know
Thank you
m
 

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TO GET A CYLINDER OF PROPER SIZE:

You can purchase a used Mag cylinder usually around $75 more or less, on the forums, ebay, Gunbroker, etc. In 30 years I have never installed one or heard of one that did not function and "time" correctly. They are assembly line produced to a common plus or minus tolerance. The exception and only important issue is that it has enough overall length for your frame at the front hub which is fit and sized to each individual frame window. If too long you can dress it down and is simple to 'fit' with a little stoning, usually under .005", that's not a lot. To have a gunsmith do it would be a minimal charge if you're more comfortable doing it that way.

You should take an overall length measurement of your LR cyl with a dial caliper in .001 of an inch and seek one the same length or longer (1st photo). A cyl with a gap as shown at the bottom arrow, in the 2nd photo below: will rub on the end of the barrel at the top arrow because it will move back and forth in the gun called "cylinder end shake" in gunsmith terms.

Cylinders will more likely swap with similar vintage parts:

Overall cyl length is the only most common issue. I have found timing to be very, very seldom an issue in 30 years of working with Rugers.

Photo courtesy of “rugerguy"


Generally if overall length is correct, barrel to cyl gap will be within tolerance:



If it fits in the frame, check for too much for and aft end play ("clylinder end shake"). If nice and snug, check for free rotation and check for a .004" to .007" bar/cyl gap. Cycle the action to confirm all chambers lock u at full cock. And you're safe to go.

One solution for cyls that are too short is a tig welded bead and then filed to fit frame. The other two are drilling out the hub, turning and press fitting a longer one, or drilling out and installing a Colt cyl pin bushing. The advantage of the Colt bushings is that you can use the cyl in more than one gun by having cyl bushings that fit each frame.

RugerForum.com ? View topic - Is welding stainless possible?

Photo by NitroAcres


Note: Magnum 22s are expensive, but the mag cyl will also shoot 22 Winchester Rim Fire ammo which is a bit cheaper with similar performance.

Shims: free shipping, TriggerShims Brand Shim Kits

Fitting cyl or cyl bushing to frame:

This normally done in a lathe but we don't all have that luxury.
1st check bushing length end to end at 4 places around it to be sure it's square when you start. If not, square up the offending area.

To file bushing, clamp in vise with the end to be fitted pointing up and level using a level. Coat with black magic marker. Use a medium cutting flat file wide enough to cover the end of the bushing. Use in a draw filing position, parallel to the vise and workbench with one hand on each end of file. Push it away and back towards you concentrating on "feeling" the file surface staying flat on the bushing surface as you 'draw file' away from you then back towards you; back and forth. Check the black ink often to observe if it's being removed evenly. Re-coat with ink and keep going. Check bushing length again in 4 places to be sure it's remaining square. Put in cyl and check in gun before you think you've taken off enough, just in case measurements might be a little off. Clean file every few strokes so you don't get any galling or gouging. When done you can smooth up file marks with 600 grit paper wrapped around the flat file using same draw filing technique.


WHICH CYL WILL WORK:
NM 22 LR cylinders are not all the same. Early NM cylinders are the same as OM cyls.
You need to date your gun or provide a serial # and we can identify when it was made.

Old Model and early NM 22 LR Cylinders look like the one on the left with the firing pin groove.
Post c. 1975-1976 New model 22 LR cylinders look like the one on the right, no firing pin groove. Either is correct for NMs depending on the vintage.



RATCHET BOSS DIAMETER CHANGE NM:
Fairly recently and coinciding with single ten introduction post 2010, there was a change to a smaller ratchet boss diam. (same size as the .32 Mag cylinders have had since their introduction in 1984). Personally in all my testing I have found the two different ratchet boss sizes to be interchangeable. But I can't guarantee it in every case.
Late NM .22s have a ratchet diameter of .560” and all the rest of the NMs and all OMs have the large diameter ratchet of .622".
The only things to be concerned with are the OAL of the cyl and the ratchet boss size. Just looking for a NM cyl will not guarantee one that will work.

All the .32s have a ratchet diameter of .560” and the newest .22 I own is a fixed sight, 4 5/8”, #268-03410 from 1995, NR4F model 0645 roll marked Ruger Single-Six .22 CAL. It still has the large diameter ratchet of .622



Old Model Cylinders look like this:


Post c. 1975-1976 New model 22 LR cylinders look like the one on the right, no firing pin groove, BUT do not have shoulders in the chambers.
.22 Mag cylinders can be fluted (Old and early New Models) or non-fluted and marked .22 Mag (New Models only). They always have shoulders in the chambers.

All of the Old Model Super Single-Sixes had fluted 22 and 22 Mag cylinders. The non-fluted Mag cylinders started for the New Models in 1975 for the Blue guns and in 1976-1977 for the Stainless Steel guns. The elimination of the firing pin groove in the 22 LR cylinder roughly coincides with the introduction of the non fluted Mag cylinders but there are transition guns with both old model cylinders or an old type LR cyl. with the new non-fluted type Mag cylinder. The blue guns switched to the new type cylinders around 64-15000 to 64-17xxx c. 1975 or so before the 1976 Liberty marking and the stainless guns switched about 64-70000 c.1977, after the Liberty marked guns.

Jim
 

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Easiest way to get it done right is to contact Ruger and determine if they will fit a new cylinder for you. Since it's a New Model, chances are good that they will.

If you care to spend the money, they can do both the .22LR and .22 Magnum cylinders.

:)
 

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Currently Ruger gets $130 for a new cylinder plus fitting, including return shipping;o 2 cyls will be a little less, than tack on having your dealer ship the gun to them; about $35. So in the $265 range total cost.

And you'll have the gun back in under 14 days.
 

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I have one of the Story cylinders - bought from Midway a few weeks ago. It ran $120 thereabouts. It's a magnum cylinder - and they have fit well for everyone but me! It's an 8-rd version - it fits the cylinder window perfectly and the B/C gap is a little large but fine. But, it does not time correctly on my 1984-vintage Single-Six. Interestingly, six of the eight chambers line up perfectly - but two are off too much to be safe. I've decided to keep it anyway since I'm on the lookout for another Single-Six.

That said, they're fairly reasonable, hold two more rounds, and have worked fine for the majority of people who've bought them. Just something for you to consider ...
 

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I have one of the Story cylinders - bought from Midway a few weeks ago. It ran $120 thereabouts. It's a magnum cylinder - and they have fit well for everyone but me! It's an 8-rd version - it fits the cylinder window perfectly and the B/C gap is a little large but fine. But, it does not time correctly on my 1984-vintage Single-Six. Interestingly, six of the eight chambers line up perfectly - but two are off too much to be safe. I've decided to keep it anyway since I'm on the lookout for another Single-Six.

That said, they're fairly reasonable, hold two more rounds, and have worked fine for the majority of people who've bought them. Just something for you to consider ...
Did you happen to contact Brownells or Story about the misfit?

How did you determine the misalignment for the two chambers, did the cyl advance too far and jump the cyl notch passed the cyl latch?

Or did you use a range rod?

Thx,
Jim
 

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Jim - I have used a makeshift range rod - an old S&W cleaning rod; and small flashlight shining down the barrel technique. The two chambers in question lock into the cylinder notch just fine – but they lock out of alignment. I am guessing the eight chambers are probably cut perfectly – but only six of the eight notches are cut in the correct location.

Even with my so-so vision – given the relatively short barrel of the SSix - it's fairly easy to see which chambers are aligned and which aren't with a small flashlight. Both the range rod and the flashlight technique confirm the same two chambers/charge holes are out of alignment.

I know Midway will take it back – and it is not damaged – but just to inertia of dealing with the return process has held me back ... :(

Others have had a good success rate with the cylinders though – so it may still be an option for the OP.
 

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That's what I thought. Your hand is too long. For an 8 shot cyl the cyl only needs to be rotated 45 degrees, not 60 degrees like a 6 shot. Take a slight bit off the lower tooth of the hand (pawl). There is variance in the cyl rachet teeth dimensions of all cyls.

Your hand is holding the cyl too tight against the cyl notch, it needs a little play so the barrel forcing cone can do its job of allowing the bullet to ctr the chamber as it comes out of the throat.

The hand will still work properly with your factory cyl.

OR you can just slightly slim down the bottom surface of the two ratchet teeth where the hand contacts them, for the two chambers.
 

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That's what I thought. Your hand is too long. For an 8 shot cyl the cyl only needs to be rotated 45 degrees, not 60 degrees like a 6 shot. Take a slight bit off the lower tooth of the hand (pawl). There is variance in the cyl rachet teeth dimensions of all cyls.

Your hand is holding the cyl too tight against the cyl notch, it needs a little play so the barrel forcing cone can do its job of allowing the bullet to ctr the chamber as it comes out of the throat.

The hand will still work properly with your factory cyl.

OR you can just slightly slim down the bottom surface of the two ratchet teeth where the hand contacts them, for the two chambers.
Great advice Sir - thank you very much!! You, and Wave, and others make this such a great forum!! I just wish I had the resources to pick up more Ruger revolvers!! OK, I won't beat around the bush, resources in my case means money – I am on a fixed income ... :(
 

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You're very welcome.

And I understand the fixed income as well. I had to sell one Ruger to make my last new gun purchase. The last for Rugers I bought over the past year and a half have all been used, some well used!

But they've become project guns with opportunities to restore and/or make changes to them. It's been as much fun as shooting them and keeps me off the range more. So I don't have to reload as much or buy components as often to reload.
 
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